wemtd

Croc I can only imagine what ideas you may be getting from this? I think drones are a no no at NJMP. Milford or the Bear Mountain Bridge Road are different story. p.

Tom I think the 2.3 is similar to the 1.9 duratec. you need the crank timing pin tool which inserts on the exhaust side of the engine. you then need special tool (205-126) to hold the crank preventing it from putting pressure on the: (M6 bolt inserted through the crank pulley into the front cover). there is also a special washer between the pulley and crank. you torque it to 100NM ??? and then turn the bolt an additional 90° (nice long piece of black pipe over your breaker bar for torque) - Just noticed yours has a keyed crank... so i assume you may be able to do this with the timing pin tool alone, but that seems like a lot of force to bear? may be worth checking with cosworth I'm not sure you can do it with the engine in the car. I tried once and it wasn't happening for me. cheers. p.

I think Slomove replaced his harness with a Painless one (or made his own) these diagrams were on the net at one time. If you PM me your e-mail I can send you the wiring diagrams i've got and see if i can help. cheers P.

If i look closely (and focus on the windshield) i can faintly see the wires. Otherwise you don't even know they're there. I have never had an issue with the wires distorting or reflecting light. It is the best windshield defroster I've had on any car, and wish regular cars came with the same system.

As do Birkins

Up hill, both ways in the snow...

oooh nice! You've got the new frame setup (vs. pics of the older frame). Keep the updates coming. p.

FWIW I don't think any honest publicity should be derided. It would be far worse for a novice to go out and buy a cat/storker/birkin/etc... with unrealistic expectations. I thought the article adequately conveyed the unique qualities of our cars. I have read accounts of se7en driving experiences far more critical, and still accurate, than the current one. For perspective: I took a 700mi (out and back) drive without weather gear when it was 20°F at night because my daily driver broke down. Then for pleasure I went for a blat around town at my destination. I wouldn't recommend doing this, but would still do it again. I think MikeD summed it up best when he said we've all got the same screw loose.

Is that Ft Hancock?

Congrats kitcat Maybe you should try on the new relaxed fit Birkin Tom brought last summer. One for the street & one track? They do need company after all, just ask Tom

After a ride in KitCat's car also be prepared to open your wallet. There will be no going back!

Tom Have you tried posting on the Locost forum? They have several builders and cars in your area and are all around good guys who would probably be happy to show you a variety of cars. I think there are several Birkin drivers taller than you who are nicely accommodated by the adjustable pedal box. I also expect a Storker can will nicely fit drivers with long legs. There are several members here in the mid-west - I'll let them reply in their own time. If you can make the drive, Crock & Tom's annual NJ track day traditionally has the biggest and best selection of sevens several years running. cheers

Maybe we should all have full cages? http://www.rhein-zeitung.de/region_artikel,-Spektakulaerer-Unfall-Lotus-Roadster-unter-Schutzplanke-gedrueckt-_arid,1132577.html#.Vm3D3UorK01

Increased awareness & sales & more smiles for se7ens ?

Nonsense, When my daily driver died I drove my Birkin from NH to NJ when it was 20°F. You just gotta bundle up!

From my perspective there are two options: resist or accept the inevitable. Here is a picture of my new stone guard (never polished) after 1400 miles.... note the adjacent fender is in great shape! For what it's worth, I covered my forward facing fenders with Llumar12 ClearMask paint protection film. But left the aluminum bare. So far it is holding up very well, and the aluminum vouches for my blat time. I think it is worthwhile trying this film on your polished stone guards. I almost did this but in the end did not want to polish them. Please let us know your results. cheers P.

By hook or by crook... I plan to be there - AND with my Birkin for once

Can anyone recommend or weigh in (good, bad, indifferent) on tuning shops/people in Connecticut ? (either here or via PM) Fwiw i'm using a haltech sport ecu. P.

RD, I do not mean to hijack your thread. But see you are in CT and must tell you Route 7 along the housatonic river up to Lime Rock was an absolutely beautiful blat this afternoon (hidden benefit of working weekends). This weekend's weather forecast is brisk but good.... ps: Beautiful seven, good luck! cheers p.

If you've got the plastic part I've probably got a spare. For the aluminum water outlet connector, I used rtv and have not had any problems

- inspired by BusaNostra: I took advantage of a beautiful fall day (unfortunately it was a bit more cloudy than yesterday, which was perfect except for a broken pulley...)

I think the same switches are used on both birkin & caterham cars. I recommend making sure wire terminals are soldered and crimped to make them bomproof. with regards to switches themselves, the car builder solutions catalog has a good selection. - while i still have my scuttle off replacing my spedo today, PM me if you have more specific wiring questions. p.

Narrow body birkin: ~1275 dry.

I concur. When originally looking for a seven, pointers, tips, and off hand comments in the forum were invaluable. Here too subtle observations: "the left hand widget was not made until '85 for a car advertised as oem '64..." can help others make informed decisions. Besides, the commentary improves our morning coffee

It can't be done in my Birkin (without removing the engine). I've had my oil pain on/off without removing the timing cover (which is a pain d/t the crankshaft pulley torque and shaft not being keyed). However I expect you'll still have bell housing to oil pan bolts that can't be removed in the car. - The best technique I've found is to raise the car and lower engine/gearbox out the bottom. - good luck