slowdude

Ive narrowed my issue down to a faulty coolant temp sensor to the ecu or a capacitor issue in my ecu. I can drive for 20 minutes fine no problem, car will misfire and cut power. Key off and on resets the car and it drives no problem. So its an input issue or an ecu issue. Cant be heatsoak as theres no cool off period, and the car runs fine. Im the same as you. I dont want a power cut at the worst possible time. Only thing I can think of is its having an issue fueling. Giving it more air via the throttle body indicates a fueling issue -> youre giving it more air to lean out the mixture. If you can, grab a stand alone wideband sensor and gauge and see what happens when the misfire starts. My AFR for example is fine when my misfire happens, so I know its fueling OK and intake is set OK. I check ignition in ecu and its OK too, so it has to be input or control system.

I've been chasing similar ish issues on a separate chassis for the better part of a year and a half. Going back through this: 1. Grounds are good? 2. Lambda is new? 3. Plugs are new? 4. AFR is good? Since the ECU controls timing, and you haven't touched the mechanical timing? You should be fine. I'm re-watching your videos-> your fuel is pulling 20% more to adjust for the lambda. I'm wondering if your fuel pressure is low, and the car is sending fuel pump to push more fuel through. I say that because your plugs were getting fouled despite the lambda saying youre at stoich, and timing we can rule out. I'd rule out the master switch. The car runs normally, it just acts up, if the master switch was toast, you'd have trouble firing up and driving. It leads me to think two things, which I'm also going through. ECU has gone silly, and lost calibration of sensors. Or, your fuel pump has something going on (fuel trim, and black plugs despite the AFR being "OK").

MEK100030 "black type" coolant sensors. For an EU3 car [coils], not for my car. Paid duties etc, my loss your gain. Asking $20 each + shipping, 2 available.

Motorcyclist, two hands down is just an acknowledgement of you also being a fellow rider. Getting it in a car is quite a feat, usually means you have something really cool. Peace sign back is perfectly acceptable. @Vovchandr knows whats up too!

ordered an AIT sensor from UK. 35$ and $40 in tariffs. woooooooooo

Crb was like $20. Its a ford part, the input shaft is modified to fit the rover. Since i was in there, I did flywheel, clutch and basket. I belive it was actually a Vauxhall part from QED. I did the crb in and out in a morning with help from a member here. It helped that I prepped the car the night before by disconnecting intake and exhaust, removing coolant etc. If youre paying a shop, its a fairly simple job due to the car being simple. Shops will charge a good amount. One thing I would have done is check the clutch fork pivot. Mine rattles like a bastard bc the bushing is shot. Would definitely replace it.

Agreed. Coils dont blow for the giggles of it. Mine blew bc I shorted something by accident.

All of my lights on my dashboard light up with the lights on.

Hmmm, what is causing the coil to blow. Alternator? Grounding?

AEM or Amazon have stand alone AFR gauges. @NSXguy has a similar standalone setup on his kent. @IamScotticus, those AFRs seem very rich. I just got my wideband (Spartan) setup off my emerald and its running to AFR targets setup by my engine builder for my cams. My idle is at 14.5, through to 13.2 at full throttle for when the cams come on. Over 14 is OK, its when you get above 15 that you risk running leaner. Running super rich at idle (especially at start up - sub 14), you risk carbon build up due to intake/exhaust valves. Anything around stoich should be fine. Since youre not running an ecu to measure voltage on the sensor, check the manual of whatever sensor you get and see if there is a calibration process. Make sure you also check which wideband it is, there are a lot of 4.2 clones, while most newer widebands can run 4.9 and 4.2's. Check the manual as well for the sensor heater, so you know when the sensor is ready to go so you dont fry it. Make sure the sensor isnt wet and cold or it will fry. I just spent too much time learning about all of this with my emerald ECU, but I am very happy with how it turned out.

Clunks, buzzes and rattles are normal. Smells are normal too. I like to think of it like a house, they settle over time until theyre just right, same with these cars. Unless youre constantly refilling coolant or showing other signs of HGF. Just drive it. I tell myself this too.

Slightly Taller tires and a dry sump will fix this. You can only do so much with suspension without screwing up geometry. I just live with scraping my muffler a bit. Look up how the stance people go over bumps, youll have to do that after some time.

Yep, they just take some driving. My lightened flywheel was definitely worth it!

Well. Got out for my 25 mile loop today. Car did NOT misfire with the new crank position sensor in. I need to do some more loops close to home to see if it was truly the crank position sensor. Also dropped new BCPR7ES plugs in, so will try and do longer and longer drives. May have found the culprit.

Green stuff have been perfect for spirited road riding and a occasional track days.

Time for an upgrade to Wilwood? I look at opportunities like this for a tailored upgrade. Motorcycle sock over a master cylinder; I dont think i've seen that in use in practice. If the moto GP guys are doing it, I would. If not, idk what value other than catching the overflow.

Check FCP Euro. A lot of the late 90s land rover freelander parts were on rover minis. My crank position sensor was off an SPI mini but used on 99 freelander.

Ya TPS voltage doesnt sound right to me either. AFR is more likely culprit, especially with your open loop comment.

Looks like the coil. I purchased this and it worked as 1.4 etc are rover mini application. https://www.minispares.com/gcl143-coil-for-electronic-ignition-89-on Edit its out of stock. Any GLC143 coil equivalent should do.

Yessir, needed to take full time away from it to come back. I cant tell if mentally the car is starting slightly faster. Thursday I will try and get out for a lunch drive and replicate the loop to see if the issue persists.

Ah just seeing this now, didn't see you posted that you pushed the seat forward in your whatsapp. Tightening screws pushes the lever back which pushes the pedals towards you.

hazard switch can drive issues with the other switches. Some literature on blatchat would be better to help you here, i dont think i've seen that really come up here. Battery voltage is OK? @Vovchandr his looks like a 1.4 so not a vvc, no cam sensor. I Think he has the same as me, a distributor on a rotor arm off the intake cam. Good point. @Andy69 Check that rotor arm and make sure its not moving. Theres a small set screw below it. Check your coil resistance. When my coil went it was 4.xx, when new it should be 7.3/4xx. Since its the 1.4, youre going to have to look at mid 90s rover mini parts. If you need help on harness wiring on the rear for lights, I think my M579TAB build thread has an overview of the wires you should check.

will need to put a resistor in line to ecu to smooth signal? If its the TPS voltage you think, resistor could smooth the noise out on the signal.

Yep, sorry for not linking.

Went with SPA mirrors plus the uberniche door hinge / integrated mount. Put a rubber grommet in between the ball and the tightening screw on the mount. Mirror is going to outlive the car. If you don't replace. Liquid Nails and send it.