MV8

They should. It's just a housing for an H4. The nice part about that is if the led fails, you can just change the led versus buying a whole assembly and can swap back to halogens if you want (been there, done that). I ordered a few at $18 a pair (Marietta Toyota dealer is having a sale this week plus free shipping nationwide if over $75). Should be in hand by Friday.

Were the plugs checked when you received the car? How many miles have you put on it before issues? Did the previous owners modify? Are the plugs installed the correct plugs? Did it spent a lot of time idling monthly without driving? So many things can foul plugs. As Croc said, replace and try again especially if you don't know what it was subjected to. Some pics around the engine bay might provide a clue for us.

I have air tools but very rarely use them for anything. I use a large four-way lug wrench (14 inch I think and a two-armed arrangement which has much greater leverage). I have folding four ways in the cars appropriate to the lugs (sae or metric). I've only needed a breaker and 3/4 sockets on commercial vehicles.

Probably not a Ford ECU. MBE comes to mind. Having an OBD port to plug into is only half the battle. You will probably need a tuner program to run on a lap top with a serial to OBD cable to communicate. There will likely be a BIN file to install so the universal tuner program will show the correct information based on the cars ECU outputs. The standard handheld reader is not much use. Find your ECU and the part numbers on it. Maybe post a pic or two...

You were not towing and they set the pressure accordingly. If you were towing an empty trailer, 80 psi is not correct either. "under-inflated" does not mean anything less than the max load pressure.

That comes from the shop not using torque sticks and the air pressure set to high. Sticks are color coded for the torque spec. Assuming it wasn't deliberate, all it takes is one moron without enough supervision. You can always stop and take it back to the shop to have them loosen the lugs and torque to a spec.

I show the height as 7.50" and the width as 8.25".

It looks like VDO are typically 10-184 ohm. Most universal senders are 0-190 ohm and can be tweaked to work with a VDO (so as not to go past full or empty indication on the gauge). It is also possible that all you need is a new float, to solder a cracked brass float, or the old one fell off the arm (they often snap on). A marine stainless reed switch sender (must select the right length) is around $50 for a VDO gauge and around $20 for one calibrated for a 0-190 ohm gauge. A traditional swinging arm sender for VDO is around $25.

I've seen these talked about but I've not needed any lamps for a long time. I'll add a few sets to my valve shim order (adjusting lash on a dohc 3.4l-v6 5vzfe, shim over bucket). These should fit any vehicle that shows part number 6014/6024 as a replacement lamp. They should fit my jeep, miatas, and spitfire. These should be stamped DOT for use here, but euro E code lamps come both ways. The country is part of the numbering so you know if it is a left or right hand drive lamp. I have a set of hella H4 in an early miata for a right hand drive country.

Remove the eight roll bar bolts and fuel filler cap. The top cover should lift off. It may hinge at the carpet lining the boot so it won't need to be cut. Should be a 17 gallon tank with no expansion space (don't fill to the brim). You can determine the correct sender using a 500 ohm potentiometer (like car radios used to have for volume control) for about $3. Connect the pot between ground and the gauge, apply power to the gauge, then rotate the pot until it shows empty. Check the pot resistance with a dvm. Repeat for full indication. Let me know if you need a link to the POTs on amazon. You can convert to a marine stainless tube design. These come in many ohm configs, flange mount to the top of the tank, and are also selected based on the longest tube that will fit in the tank (for accuracy when the tank is low). You can swap the gauge as well. Should be a standard 2 inch hole.

This is what a Birkin mount looks like. The difference in rigidity to what you've made is huge. The tube extends to the boxing plate. Flanged as described above and boxed with an access hole for the fastener.

The bend is a critical area. Just a small gusset flange (3/8-1/2"x0.100-.125" strips) across the bends (forming a C channel) makes a big difference and it looks like you have plenty of clearance for it. Let me know if you'd like a picture.

It's possible someone changed the springs on your current coilovers from the track spec rate. Aftermarket springs usually have rates and part numbers stenciled on the spring itself. A dial caliper to check wire thickness, counting coils with space between them (active coils), the measured outside diameter, and some math can indicate close to the advertised rate. The rate can also be checked off the car assembled or with the spring removed.

https://en.racelogic.support/VBOX_Motorsport/Product_Info/Legacy_Products/Traction_Control/Traction_Control_-_User_Guide/06_-_TC_Setup_Software Link to the software download from the page above: https://www.racelogic.co.uk/_downloads/traction/Traction_MKII.zip

Also fwiw, I have ford service manuals for the Sierra and Escort RS 4x4 cosworth turbo cars if anybody needs something specific not covered by the BDR docs. I also have a book by Des Hammill covering cosworth and other ford DOHC and a very early instruction pamplet by David Vizard on ford twin cam tuning.

I can see how it might be interpreted that way, but their is a hierachy to regulation, and info added to a gov website is often wrong and near the bottom of the list next to intangible information shared by phone. I've had to point out that State Code has not changed yet when a DMV was trying to do "something new". I've needed a similar form to the VTR68A in Georgia for vehicles that were already titled but were last registered out of State, previously salvage, etc. I call 911, state this is not an emergency, that I need a VIN verification (stating the form number), then they XFR me to a person who will come to my location when able. A LEO needs to check it out; not just a mechanic.

I guess the 30 day permit was not for joy rides. MSO and VTR-68A are not interchangeable. They serve two different purposes. It is hard to believe any Texas DMV form says otherwise.

Stop driving it until it is drained to look for shiny specs and how much comes out, then refill to where it is to the brim of the filler hole. You may get lucky. Check the trans oil level while you are at it.

I think 0.100" would be way too much off the deck on anything (even a slant six). That may not be enough cut to bring whatever combo you have to near zero deck height. Custom longer rods could bring a standard piston to that but if you are going that far, why not even longer rods and short, lighter pistons? Echoing Chris a bit... No blocks out there to sleeve or just line bored too many times?

Many interesting custom builds for racing without cutting up an original. Here is one with a similar rear config. Pushrod ifs with a bike drivetrain. Owner went by "Modern Beat". Pics are circa 2010 or so.

FWIW, I have hand written notes about Armstrong showing 95/54 f/r for an S2, with a row titled "Rate lbs in" that looks a lot like "Rate 105 in".

Labor is typically flat rate; not how long it actually takes. Also, parts are normally marked up a percentage if the shop must determine what they are and procure them. I'm going to guess 2k if the shop does everything. Check out the repair pal site to get an idea of what it costs for normal cars in your area or at least near the border.

Never too late to go back to fork with a slave or cable. I only use a concentric when there is no other option.

That looks like some custom bits added to a euro industrial starter S114-252A. I suggest buying this one (while it is still available) and changing the pieces on the end or worst case, swapping the motor. Can't beat the price. Starters cannot dissipate heat well. To save you from another replacement, consider a duty cycle of 45 seconds of cool down for every 5 seconds of engagement. https://www.ebay.com/itm/135598781885