MV8

Caps don't need special sealing. Older models have no bellows; just a small hole in the cap. It sounds like the glycol fluid is boiling from moisture content. The fluid should be fully changed every season for racing (calipers inverted to drain if necessary). The fluid should meet DOT4 for a higher dry (and wet) boiling point. There are special glycol racing fluids (typically 550f) that exceed silicone DOT5 boiling point. DOT5 can result in a spongy pedal at high temps but is otherwise ideal for non-racing applications. The difference between wet and dry boiling point can be over 100f.

I found some pics of the titan roller barrel tps arrangement. It may sound silly, but you could provide some thermal isolation with scotch tape over the tip and around the shank of the stem and shoulder of the tps body. Much less conductive than brass. You could do the same for the mating surface of the tps. If you'd like something fancier, a 0.0625" shim of noryl would do. A 3d printed key washer to rotate with the roller and a matching body shim would work and bring the tps out a 1/2 inch or so but that's a lot more trouble.

Lovely work. Did you also fab the silencer or just bring the bits together? I guess straight through perforated tube and some packing? I guess the upright was not expensive enough to consider repair. Looks like it was too tight on a shim that should ideally be longer to completely fill the gap.

If only replacing the clutch with no other immediate changes to power output, replace what you have with the same thing. It may need just the discs. They can determine what is installed based on the existing part numbers. The brand is Tilton. For a good drive-ability compromise with enough capacity for a 5psi system, I would look for a sprung hub, marcel spring if available, ceramic puck clutch disc with a diaphragm pressure plate on a standard weight or slightly lightened steel flywheel. Hub-Configuration-and-Disc-Pack-Part-System.pdf

If you want to keep the existing engine but fit carbs, the actual compression ratio needs to be determined along with measurement of the existing head gasket thickness then raised with an appropriate head gasket and/or piston change. I expect that like the pistons, the cams are specific, custom grinds for the turbo and may need replacement also, plus the crank pulley appears to be undersized, which would slow the water pump (and alternator) for less parasitic loss but making cooling less efficient. I'd be surprised to find an open diff with so much spent on power production. I spy two fuel tanks. I guess the small one is e85.

Hi Jim, I assume this is your car: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/caterham-super-seven-3/ "The seller notes the current Tilton OT-II 7.25 twin plate clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced." There are many questions to be answered just to replace the clutch with the right assembly. If it cannot be driven conservatively without clutch slippage, and the seller does not have the documentation for the existing clutch the engine and trans will need to come out to determine what needs to be ordered. This is not like a normal, daily driver clutch. If it were my car, I'd limit the boost to about 5 psi, fit a good normal clutch, remove the intercooler, extra radiator, associated plumbing, fit a lower gph fuel pump if it is excessive, cut the leaf spring pads off the axle, and a standard size crank pulley to drive the water pump and alternator at normal ratios to aid cooling and charging. Keep the haltech efi and distributorless ign. Easier just to revert to a standard crossflow with dcoe40s and sell the rest. This may be setup to run of e85 exclusively. Plenty of zetec efi cats out there you could probably trade for once the clutch is replaced.

Thanks for sharing the pics. The issue is the neck of the banjo is much too short compared to the replacement MK4 flex line. The ones I've seen offered don't have any bend either. You could fit standard, replacement MK4 hoses or keep the universal hoses and replace the caliper mounting bolt with a socket cap screw and appropriate od and id, thick washer (versus a typical socket cap screw washer). Universal banjos can be found with a longer neck but usually do not have a square shoulder to prevent rotation, needing a clamp to the caliper near the banjo. It's hard to tell from the pics but if you could bend it a bit down and inboard fully clamped at the banjo as I described, it may clear the original hardware.

I've used moth balls but they don't last very long.

This is not a race and that is no cat, nor does it claim to be. It is far too easy to judge builds that started with a pre-internet knowlege base plan; especially when the design goals do not mirror our own. I would not build the same car today that I would have in the 80s, but I would appreciate that build all the same.

GTI, sometimes replacement hoses with metal sections of steel tubing are slightly bent. Assuming the hose is mounted the right way round with the lip around the edge of the caliper body, fully tighten the caliper to the upright and the banjo to spec, then tap the metal crimp sleeve with a hammer handle a few times so it just touches the caliper body below the caliper mounting bolt.

