slowdude

Anyone want to get a drive in? Ridgefield cars and coffee or hayfields?

Yep I've seen the back and forth on this. I don't think it hurts to have a consistent pressure on it to keep CRB from blowing out, but it reeks of unhinged internet commentor in a tinfoil hat ranting (surprisingly I'm OK with the ranting). I have a CX20E throw out bearing on the T9 to K series. I think it's just the one that fits the clutch fork.

Update, and for anyone else who goes through this with a rover k series. K series with stock flywheel. 20 degree ignition advance @ 180 degrees. K series with lightweight flywheel, 12 degree ignition advance @ 151 degrees. Timing dependent upon cams BUT this should help someone get into the right ballpark. Up and running, need to burp the coolant system and then go drive it.

Bring a razor blade and a small bottle of rubbing alcohol. Ports sometimes affix big stickers to windscreens to tell dock workers where the car needs to go.

Need to cut up my seat and put the bottom strap in.

Full hood when fitted properly holds off the water extremely well. Went through some all day rainstorms with minimal water ingress and it was only by the door hinge.

I was able to get my emerald ECU up and running. Batched ignition of cylinders 2&4 etc. Spark is done through a coil to a rotor arm off intake cam. ECU pulses the coil to fire. I couldn't see where I would have affected the timing but I will check it. This starter noise is new to me and having checked electricals, not sure where to check next so timing makes sense. I'll pull plugs again and rotate engine to see what I can get. I was cranking it with the plugs out to read the CPS with the flywheel and didn't have anything come out that I could see.

Appreciate this, I'll pick one up and double check!

Got it back together, got ecu updated for new flywheel pattern. Banging my head on the wall with this no start issue. I can't see anything unplugged, clutch has been backed off at the box so it's not super tight and putting pressure. Put a mark on the crank, starter is engaging with flywheel and turning engine. @MV8 any thoughts? What's going on in that noggin of yours? I noticed I had some super frayed starter wires, so re crimped them thinking I was getting voltage drop, but Still making this ZZZ noise. Checked relays. MFRU isnt triggered since the fuel pump is priming. ECU is registering crank position sensor on new flywheel, plugs seem to have fuel (smelled it on plugs when i pulled), coil/rotor arm/plugs are new. Still digging but banging my head against the wall.

I saw you on canyon carver's lotus elise story. Glad to see you're out and driving!!

Cannot stress this enough. Then if you go to fix something in the future you have it documented. And if for some reason you sell, new owner has a history of the car.

Did you try Christopher John out of daytona beach? They're an active caterham dealer iirc, might know the process for FL. Worst case, Montana perm plate and never think about it again.

Worst case you can dirtbag camp with me!

Yep this, discount mg rover spares, elise parts, QED Motorsport etc. There are a few to get what you need. Kit car direct is also good for some of the misc parts, sevens and classics will ship to the US.

Sensible chuckle.

Update for the non northeast 7s group chat members / rolling diary of work done to the car. Absolutely massive thanks to Des for showing up and pulling an engine, doing the clutch and flywheel, then reinstalling the engine in 4.5 hours. Replaced clutch (helix), clutch cover, flywheel (lightened, half the weight of the stock), CRB and spigot bearing. While the car was out, replaced a water rail temperature sensor. Wrapped exhaust header, wire rushed some cooling system pieces. Replaced intake manifold gasket. Need to adjust the ECU to recognize the new crank trigger, fill and bleed cooling system, and get exhaust bung welded for wideband. Adjust the clutch and then it's break in the clutch. I think I figured out my rattle. CRB had significant side to side movement, causing the clutch fork to rattle side to side, along with forward and back. Hopefully the new CRB will quiet down this clutch fork play. Small rear main seal leak that hasn't been affecting the car, so left as is. Looking forward to bedding the car in before the Sept track day.

Since you can't get zinc easily, zinc addative or liquimoly friction inhibitor essentially serves the same function. 5W-50 for my k series.

@Carz01, I'm 3/4 of the way through reassembly on a clutch job and will have to adjust the clutch. I may be up your way in 2 weeks or so. If it's still giving you an issue we can get together and I can try and help.

I was looking at S1 elises for the weight savings vs the Toyota engined ones, plus I like the look. I've got a K series. Rebuilt it due to fried piston rings due to larger injectors running rich due to the value job due to the rover mems 2 not knowing how much fuel to put into the engine. Engine has a list of mods too long for here, and I'm getting deep into adjusting the ECU for it. I've never had it leave me stranded, it sounds incredible with a pair of cams in higher revs, but it's a quirky engine you need to iron some things out on (sump gasket modification etc). I really like mine. It's a bit warmed over and constantly burns a little oil, but it makes up for that in spades with the character. I can understand why people don't like it, but for me it's character makes up for all of it.

I just ordered a 2025 Mini in BRG with gold wheels to match my 7. Will see how it goes. I agree with Vlad. You need something wildly opposite a 7. Money no object? Something really bizarre. Monteverdi SUV or something similarly funky and anti 7. Realistic budget, maybe a boring but reliable mazda 3 sedan. It heightens the edge of the 7.

@Croc clutch party

Oh man she's looking good. Perfect for a blast on ocean drive

False. My UK car has the same 17 digit VIN and it is 27 years old, it wasn't intended for export - but it still has a VIN. Worldwide standard sometime in the 80s I think. BTT I can't find any other locations where to check for a VIN. When importing I needed the police to check the VIN and run it to see if it was stolen, along with NCIB. Was the only place we could find a VIN.

I just bought a used one from 7s and classics for 100GBP (vs the 375 GBP new). Super easy to set up, and takes up significantly less space in the trunk of a regular S3. Once it gets colder (late sept), I'll switch back over to the full hood. I am impressed by the quality and how much easier it is than the whole hood. Edit: I'm not sure if I'd pay the full amount for one. It almost covers next to your head but not quite. Once I get it through some rainstorms I'll let you know how much I like it over the full roof.

I have a similar one from 7s and classics. If I didn't already have one (and JAL rear lights), I'd get the das76 one here.