bball7754

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/04/21/business/lotus-eletre-suv-electric.html With quotes from Ross Robbins! 😊 Steve

Couldn’t find the website for the one in the US, but here is evidence that you are not alone. 😊 https://purplemeanie.co.uk Steve

I think I’ve read of people going to bicycle shops where they can replace the cable and retain the existing housing. Might be worth a call. Steve

I replaced mine ( S3- Crossflow) using a jack. It was fairly early in my ownership, and I remember it being a longer and more frustrating job than I expected. But, ultimately it worked.

Yes, the plan is to be at Blackhawk in June. Actually, the plan is to make the entire VSCDA season, which would be a first. My ownership of the Mallock has been, ummm….challenging. So, we’ll see how the season goes. Right now, I just want to get it all back together for Gingerman. Steve

Thanks. I had printed out a plumbing size sheet from BAT, and it seemed like the pump port was 3/8”, although I expected it to be 1/2”. So you think the hose end is also BSP? This is me at Blackhawk in 2020, so probably. 😊 That was right before the S2000 went flying by me.

Hoping the collective wisdom of this forum can solve my plumbing challenge. I had the Crossflow in my Mallock rebuilt, and the engine builder did not replace the fitting on the side of the engine block and one of the fittings on the front mounted oil pump with what I left him. So, I want to replace them with what matches the existing female hose ends. Think I have the block figured out. I need a 1/4” BSP male/-8 AN male fitting, and am confident on that one. The female hose end definitely is -8, and BSP seems correct for the engine block side. Titan no longer makes the front mount oil pumps, and can’t seem to find any literature that specifies the port size. But, it seems to be 3/8” BSP. It’s the female hose end that really has me stumped. It’s a convex female. A spare male/male adapter kicking around my garage seems to fit, but that style of fitting seems to be either NPTxNPT, BSPxBSP, or BSPxNPT. The female hose end is not chamfered, but is flat, so it’s not AN? Could it be metric? Or should I just replace the hose, and use a male/male 3/8”BSP/-8 AN with a -8 AN hose barb? All these fittings were on the car when I purchased it. I’m hardly Carroll Smith to begin with, and I HATE plumbing. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. First pic is the hose fitting in question, and the incorrect fitting in the pump as returned by the engine builder. Fourth pic is the fitting with a male/male adapter I had lying around that seemed to fit the hose end. Last pic is the incorrect fitting removed from the pump.

I mounted mine under the carbs. My ‘98 has a mounting bracket for the windshield washer fluid reservoir, which I never used, under the carbs. Removed the reservoir and drilled a few holes in the bracket for the pressure regulator. Steve

Are you pushing the entire hoist, or “swinging” the trans towards the engine? If you’re “swinging” it, then the height will change. Believe the last time I did this, I put the trans on my jack and balanced it with one hand while I moved the jack/trans towards the engine. Even easier to do it that way if you have another pair of hands. Thought I’d throw another option out there. 😊 Oh, and make sure you have both positioning dowels in either the block or the bellhousing. Steve

The racers use it to hoist the entire car by the roll bar, then put supports under the car.

Thought I’d throw this in the mix as an option, although probably not what you had/have in mind. https://www.mktechnologies.com/products/mkt/mkt_a-frame.htm Steve

Have you contacted Caterham in the UK about a key?

520 miles, St. Louis to Birmingham AL for LOG 29 in 2009. Rained for the first 3-4 hours, so started out with the full hood on. Other than that, no real excitement going or returning. Furthest drive for a track day was St. Louis to Hallet, 430 miles. I did loose a bolt on the alternator bracket, but a trip to Home Depot solved that. Knock on wood, I’ve never been stranded.

Will you peel down the protective covering before you rivet to avoid it being trapped under the rivet heads? Really enjoying this build thread, by the way. Steve

Michael - Agree, that sounds fair. I’ll give you a call tomorrow. Steve

Michael-I’m interested in the clam shells. Mine are pretty tired, and would like a backup set. Steve

Vin - Sorry, I didn’t do a very good job reading your post, and missed that you already have the SCAT crank. I also have roller rockers. The C/R is 9.91, but the only info Curtis gave me is that he got the pistons from Burtons in the UK. Don’t have any specifics. I would think that around 12 would be way too much for pump gas. I think the Crossflow in my Mallock is 12.5, and I use 110 race gas with it. Where are you on the Cape? My aunt had a house in Chatham where I spent several summers. Steve

Looks fantastic! Did you polish the ali before mounting the front suspension? If so (and I think you did), you will never again have that kind of access to that portion of the body. I always find that area a challenge. Steve

Vin - when I had my Crossflow rebuilt by Curtis Farley (now retired), he recommended that I replace my stock crank with a SCAT crank used in FF engines. I did, and have more peace of mind around 7k. I already had the 244 cam and a head with port work and larger valves. Added forged pistons and the crank. It’s been great, and still strong. Steve

In case you’re also looking for the Webers….. https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?88843-40DCOE-ITALIAN-Webers-and-Manifold-Kent-1600 Steve

I have nothing to add, other than this is why I hate plumbing! Steve

You might want to try Redline Components in the UK. Believe your best bet is a phone call. Steve

Not sure if it’s still true, but at one point the Caterham electrical OP gauges were known for failing or reading incorrectly. Mine did, and I took the advice at the time and replaced it with a mechanical gauge. No issues since. Steve

A mini Seven gets a mini build thread. 😊

I have no actual experience with removing the body panels, but I would think it would be extremely difficult to remove them without damaging them. I don’t think it’s the kind of project that is considered “maintenance”. Drilling out the rivets will enlarge the diameter of the whole in both the panel and the chassis. Also, the flared part of the rivet will remain inside the chassis tubes, creating a giant rattle. Although I doubt you could hear it, it has been cited as an area of concern on Blatchat. What year is your Seven? Is there a reason you are concerned with the state of the chassis? Steve