Some originals Sevens were fiat twin cam powered: https://www.classicandsportscar.com/features/your-classic-lotus-seven-fiat-twin-cam

That's why I mentioned "works properly" because a vent line with fuel in it doesn't vent. It will push the fuel out to the ground if the delta is great enough. The loops are essentially the same as a P trap on a sink preventing vapors from escaping the septic tank. The tank must vent out for thermal expansion and in to allow fuel to leave the tank to reach the engine. The details of actual use and conditions will determine the balance and how effective it is at keeping fuel from being pushed out of the hose on to the ground. An evap system does not have to be bulky, ugly, or complicated. The simplest system removes the odor, reduces moisture collection from using ethanol blends, and cuts fuel evaporation emission by about half. For a passive purge evap system, assuming a filler cap that normally only vents into the tank, you need: 1) a small charcoal canister 2) a roll over/pressure check valve with a hose fitting 3) a 5/16 fuel hose between them 4) a 5/8 heater hose on the atmo side 5) To keep out water and bugs, some window screen and zip tie to hold it on or a breather like you have on the other end of the canister that cannot let bugs and water enter the can. That's all it takes. Weight is minimal. No engine driven purge. Direct tank mount: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/perko-tank-mounted-fuel-tank-vent-line-valves-epa-compliant/0588f00 No tank mod inline fuel/air sep/surge tank: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/perko-air-fuel-separator-epa-compliant/0488001 A 1/2 liter can that will last as long as you keep water and fuel out of it: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/perko-marine-carbon-canisters-epa-compliant/0486005035 It is best to have the can above the vent valve or separator. For no tank mods, a line off the tank vent horizontal to a corner to put the separator as high as practical near a coilover, then down to a low mount canister should prevent any fuel reaching the can. Since this is not a required system, you can use whatever you want. For lower cost, automotive valves, a diy surge and can could be used. The can is just that; charcoal aquarium pellets with filter material on each end to keep the bits from migrating out and a spring loaded plate to keep them compacted so they don't move back and forth from vehicle motion and abrade/crumble into powder. Auto cans typically have a plug in the purge line somewhere with a tiny hole to limit the amount of engine driven vacuum applied to purge so that could be removed and left open to passive purge with water and bug protection.

I expect it is probably a kit from the UK. Maybe a Robin Hood or Tiger? Those look like standard fiat 124 70's ball joints. The bushings may be nylon versions of triumph spitfire bushes. I recognize there are many members of both forums.

Another alternative to a lot of fuel hose is to use a jeep roll over valve (YJ or CJ) or expansion tank (like geo tracker). It would be compact and effective at about $25 for rollover and slosh from cornering, plus break the vacuum so fuel could drain back from gravity in the straight versus sitting in the loops to be pushed out at the next corner. However, if working properly, none of these prevent venting and a fuel smell in the garage. To prevent fumes, if you can prevent any fuel from leaking out the vent pipe under any conditions, a small charcoal canister could added at the end of the hose then as you empty the tank, fumes collected in the can are pulled back into the tank from the vacuum (must have sealed filler cap). Not as effective as vacuum purging through a hose restrictor but better than nothing. Look at commercial landscaping equipment or carbed 70-80s oem cans for sufficient tank capacity. Any liquid fuel reaching the can will solidify the pellets and ruin the can.

A sliding door with a control cable on the firewall, shelf, or on each side of the tunnel would be practical and plenty of heat from a much hotter source that warms up much quicker than coolant.

For flat tappets, I use rotella conventional diesel oil changed every 3000 miles. Extending change intervals because syn doesn't break down as quickly is not as good even if just the filter is changed every 3000. The filter still passes smaller material collecting in the oil and can bypass the filter entirely if cold enough.

That would be replaced as part of a clutch service. The work is the same so you might as well ask for that. https://www.kampena.com/ Road trip? Maybe they know somebody in socal.

