11Budlite

Tom - I don't have the paint code for the chassis, but this could provide some info: https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19688&start= Sounds like there were different shades of grey used over the years. If the engine is a med/dark green it's the early Spridget color that's available from Moss and others: https://mossmotors.com/spray-paint-engine-dark-green I'm not sure if there's a code available to mix and spray your own but I'm sure if you had a clean part it could be matched. I have some of the Moss Spridget dark green paint at home that I've used on my old Bugeye Sprite motor and it came out well. Oh yea, we need some updated photos too!

I think I read they were the ZT7 model. I think the tread wear rating on those is around 200-240 but can't verify at work.

I'd like to see that!

Thanks for the update Skip.

To add to what others have said. If your car is a deDion (I think it is IIRC) then I'm pretty sure you have to remove the diff to get the driveshaft out of the tunnel. The tunnel top should just pull up with the gearknob removed and the handbrake pulled all the way up. Although there could be a couple screws holding it to the tunnel towards the rear. In my old Birkin I fabricated some 3/8" stainless steel hard lines through the tunnel and had flexible lines to hook to the fuel pump/filter in the back and the fuel rail in the front. I didn't like the idea of using all flexible lines from front to rear but others have done it succesfully without issue. The tranny fill plug is on the left side of the case and hopefully there's an access plug in the driver's footwell if you can't access it from below. Should be a 10mm allen IIRC.

New retro Caterham model being introduced. Not sure if it'll be available in the US: https://www.lotus7.club/news/caterham-launches-latest-retro-themed-model-%E2%80%93-super-seven-1600 And here: https://www.thenew-oldschool.com/

I'm pretty sure these wheels are the later 4 x 108 PCD and not the Triumph Spitfire based 4 x 3.75. A quick measurement could confirm. And the width and offset should be on the back of the wheel.

From what I can tell, the 8172 is the one-wire alternator set up for an ign warning light which would require those two other wires besides the main charge cable if you want to have a working charge light (see photo below). How many terminals are on the alternator besides the main charge cable, is it two or three? I can't tell from your photo. And is there any identification letters near the those terminals?

Greg - See if this helps you at all: https://www.purplemeanie.co.uk/index.php/2017/08/25/email-4-washer-bottle-in-the-boot/

I noticed the same thing Ian. Try this link: https://www.caterhamcars.com/en

Congrats on starting your build. Looks like a nice spec! I just recently sold my 64 MGB and a lawn tractor so have a little more room in my garage. Hope to be starting my 310S build pretty soon!

Not sure if this was posted before, but a nice article on a Caterham 310R build: https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a30349108/caterham-seven-310-project-one/?fbclid=IwAR1E31mNYjIhGFY-mmVL0pMU4r_BE8vnadro299oT890KmpFsL_MzQKB_M0

Another possibility: http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor-cap-clips.html

A nice article on the Lotus 37: https://www.bendsandcurves.com/2020/01/04/lotus-37-a-special-story-about-a-unique-sports-car/ Some of the photos I've never seen before.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!!

Didn't realize they were still using that original-type sway bar/upper control arm in 1997. Is that because it's a live axle car? Nice looking car either way.

Interesting article about Caterhams and winter driving: https://digitaledition.telegraph.co.uk/editions/edition_aEw91_2019-11-24/data/747370/index.html?share=1&WT.mc_id=tmgapp_inar_share&utm_source=tmgapp&utm_medium=inar&utm_content=share&utm_campaign=tmgapp_inar_share&Expires=1576972800&Signature=CTDdE2mPQ-Sa1jMcwlAwQlJ8wGY0ech~ZQb7XsNGe1guVFDicPFgH9JFDlpKTqYn6BIaFlUlaUHuBpTeiRVo6bk-mpSbcfiaGX77C56DGdA~R23X0raCLLpXyJoMWhUR5BbfBEoXIV1dEuhgi-o6Jw1Txn-wgA1wnKKgTUzjCOblpna5Yk-tOZ5VqtHBSbC-zfBpPBLZQNGi9k0I6SqJcXN2kWGq9ceTkra3qjqTTjOHPISE9rdc5jXq-EHdq04sP2evN4GSZu0Z6D~fIwzodgQhSUoxCtVUnfIBGWtzMC0n-6SndViXxoZI~b57NoXeomxc5p7e2rxdEkPaHyPaxA__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLCEPDGCTPVKXNOA

I'm not positive but I think there's supposed to be a snap-ring holding the male threaded part into the gearbox housing.

I don't have my notes handy but agree with the others. VW in the front with specially machined rotors, and I believe Honda (Civic/Accord?) in the rear. I'll see if I can find more info tonight. Some more info here: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?7241-Birkin-front-disk-brakes-(rotors)&highlight=birkin+brakes

A little more info on John Morton and his racing exploits with his 1st Seven. From Simple Sevens: http://www.simplesevens.org/1532/1532.htminvolvement

That makes more sense! The sloping rollbar should be angled forward like the one in the attached photo.

VAT included on the more expensive one.

Found it: http://lowflying.lotus7.club/2015/2015_01_01_Gearbox.pdf

Skip - From a copy of a magazine article, it's the Mazda M15M-D from the 2nd and 3rd generation Miata. Unfortunately I can't determine what magazine/issue, but it was based on an interview with Caterham's Simon Lambert.

Thanks for all the help guys...and for the laughs! I was planning on doing all the work I could do with it up on the stands and then lower it to the ground (or the lower axle stands) and then install the engine/transmission. I think I'm going to try them out because I can always use them on my vintage race chassis too when I start working on that. Or I might just get that lift I've always wanted if I could just get my garage done.....:banghead: