11Budlite

There's no fan switch in the radiator. There's an ECU temp sensor in the back of the cylinder head and a coolant temp gauge sensor in the "submarine" right below it. The ECU signals when to turn the fan on. I believe it's ECU pin 33. The owners manual has the following relays listed for models 270/310/Academy: 1: Ignition 2: Lights 3: Indicator 4: Hazard 5: Starter 6: Fuel Pump 7: Cooling Fan I've checked for continuity between the the cooling fan black/green wire to the '87' terminal of the relays and haven't found anything yet. Still only see 6 relays. I've attached a photo of the fuse panel and the ECU temp sensor.

If I figure out which is the correct relay I'm sure I could figure it out. When I get home I'll get access to the ECU wiring/plug and see what I can find there. Pg 156-160 of this manual is what I've been using:

Thanks guys. I have an owners manual, build manual(s), and a Sigma wiring diagram. The wiring diagram I have shows 7 relays and I can only find 6 on my car. From what I can tell, there is an ECU temp sensor in the back of the cyl head that sends a variable temp signal to the ECU, which sends a signal to the relay at the correct temp, which in turn will turn on the cooling fan. I believe the signal from the ECU is switched ground. I do have the EasiMap cable setup coming from SBD to help diagnose the issue. It's very frustrating because the engine is brand new and I don't want it to overheat.

I'm trying to determine why my cooling fan hasn't switched on. Originally, the sensor wire for the temp gauge and the gas gauge were switched so I was getting some funky readings on those two gauges. After fixing that issue, I drove it in the colder months and didn't expect the cooling fan to come on so wasn't too concerned. Come spring time and some warmer weather and the cooling fan still hasn't come on. I've bled all the air out of the system again, installed a different gauge with better resolution than the stock Caterham gauge, both upper and lower hoses are getting hot, all wiring to the ECU temp sender/gauge sender/cooling fan appear to be okay, and the cooling fan runs when I jump it. I now have the scuttle off and have better access to the wiring and relays. I've attached 3 photos of the the relays I can find. One is a 4-relay block attached to the bulkhead, 1 is cable-tied in front of the speedo, and 1 is cable-tied in front of the tach. From memory the wire to the cooling fan is black with a green tracer. I don't see that wire coming from any of the relays. Does anyone know what relay is the cooling fan relay?

Caterham 420R review. I don't think this one has been posted yet:

John - This should be the link: https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/chandler-lotus-super-seven-by-dsk/7462733341.html

Here's an illustration of the DSK space frame chassis showing the added reinforcing tubes.

There were some early Lotus Seven S2 that were available with cycle wings in the UK market. I don't think they were ever available in the US because we got the clamshells. This photo showing what they look like is from the Lotus Seven Register Series 2 page.

That came out really nice!

Very cool, thanks for sharing! My son has a pretty nice drone that I thought it would be fun to do something similar.

Glad I could help!

Found a photo online that's from an Miata NC gearbox. It looks like that is a breather. It's basically a metal cap crimped over a fitting that's threaded into the gearbox case.

Are you sure that's not a breather? I'm at work so I don't have access to my build photos so I can't tell for sure.

There's a short section in this video showing how the factory fits the rear panel around the chassis, and welding the rear panel to the side panels. It starts at 3:45 and goes to around 5:45. I've never removed any panels from a Seven but I agree with what Tim said above. Also, some good info here on restoring a Seven: https://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/7-johnson-restore/seven1.htm And here: https://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/7-hamai-restore/projseve.htm

I really enjoy your updates Henry, your Seven looks great!

Unfortunately I couldn't find the drawing of the engine mount for the A-series. It must have been saved on my previous PC and didn't get moved to my new one. I did find this photo from a BAT auction which shows the mount pretty clearly.

I have some photos and a drawing of the A-series engine mount bracket that I can post for you when I get home. I'm not sure what else was specific from a Spridget-powered Seven. I have a S2 replica vintage racing chassis that is set up for a Ford X-flow that I could send you some photos if you were interested.

I picked up a set of these: https://www.racecareng.com/item/1580358-chassis-dollies?category=115994 Check out some more info here:

Bart - I can't help you because I have a narrow track S3, but I did notice the difference in the two manuals when it came to the wide track. I set mine up 2-2-2. I thought this thread had some good info: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/front-suspension-dilemma 1. Are you saying you don't have any (or enough) chamfered washers to assy your car? I didn't notice any plastic washers supplied with mine. 2. I think I would try 0-4-0 first for a track oriented car to get some more caster. More experienced track drivers should be able to give better advice.

Fuel Safe makes a 5 and 7 gallon version for Lotus Sevens. https://fuelsafe.com/sa113-b/

My 2019 310 has an inertia switch and I'm pretty sure they've been standard for a while. Probably on all the fuel injected motors.

Some photos of a Series 1 with cage kindly provided to me by @Christopher smith.

Thanks @CarlB