IamScotticus

What I do with all my scuttles is drill out the front firewall rivets and replace them with aluminum rivet nuts and screws. Makes the top access much easier. Since you will be drilling and riveting on the dash, you might as well do this job too.

In UK its Chris Mintoft at Redline Components. https://redlinecomponents.co.uk/product-category/body/panels/fibreglass/ In the USA it's Wava Utt at info@motorsportcomposites.com.(no website) 2133 County Road W Grafton, WI 53024 262-375-1930 Fb: https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057251658811&name=xhp_nt__fblite__profile__tab_bar&profile_tab_item_selected=about Wava Utt has made S3 and Cat reproductions, but I don't know if they have S2. You could try some of the restoration guys here like Christopher Tchorznicki at Sevens&Elans, RD Enterprises, Tony Ingram at Lotus7.com Also search the wanted/for sale fourm here for previous offerings that may still have some parts.

I didn't know "Tickety-Boo" was a thing!

If originality is the goal, my suggestion is not helpful. Racetech (UK) have a 80mm electronic speedo and tach set. The speedo is capable of GPS and motion sensor (magnetic?). This makes ths elimination of the speedo cable possible. The electronic versions are only available in black face and bezel, for now. Imagine life without a cable! I have heard that Smiths had a GPS speedo, but I haven't seen it and the online store fronts haven't been helpful. I need to do more Googling on it.

I just think the video is well done for a perfect 7 https://youtube.com/shorts/xoJ-6WvpZKA?si=8JTLP5tBLjUn4WvH

B9905... is a serial #. You don't have a Cat part # etched in the tube underside flat?

User name...

Change USA7s to Bring A Trailer? That's not happening 🤔 Auction 7s on USA7s? And discuss them here like they do on BAT? There is a lot of lively talk on BAT. Nice idea but way too much work to admin. There is a lot of talk about the auction cars in Mike's list of 7s for sale thread. That thread could be cleaned up by moving talk about the cars to to a dedicated thread for discussion about auction cars but I doubt the majority of users will observe it. Like the General Discussion and General Tech, almost any technical topic will get posted in General Discussion because it's "General". For the majority of users, there's no point in having a excessive subject structuring. The forum needs to remain simple and friendly. Like the car.

Welcome. It's a good forum. I think the SV is a good choice. Many will be interested in your car. You DID get the flared front wings, like a proper 7 should have, didn't you? 🧐 😄

Welcome to the forum. Whereabouts in Tejas? Who's your Cat dealer? What SV spec? Sweating it out with you 🥵 Scott

Ths Offy rocker covers are cool.

When I was driving, I had the SPA sides and mirrors for Sevens at center and found the combination of all to be useless. I realized with no top, I had no need for them. Use the eye balls more. I have a custom bracket the SPAs bolted to, which used a pin through the door hinges on the forward edge, and the rear edge hooked around the stanchion. The benefit is they are easily removable.

There was Mirrors For Sevens, a 1" thick louvered type. No longer made. CNCd from plastic and clip to top of screen. A car on BAT recently had one. I think the Dreamer has one. I have one.

Great song. Yea, the fade could be at start up

Guys, Does motorcycle fluid still come with dye?

Which aluminum tank? You need the coolant overflow tank. It doesn't have to be where it is, but you need one. BUT! A translucent tank/bottle is better so you can see the level. A $5 radiator cap can be the death of your Xflow (a lost a Subaru to a blown cap). The standard Caterham bottle with the bracket (edit wirh source later) is a good one. Or JAZ has good bottles.

Great point and something novices typically don't know about. What would be a sufficient front Ujoint angle? Side note,my live axle angle, coilover and top mount, are set at about 95°. I assume this is to maintain angle throughout the range of motion?

Can you have the plate digits on a vinyl wrap across the nose?

Not stopping, low pressure.

I spoke with the Cobra seats dealer in California yesterday. I may have called him earlier. He says he never had any demand for them and doesn't believe the costs would allow this seat to be a viable option. I suggested a ten seat order, which he flat dismissed. I don't know the prices, but I'm guessing for him to be this opposed, prices might be over $800 per seat. That would price most out. Need to call the Florida dealer. Somebody here needs to make a run of seats. @wddfour what is your chassis year, spec, and floor chassis tube spacing?

Here is my black rack. I think it is longer than the blue rack. Just sayin'. I affixed tape on the shaft at 90° for both right and left lock. The other arrows are the stop angles for R&L plus 360°. Like 1.75 turns L2L. Due to my current circumstances, it will take time to get to my blue rack to do the test. I'm sure someone has a blue rack to help you. Model #, not serial. Serial is stamped elsewhere 90° from both R&L full lock. Not true middle. Left turn: Right turn: So, for R&L turns, add 360° and divide by half. Is this a quick rack? IDK.

Here's a Caterham Xflow mount on a XKE isolator. Yes, those are fan blades. Three holes in the frame. Simple. And you need simple. But the Birkin mount is superior in that it resists sway better. The XKE isolators go soft quickly in this car. But If you can't locate Birkins, I think the Caterham/Lotus type is easier to fab. I will have to see if XKE isolators are available in a more durable rubber. Lately they have been known to be produced taller in height than what 7s use. Either taller or the rubber doesn't compress for the engine to settle at normal height. So I have read. I have new isolators I will have to compare. But this isn't a problem for anyone building new brackets.

Ted, is there an OBD port?

@3Ducs My first idea is yank out the oil cooler. Shouldn't need it in NH. Un-clutter and un-complicate. Then I would relocate that coolant catch can and consider putting the XKE mounts there. When the engine comes in, and you get it staged up in the bay, centered with a bubble level across the thermostat housing and resting on the transmission mount and a floor jack under the pan (I would do a steel pan before a dry sump), exhaust connected, intake connected and bonnet and nose attached, set your height to allow for 1/2" setting and mock up engine mounts with PVC pipe and PVC 1/4" thick base board. These will glue together with pvc cement. Take this to a welder buddy to fab. I think building a mount for XKE type mounts will be simpler to construct. This has to be dead last because you must route around the oil pump and exhaust. With the Birkin, although close, don't expect Caterham mounts to be the right length. Although, I think they might come close enough to be able to shim the engine sides. Transmission mount location and engine setback will need attention. What transmission and bellhousing were used? Is a Birkin tunnel able to clear a T5 transmission? It's probably easier to find a T5 than a T9 or Escort 4spd. I will send you pics of my xflow mounts.

If I can get the Cobra seats in black piping, anyone interested?