What is the back story? Which bearing is bad? How many miles (commute/weekend touring/track) since you became aware of the issue? Have you checked the oil level in the trans? What oil type and weight was used to fill? Drained and changed or topped off? Leaks? Under what conditions does the bearing make noise? It is much easier and faster to find a shop to swap transmissions. No multi-shop coordination or waiting on parts that may be difficult to find or get here, tying up shop space that will factor into the cost and the keys are back in your hand a day later. Have the original rebuilt and tuck it away. Good spares are worth the lost space. Maybe this one is still available? https://www.2040-parts.com/ford-t9-t-9-type-9-5-speed-transmission-i2258014/ As for rebuilding, try the mechs at a local, manual trans specialty shop (like porsche) for a weekend side job. It isn't rocket science but they need to have gear box experience. I'd avoid rebuilder factories but you might try Weller in Fontana. If I could not find a reasonable $$$ spare, I'd convert to some other type of overdrive trans depending on what compatible bellhousing would be available to make it work. Plenty of better, more common transmissions out there.

The tire and axle ratios were just an example where a 23 tooth driven would work. Rereading, I don't think I was clear about that. I'd rather have longer legs for a touring car to get on the highway; probably around 3:1 is a good compromise with no overdrive considering 13 or 14 inch tires. If you mostly stay on an island versus interstate highways where everyone is going about 70+, Consider something numerically higher for more torque multiplication. Imho, it really needs overdrive to do everything well with tiny tires and push rods.

The same could be said of any ignition system that is left connected to the battery. Power should always be controlled by the key for the coil and the trigger. If it were not, the engine would never stop. Alternators that have been mis-wired can back feed the system so when the key is off, the engine continues to run off alternator output.

Cams with more overlap (where intake and exhaust valves are partially open) have numerically lower manifold vacuum at idle with the same compression ratio. Timing advance increases vacuum for any cam spec. Too much advance and the engine will stall with any load, surge, or ping so like any timing curve, it is something that needs to be dialed in by controlling the total (limiting the travel at the plate or the can) and adjusting the preload to control at what level of vac it starts. More vac, more port velocity is available, carbs are more responsive, etc.

Don't buy anything yet as these parts may not be the best choice depending on a few variables. Ford gear housing to gm cable adapter ($16): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-speedometer-sender-adapter-change-GM-to-Ford-type-/261007138948 GM 90 deg drive, 1:1 ratio ($52): https://www.ebay.com/itm/325356595192?hash=item4bc0c3a7f8:g:TWMAAOSwtlhWFouF&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFdvds12uqTAgGmE8W28O%2B3RjAcjNYJ79r%2Fyx8eoeuU0bxigrze%2BWUHPisOaE%2Fnrjw4ETpP75cGn%2BMD0%2FVz4bvzq41f6Nrxunaa7k57CnD52Nmu4VjwbbK4rlD49KYk2iczf5RVdYmGwurYR%2FxP1TeNun9czlMPyKdw6gHpZLUhe8aPqFlAvq0OGwKpl4MVRJzlxJtE%2B%2BFsbWnHiuh%2BilSD%2F2FzWJp3O51BKGCYNdoNn%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5anu-bvYA Your existing driven gear is white which indicates 17 or 23 teeth so the drive gear in the trans is probably 6 teeth. 6/17= 0.353:1. If you have a 4:1 diff and 185-60-13 tires, that ratio would be as close as you can get with a 1:1 angle drive at the limit of adjustment and reliability with oem gears (truck like axle with tiny tires) but the ratio could be adjusted in part or whole with the angle drive. To check the cable direction of rotation, install the old drive and rotate the input shaft clockwise as viewed from the front in gear. The driven gear looks like standard rotation for a common driver's side cable output but there are reverse rotation driven and drive gears depending on application. The cortina speedometer itself may be reverse rotation. Angle drive adapters can also reverse rotation. I expect your speedo is standard cw cable rotation. You can check this with a drill and a short piece of vacuum hose to slip over the cable end or, if the cable is straight for low friction simply rotate the cable end with your fingers while observing the speedo needle direction of movement. A pic of the drive gear on the trans would help too.

Those are standard domestic ford parts (a bonus imho for adapting and calibration). I guess your speedo uses a gm cable. I've spliced different mfg cable types together (most recently suzuki cable and speedo to gm) but you won't need to do that. Axle ratio and rear tire size? What color is the gear on the trans output? Count the teeth straight across the gear horizontally? Probably 6-7 teeth?

Avast me hearty! That be a fuel primer bulb. Arrrgh...

Dwell is how long the points can stay closed to charge the coil primary. With a fixed cam and point design, the dwell is determined by the point gap setting. The feeler should barely drag when perfectly square to the point surfaces and the points transfer material from each other in use that can be filed off and the gap reset for more life.