wemtd

Count me on jay. Just can’t be a work day for me.

I got a set of rear roadvision R8 clusters from https://ultimateledlights.com.au/ they work great but one thing... You may need to insert a pair of diodes into your wiring loom: My car was set up with the internal resistance of the incandescent bulbs serving as ground {This explanation is a little dodgy since i'm no electrical engineer}. Substituting the rear LED's activating the turn signal would power all the lights simultaneously. A pair of diode's and separate ground fixed this.

Why not call the engineers at ARP for a definitive ruling?

I also have a set of short trumpets for this ITB. They are new & unused (they shipped the wrong size & not worth me returning).

John given your ambitious list for the morning: I would have (realistically) budgeted one week of spare time to accomplish - keep the details coming. .P

Over what time period have they broken? Check with BirkinDirect as they may have other ideas. IIRC the last one I heard of breaking turned out to be sequelae of a dying wheel bearing

Are your cables color coded? Follow cable running to starter : + Cable running to ground/engine block: - Check fuses

here ya go... (best pic i could find) i epoxy'd a pair of BigHeads benath the trailing fender edge; then used nyloc nuts. I cut them out of ? 1/8" lexan plexiglass from the home center. They are more flexible than I'd expected: flexing if i run over something big yet otherwise rigid enough to stay in position.

Driver side. Aluminum guard on 3M LLumar covered fiberglass wheel arch (dirt, bugs, & etc) included Silenced on passenger side shields it from many debris. I also have a set of lexan mud flaps on cycle fenders which is an enormous help [/ATTACH]

I mounted 3M Clearbra/ LLumar12 to my rear fenders beneath the aluminum stone guards. The stone guards have been thoroughly sand blasted, and the surrounding paint is untouched. It was a little fiddly going on but is definitely worth the frustration. p.

Mike Any chance you can stick the GoPro on for the rest of us stuck sitting in our garages making 'vroom vroom' noises ?

Have you looked into having a fabricator just make a set of wingstays to match all the other bespoke parts of your car?

I managed to squeeze a Tillett B6 into my narrow body Birkin. It’s quite comfortable and lowers my position in the car which is good. Now I'm challenged by my belts (par for the course: one step forward, two back) previously I had the Birkin sport seats and looped the sub-belt around the front, there was plenty of room for lap belt hardware on either side. As you can see in this pic the B6 is a little wider and gives the driver lateral support. Consequently the hardware interferes with the belt holes through the seat making it difficult to fully tighten the lap belts. Now that the sub belt comes up from below it’s also a little....tight. Does anyone have similar experience: I think switching to pull up belts may help. But I think ones with less space between the cam-lock and hardware is needed? Would switching to a 6-point setup help with the sub-belt position?

... and mine was coughing above 5k: which ended up being a dying ignition module. Whose replacement promptly died on it's second drive a month ago. Hopefully third time's the charm. Luckily I have until October to get this sorted (and see what fails next)

Have they searched the locost forum? There was information there several years ago. IIRC two of our members have registered in NY more recently and the process was an exercise in bureaucratic cross checks but otherwise not too bad.

Maybe this could be a new marketing idea for sevens: drive to Eagle CO. Try on a few cars for size, have your inseam & waist measured and Tom will build a car that fits the driver. This certainly would help our member from California trying to find a Caterham that he knows will fit.

have you tried softening the pinchwelt /trim with a heat gun?

except they're wearing the mask beneath their noses...

https://www.blipshift.com/products/add-lightness-vii

Vov - Nice seat! You could also get the sued seat pad to avoid seeing scratches. As for my car: I’m doing a whole lot of nothing. My new seat is 90% installed. However while on a short drive around the neighborhood last week the ECU’s ignitor module gave up the ghost. Should be under warranty; nevertheless once again I have no vroom vroom, and am waiting on the postman.

John. I'm not sure about the oil pump. WRT the water outlet... My experiences with the 2.0L Duratec is there are (at least) two versions of the engine: one made by ford, one by Mazda. As far as I've been able to determine the Mazda version had a plastic water outlet connector (for which there is a groove to accept the rubber gasket with the little tab on it). The other is the Ford cast aluminum water outlet connector (or visa-versa). Not to be outdone: in their catalogs both plastic & aluminum water outlet connectors have the same part number. I learned this the hard way; and was only able to sort this out by finding a ford dealership who had both parts in stock. The difference in the catalog was only identified by price difference (same part # again). When I imposed on the clerk to put his hands on both parts for me: he returned to the phone after 15 minutes to report that indeed there was a difference. For better or worse I've always used a nice bead of RTV to seal mine. Good luck p.

I got a B6 without the edges: their narrowest model. It can also be ordered with a “Caterham cut” where they further cut down the sides adjacent to your outer thigh. as ordered it's 40cm wide, the space in my car is ~38cm. After much fettling of the mounting bracket and some custom spacers from TBox i've been able to use the Birkin slider without adding any height. Just like the passenger seat in 'Orange' it is very comfortable, however even narrower (I can barely fit). A short drive around my neighborhood yesterday felt good without the cushion pads installed. Unfortunately I awoke to this joke.... So if they've salted the roads it'll be another week before I can take a proper drive. p.[ATTACH=CONFIG]16869[/ATTACH]

After excessive fettling I’ve squeezed a Tillett into my narrow body Birkin S3. It looks good from test fits with my head substantially lower in the car than I could ever achieve by previously removing the seat cushions. Expectedly- my battery was dead...

Thanks mike - sounds like you need to take shelter in your garage...

Have you double checked the steering shaft universal joints?