coffee break

Let us know how much your arms ach and if the power steering pump puked! :puke:

I'm more interested in rebuilding this box, but replacing it with a 5 speed could be an option, it would depend on what other changes would be required... clutch, hydrolic vs cable, drive shaft etc.

I got my 7 back from the shop and they made the Webers behave much better. The motor would get to 5500 and go FLAT, and now it zips to 6500 with no problem... except, 3rd is hard to find if I'm tacking it up or down shifting. A few months ago the tranny started to get hard to shift, so I pulled the filler plug to check the level. It was low. I added gear oil, over filling a little because it will leave a drop or two when it sits. Investigation time. I pulled the fill plug to drain off the excess. It was 3 oz. I checked the bottle of gear oil and I had added 13 oz., so it was 10 oz. low. The spec is 0.9 litre, about 30 oz. Since the chassis has about 7k miles on it, the car isn't broken in yet. It's a 1995 chassis that was assembled in 1998. Since I am at least the 4th owner, there is some history missing. I have in the documentation a proposal from Texas Motor Works, that might be for this car. I'm not sure. Any, I'm wondering what transmission I have and who can rebuild it. According to the build manual it is from the Ford (UK) Escort MkII. It is described as a close ratio with clutch cable, integral bellhousing and one piece rear gear lever extension casting. I'm also wondering if it was used when it was installed (it doesn't matter at this point.) Here are a few photos.

The owner of the shop I used for my 7 was telling me about a V8 Hayabusa in 7 chassis. Something like 420HP! It may be on youtube.

I guess there would be a lot less wind resistance if there was only the roll hoop be hind the driver only, like the F5000. But then you couldn't scare the crap out of passengers. :devil: :ack:

Are the real deal or reproductions. Some people spending crazy money may get fooled by the bling factor. :drool::drool::drool:

This particular discussion area is "Off Topic". "Off" can take many different directions, some more pleasant or offensive depending on ones particular point of view and personal beliefs. As long as the discussions remain civil, I'm good with it.

I don't think the % applies to the entire population, only those interviewed/polled. I'm sure the USA has its' share of nut job supporters.

Cranky, It looks like there is enough space to seat the wheel. Keep after it. The attached photo relates to the problem I encountered. The clamp block had slid enough that it was hitting the mastercylinder and limited rotation. This happened when we were unloading the car off the trailer and was near to rolling off the side of the ramps. This was the first day I owned it. If there is a "good" time for this to happen, it was then. I went to make the adjustment to correct the interference and the grub screw failed. It has been replaced with a new one.

At the Isle of Man they have a cycle class for EVs. They do one lap (about 36 miles) and the winning average speed was 109MPH!

:iagree: I keep a selection of plugs to use.

The steering shaft on my car slipped in some. It turned out I needed to replace the grub (set) screw in the coupling near the brake master cylinder. It is a 7/16 - 14 UNC (if I remember correctly)

I left my car at a shop for some problem solving. The owner gave me a ride back home in his MGB. It was so civilized to ride in a car with DOORS! It has given me some more inspiration to build some door like attachments. :auto:

You know your a motorhead when you have one of these. A "WEBER DCOE" salt & pepper shaker https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11541&utm_source=201408-2&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=201408-2

At no time have my fingers left my hands. :blueangel:

Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease don't cut me off!!!!!! :blush: Besides I drop the crossflow off at the shop. It has a bad flat spot @5500rpm. :ack:

Sounds like the mechanicals are gummed up. Alcohol or other solvent can loosen up the gunk. Be careful protect adjacent surfaces from the solvent. There is (most likely) a ball or two that engage the steering shaft. Once it/they are freed up and working, a little light oil should keep parts moving properly.

Hey Admin guys, haven't seen any spam crap. :spam: Good work! :party: (Hope I didn't jinx it) :jester:

At least they used a car with the good engine sound!

John, I've looked at the 304 SS versions of that hinge, thanks for the confirmation. I'll look up McMaster-Carr's address. What plastic are you working with, ie type & thickness? Carl

When I'm out for an extended blat, I use goggles and a leather helmet http://www.steampunkemporium.com/store/005163S.php along with earplugs. I have noticed, if I cup my hand over my right ear (in my RHD car, it's most exposed to the wind) the buffeting is reduced. I'm thinking about finding/fabricating shells to cover my ears under the leather helmet to be a barrier. Sort of like the head gear wrestlers wear.

Better to do it ahead of time, better than finding out with blue lights flashing. Thankx

Do you have links for these items?

I have 2 sets of goggles for driving. They keep the debris from the road out of my eyes. I got one set from https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/home.asp that fit over glasses. The other came from a Army/Navy store. I don't have any wind deflectors made yet and I have found my vision gets blurry at 80mph. Also, ear plugs for wind noise.

Being human is a flawed existence. Emotions can get the better of us and it can lead to unfortunate and tragic results. A person in a black outfit, a slit second on a poorly lit track and a cloud of dust, just enough time to go very wrong. No one comes out unchanged.