wemtd

Whatever keeps the lights on. I would like to see the lady get in for a second drive. So far SWMBO is only up for one drive/year

count me in p.

Extra parts? Those are standard for all seven builds. Love the color

Congrats Bruce! Glad to hear you're getting another seven

Where are you sourcing your aluminum tube? i have two in my system but have never been fully satisfied with them

Sounds interesting: you should bring it to the Mike & Tom's annual get together.

you can also try BirkinUSA (Tbox). He may have one for the duratec builds he's been doing. Or perhaps Beachman?

I use a gear puller and iirc a piece of flat stock with a notch for th column to grasp ontowhe avoiding scratching the hub

My birkin (and I expect caterham) steering shaft has a splined end. You should be able to remove the hub and turn it 180* onto the spline. Be sure to make a witness mark from shaft to hub to realign it

At least for the 2.0 curated there are two water outlet connectors: one plastic, one cast aluminum (same part number When I finally managed to get an aluminum one I had a fabricator TIG weld customization for my plumbing configuration and now have both temp senders in the primary water flow (ECU & dash display) This would eliminate the temp sender T-piece and grounding wire for it.

51°F and sunny in CT tomorrow Anyone up for one last drive of the year? (or Saturday if people are not available Thursday) p.

Minnis - (food for thought) - I'm neither expert nor engineer, and have a different engine but will share my experience. In my Duratec i read/heard of drilling an ~2.5mm hole in the coolant thermostat plate to allow extra coolant through the engine. This was first proposed to aid air bubble clearance. After experiencing repeated overheating under load i drilled a second (3rd?) hole. This resolved my overheating issues on track. The engine now warms up nicely and runs at a consistent ~190°F around town and on the track. best of luck.

You should look up Dr. Hasegawa. he drives a Birkin and has journaled many breathtaking drives in his seven.

... I keep a supply of sharpie markers and crystal light/drink mix containers on hand: translucent so you can mostly see what's in them, they stand up on the shelf well and hold most of the nuts/bolts of my car (I've had it apart once or twice). I find these work better than zip-loc bags. most of the bigger parts are easily identified by sight and can go in boxes: eg: drink container for fore differential mounting bolts, diff is hard to miss-identify sitting on the bench. good luck, have fun, and keep us updated on your progress. p.

I definitely recommend a time-lapse photo like this smart person did I tried to make one of my build: set up a camera to take photo every 3min for entire build. I then compressed all photos into a cine/film and adjusted the playback speed. The two main problems i encountered was moving my build 1/2 way through but didn't record stuffing the chassis into a u-haul trailer without wheels, etc. Second problem was builder wearing a balaclava in his unheated arctic garage for the first half, then my finest lawn-mowing ensemble for the completion. good luck!

- Jack up car, put on dollies, turn sideways in back of garage to allow daily driver room indoors - Drain gas tank: refill with fresh gas in the spring. - Remove battery and bring indoors: re-charge in late winter. - Cover with blankets & car cover to prevent $&% falling off wall and contacting car. - Conduct yearly "soup to nuts" maintenance and other projects delayed in lieu of driving (this year remove squeaks from suspension bushings).

I'm using (lower profile, non-Stock with equivalent function). Oil filter NAPA #1056. in my stock 2.0L duratec. The armchair view is a lower profile filter than the OEM one which is 30% longer(closer to the ground). p.

Papak - my notes on this are as follows: Rear differential (Subaru R160 LSD): 2008 Forester XS. Oil capacity: 0.9L of 75/90 synthetic gear oil. IIRC there is a lower drain plug and a second filler/plug above that: fill level should be to bottom of that plug (until oil runs out) on a level surface. But if you checked on an angle...

FYI Black or White https://www.blipshift.com/

That looks really sharp Roman ! Do you have more pics? Did you use bedliner on the rear fenders or something else? How do you find it holding up: my aluminum shields are well sand-blasted with the underlying clearbra in great shape. Cheers p.

https://www.blipshift.com/products/drive-it-yourself

Is 0.5v significant? While trying to chase down an engine performance issue earlier this summer I hooked up my laptop and discovered my car voltage is averaging ~ 13.4v while running. It previously averaged ~14v (read from ECU, dash gauge is steady at 14v). Everything else seems to be ok, I replaced the alternator's voltage regulator (boring story) and polished my battery cables and still see the same voltage. Admittedly I've never paid this much attention to the voltage. Rear lights were changed to LED's last year and 3A 50Vpeak diodes were added to the indicator circuit (stock wiring used the inactive side as ground for the activated indicator light - too little resistance for LED's activates both sides simultaneously without a diode) Standard disclaimer: [stock 2.0 duratec, haltech ECU, ITB's, coil on plug direct fire - stock injectors/packs, etc] While statistically significant. Is this enough of a difference to be relevant to operation of the car? (I suspect a touchy ground somewhere) V=IR is about all I remember... p.

Pm me if Craig doesn't have what you need. I think I saw something similar in my arts pile a while ago P.

Agreed. Glen I like this one best - totally seduced, and with record production time too. I don't think most of us were even home before you were done crafting this masterpiece. Thanks!

Wait a minute ... If red is the fastest color - who is goin to keep up with the storker if Seb. Todd, and Simon are missing from the lineup ?