Sean

What the heck is the point of the members-only For Sale section? This non-member has clearly circumvented the rule, as his only three posts are in this thread in the For Sale section advertising his car for sale. :ack:

I am a "Chapman-esque" 5'7", 155 lbs, and size 7-½ shoe. This has put me at a disadvantage in most aspects of my life growing up in the USA, but serves me well in a Seven. So I am going to seize this rare opportunity to say, respectfully, "Screw all you tall, fat B******s!" :seeya:

A friend lives in Big Sur. Rain has now washed out a road to the north and a road to the south of the house in which she lives, and the only way in or out is by helicopter ($70 each way). Fortunately, because the residents in this area are aware of the possibility of this type of thing happening and of the lack of alternate roads available to use as a detour, she has adequate provisions to stick it out for a few days until the roads can be repaired and re-opened. That's the price one has to pay to live in such a remote area.

On a S3, the steering rack has to be rotated into j-u-s-t the right orientation for it to work. But it works.

Yeah, especially as he was on PCH between LA and SF, turning back towards Kansas on pretty much any road along through there is going to be a good one.

What is it about guys named Jethro and overconfident driving in 4WD vehicles?

ISTR that Cosworth in the UK use two (2) roller barrel throttle body doohickeys, each feeding two (2) cylinders, whereas Cosworth Racing in the USA use the one (1) long roller barrel throttle body doohickey that feeds all four (4) cylinders, as Karl has on his engine. Cosworth UK may or may not have changed to the single unit, I don't know, but it appears Cosworth Racing is still using it. That is the only difference of which I am aware.

I just remembered one more thing - The oil filter/oil cooler assembly provided with the Cosworth 2.3 motor interfered with the lower chassis rail on the left side in a Caterham S3 installation, so I replaced it with one of the Raceline horizontal oil filter mounts, which required a different oil cooler to be used. Sorry Karl; I'd have told you sooner, but I forgot all about that one. edit -- the oil filter should not be an issue for a SV chassis. edit -- this thread has seriously outgrown the For Sale forum!

Wrong day for that!

Karl, I speak from experience - the YD8048 loom will fit with ZERO issues. If they send you the YD8111 loom, it will not fit. edit -- one potential engine loom issue is if the sensor (MAF sensor, I believe) in the airbox is on the bottom, it can be tricky to route the harness connector to it, but it can be done. Or you can relocate the sensor, but the point is that it can be remedied one way or another without too much pain. If the sensor is on the top of the airbox, no issue.

If you have ordered the Caterham-specific engine wiring harness (Cosworth P/N YD8048), it should be plug 'n' play to this connector on your vehicle loom: http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/7%20Build%20Issues/IFcon-veh.jpg

This thread may be helpful. I don't think you should send the picture to Ben.

The change-over year to this style of "roll over bar" (as Caterham calls them) was 2003. Probably best to contact Ben at RMSCI for a definitive answer. This is known as the FIA bar, and there is (or used to be) a "tall" version available as well, which gave another 2" height.

Oops, I forgot - like Tom's, mine is also dry sumped (standard on Cosworth 250-spec 2.3). I had to modify the oil filler cap to be flush with the top of the cam cover and trim some material from the air filter mounting tabs. Unlike Tom's, I have the short input shaft on my T9, which locates the engine just a bit further rearward, necessitating modification of the TPS to avoid fouling the pedal box, and removing material from one side of the bellhousing due to interference with the driver's side footbox. Wow, I guess I left out quite a bit, but they were all pretty simple changes. Thanks for the reminder, Tom! edit - Tom's car is better looking than mine, particularly under the bonnet. The cam cover in particular looks fantastic, and is a functional replacement piece rather than an add-on.

My S3 has the 2.3, which j-u-s-t fits. I had to remove the decorative c/f cover to get the bonnet on, but that thing was just adding weight anyway.

I have family living in Yokohama, which is maybe 260-290 miles from the epicenter (about the distance between Palmerston North and Christchurch, I reckon). They described the shaking as significant, with some buildings knocked down in the area where they live, but only a few fatalities. They heard on the radio that the shock wave was coming about 10-15 seconds before it arrived. None of my family or anyone we know were harmed. Big power! - from a Los Angeles Times article: REF: http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-sci-japan-quake-science-20110313,0,5782113.story

Following are some gear sources, but all UK-based: http://www.spcomponents.co.uk http://www.bghgeartech.co.uk http://www.quaife.co.uk While you have the gearbox out, you may want to consider getting an O2 bung for a couple of bucks and welding it into the top as a filler, like this: http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/7%20Build%20Issues/Gboxtop1.jpg

Excerpt from article published in 2009: Full article here. Gawk on, brothers.

http://www.burtonpower.com/

For the zombie thing, you could have just bought some brain-flavored zombie mints here - $2.50 for 100. http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/smileys/afdbsmiley.gif As for the Mayans, if they were so dang smart, why did their society perish in the seventeenth century? Their calendar may as well have stopped at 1699. :seeya: edited to add: cool truck!

http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5980

I disagree, in that I believe it only takes a few kinds, and we're just stuck with the rest of 'em. But I do agree about not belittling them, or anyone else.

Karl, Just curious - Do you know the compound of the set of ZZRs you have (sold)?

I see nothing to gain by going to 15" wheels.

A little self-fusing silicone tape will make any connector waterproof, and because it is not really tape (no adhesive - just bonds to itself only), it comes off cleanly. Sold under a variety of names; Lots of uses. I carry a roll in my car. A bit expensive, but very useful. Seen it at Home Depot, among other places, but a more reasonable price here: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/2725/Motorcycle_Supplies