wemtd

Ear plugs, hat (tied to car with a cord), lots of sun block, frequent stops. (A helmet is also great for wind buffeting & noise comfort) Have fun!

Is there any consensus on how many nylon bolts to use? I just received mine today and wonder if there is a critical mass to secure the rear arch without there being too much resistance to breakaway? Eg: Two at front/rear end, one or two at the top and holes open in-between.

Chris:My birkin fenders are secured into a threaded steel round. there are two offset rivest securing this to the inside of the aluminum skin. If you're interested i can PM you a picture. p.

Ooh nice! But now that it's shiny you can never stop polishing

Beautiful pictures! Did you bring Amos along to make you look good?

I think best to remove. Disassemble. Plastidip I think cater ham is same as Birkin requiring the "special tool" to do this- Cut a Chanel in a socket to pass over the wires coming through the bolt.

It looks crooked to me. Maybe blackhole and I should come help?

I have a tiny crack on the edge of mine: had a local glass shop drill a hole at the end to prevent it from spreading. another option is to save your aluminum edging and have a new screen cut from safety glass or similar by a local shop adn then reassemble. The disadvantage is you loose the integral heating wires doing this.

Wow ! beautiful nose cone

I must be getting old.. Reading your solution jogged my memory to last year when I installed LED rear light clusters and had the same problem. Same solution with diode installation (similarly inexpensive trailer diodes from napa) - totally forgot about this fun discovery.

So I guess no luck with the hotrod inquiry? That is above board, and iirc allows just about anything. Or don't use it as a street car.

Silly question- do any of the various after market ecu's have OBDII plugs?

Iirc you can keep your sticker I the glove box if there isn't a windshield. No tailpipe sniffer allowance: they're looking for OBDII clear of error codes. Check with your local guru, and the "kit car/specialty vehicle" lady in concord Good luck

He really is a wealth of knowledge and very helpful on the phone.

Chris take a drive to the Lincoln tool company in Maine.

May suggest a locost approach? Find a low milage stock 2.0 engine from a rear end collision focus. A low spec engine is better than your flintstone-mobile. Do the work yourself and should be running for a few hundred bucks. What ECU/setup do you have?

Other essentials: - Mirrors For Sevens http://www.mirrorsforsevens.com - paint protection film (if you want to try your hand at it. this is what i used and it stands up extremely well after 3 years) LLumar-12 fit my car well. https://clearmask.com/bulk-paint-protection-headlamp-protection-films.html - I use Alex at GranitStateDyno for tune-ups & full mapping and have been happy.

PM me - may have some useful experience

Ross. are you referring to one of these or the where the chassis number is stamped & welded into the frame?

Yep - we all remember how that turned out

IIRC 6cm for the Birkin

As with most things in life The answer to your question is: It Depends... - It will vary based upon driver preference, tires & pressure, engine, track vs. autocross vs. daily driver, etc. What are the Factory Recommended settings? - Keeping that in mind, here are some numbers I've come across. used #1 last year and didn't have any gardening adventures 1) Camber -0.9 all around. Toe in: Front 1/8" rear 1/16". 2) Camber -1 to 1.5 all round. Toe: 0. track use 3) Camber 1deg 20' +/- 0 deg 15' (Negative). Toe Tracking : 0deg 20' +/- 0deg 10' Toe in 4) -1 1/2 camber FandR , 1/16 toe front and 0 rear. 5) Camber : 1deg 30' +/- 0 deg 15' (Negative) 6) Toe: 1/8 in (total) as a start; if you have huge torque, add a little more rear toe in at first until you get used to the car. Half degree negative camber in the rear, nearly a full degree in the front. Harder driving on stickier tires will tolerate bigger negative camber, but will wear quicker in a straight line and won't stop as well. KitCat: –1.8 all around cheers

So Sorry for the delay.. Work got in the way this week. - I also recommend earlier threads regarding setup for other makes.

If you're interested in a Birkin talk to Tom Carlin (visiting the factory this week). I expect that with shipping, etc it does not make sense to purchase modules piecemeal. Building is loads of fun: lots of :smash: and :banghead:. Depending on what Croc's weekly search turns up you can probably purcase used for less than a new build. If you are uncommitted by summer, drive down to NJ to see the full selection of sevens. With any luck Shane will come with his Storker too.

Sandy Hook?? I didn't know anyone was in the area