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coffee break

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Everything posted by coffee break

  1. It's not a 3 minute egg but I've been boiling parts. The radiator fan switch closes around 190F. The switch has four number groupings stamped on the flat surface. One of the numbers is 92, I would guess that is for 92C. I did a side by side test with the installed thermostat and the new out of the box 180F unit. The new part opened around 182F and the old one around 185F and did not open as much as the new unit. So, in with the new and figure out a manual override to be over cautious.
  2. For starters, pull the core out and measure L, W, H and make a sketch with the location and size of the connecting tubes. It can help when looking for generic applications of heater cores.
  3. The Pegasus set-up looks good. I will need to see if my car has a fan relay or if the switch directly controls the 15A fan circuit. Thanks Anker
  4. Is the heat insulation on the footwells and tunnel an option or a factory standard item. Good idea either way.
  5. I removed the existing thermostat and it is marked "180". I think I will install the new one of the same value. The fan switch is a puzzle, not much on the markings. The OD of the thread is .859" and the thread gauge that fits it best is 18 TPI. The threads are not tapered as pipe threads are. I'm thinking about adding an override switch I can use to turn on the fan if the elevated temps reoccur.
  6. Bob, Thanks for the pix. Do you have any more of the sideways VW bus? :smilielol5: Carl
  7. I confirmed the function of the fan switch. It closes around 190F. I picked up two new thermostats to replace the existing one. The suggested one is a 180F and the alternate is 160F. Any down sides to going with the lower temp part?
  8. John, Thank you for confirming the sanity* level required to be a 7er. Well done. Carl * or lack there of
  9. In the past the fan has keeped the coolant temp at 85c. I jumped the wires that go to the switch and the fan came on. I guess I'll boil the switch and see what the multimeter tells me.
  10. I could use some help identifying the radiator fan switch on my 1600 crossflow. Last time out the water temp was above what it should be. Coolant level was good. Suggested vendor? Thanks y'all
  11. I guess the Vett doesn't scratch the itch.
  12. “Lotus 7 AmericaLotus 7948cc BMC A-Series That's a big ass motor.:smilielol5:
  13. Is there an auto parts store near to you that has an alt. tester? I don't remember if you said anything about that earlier.
  14. Yes, people are drawn to shinny objects. It also depends on who you are looking to sell it to. Shinny and clean cars are better for the street, C&C, car shows and track cars not so much.
  15. I thought I heard an "aaaarrrrgggghhhh" today. Keep on posting photos of clean and shiny motor parts. :drool:
  16. FWIW I put on a set of The Dunlap Direzza ZIII 14" recently. They are like glue compared to the 8 year old all season tires they replaced. I have no plans for track or autoX, so I can't give you any feedback on that subject. I don't expect I'll wear then out since it's a fair weather car and so light. The only item of note is they pick up more pebbles and stuff.
  17. So, you got the package for the long block not the induction system?
  18. With noting the age of the car, many connections are plugs and sockets. There is corrosion that will build up over time. My example are indicator lights in instruments and on the dash. The lights were not coming on. Upon examination, the bulb(s) were fine, reinstalled, working. Simple unpluging and pluging back can have enough friction to burnish the contacts. Also, John's suggestions sound good.
  19. For those who are looking for an enclosed car hauler but don't want a trailer... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-gmc-motorhome-car-hauler/ (I can't figure why it isn't hypertext)
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