IamScotticus

Here is a USA source for these parts. I got a response from Motorsport composites in Wisconsin that they do have moulds for all wings and nose and are willing to manufacture. I have their permission to mention them on the forum. They don't have a website but do have a FB page. They can do color gelcoat by request at additional cost, but the default colors are black and white. I will add that these guys have been in the business a long time, at least 20 years, so there is no question they know what they're doing. Here is the email copy sans prices, as I believe pricing should be a private negotiation between parties. We have three different versions of a Lotus nose -- The 7 Series LS-II, DSK7 and the Caterham CS3. We have two versions of the front fenders -- The LS-II and 7/CS3. They are quite similar to each other, with only subtle differences. For rear fenders, we have either 9.5" wide or 11" wide. The 9.5" are universal. We have two different 11", which are very similar to each other. One is designated as CS3, the other as 7/DSK. I am told that the CS3 parts were for a special version developed by Carroll Shelby. If you would like to see the slight differences between the different fenders, let me know and I will dig out some pics. Noses are $XXX in fiberglass, $XXX in kevlar. Front or rear fenders are $XXX each in fiberglass, $XXX in kevlar. Carbon parts are also available upon request. Thanks, Wava Utt Motorsport Composites 2133 County Road W Grafton, WI 53024 262-375-1930 info@motorsportcomposites.com

I'd like to put this out for considering by everyone, not pointed at anyone. No forum etiquette here..🫣 A 7 is a very fun car to drive with a <100hp engine, especially if kept light and the wheel widths within 4"-5". The live axle is perfect for this level of power and if not loaded with extra weight, as in a brace, is lighter than a de Dion suspension, and definitely the Standard 10 (I don't know the English axle weight). A good set of dampers, brake proportioning and sway bar can do wonders. Why push these axles to their limits? Why wear them out or risk breakage? Anyone wanting more power and grip should get a deDion car; there are plenty around and parts are still available. To back up my opinion, when I bought my 7, it came with a Zetec. I got rid of it and put in a Xflow partly because I had a live axle. But mostly because I love the old tech which doesn't need a laptop to dial in. Why is this reasoning important? It's to realize that a 7 is a small, light, and adorable car. We get into them for two reasons: to have a fun spirited blat and to get attention. Yes, it's very narcissistic. Also, ths car represents an important part of automobile history. The 7 is a 1%er car. Therefore, driving it, and keeping it within its limitations is very prudent to keep the 7 and you from damage. A live axle 7 should be kept under 100hp. You will enjoy it and it will last. And it probably doesn't require a brace.

@ianashdown Sending PM

That's a good idea. Which model?

I am getting closer to deciding to remove my brace plate. Not for alignment reasons, and I don't plan on going over 150hp, but for safety. My brace plate is a big knife ready to slice into the gas tank if I get squished.

Protect the parts and use a lever to press the bar in. I tried this, as my SB is presently detached. I found if I pressed in then pushed the bracket down, I can finger the bolts in the bracket There appears to be a spring in the socket putting tension on the ball. I am curious if this tension is necessary?

Read: Link to Triumph Spitfire, Marima/Ital & 4spd TR7 for pumpkin parts. General consensus is other than axle length and splines, many diff parts interchange. Rimmer Bros is your friend. Many parts on Moss, Spitbits, etc.

There is a new (new to me) F&C place at Kemah boardwalk https://www.fishandchipshouston.com/ The Bayview Duck would have been better, but, all things must pass eventually. Thanks Bayview Duck for all the great Bangers & Mash, Shepherds pies and Moody Blues cover acts. Moving forward, the area has much to offer for the southern blatter. Even for a lazy 7 owner like me, (good) F&C is enough of a motivation to get on with it. If not, I have a trailer. Just throwing this out for any bites 🐟+🍟+🍺

Oh I'm in the wrong region

Did you get a gelcoat match?

Delete

Go remote https://www.borlainduction.com/gallery/gallery_detail.aspx?gallery_cat_id=2&gallery_id=19#popUp Now ain't that purdy?

No spark, check all grounds, engine to chassis, alternator housing, distributor housing, if electronic dizzy, then advance plate to housing also (for others). In 7s everything can shake loose. Plug wire crimps, alternator connections, throttle cable, clutch cable at fork, brake R clips . And then there's corrosion. Fun times.

Early 80s would be Escort axle. The Itals weren't used until the long cockpit, being an 83, its too early for those. But being 3.75, you probably got an Ital/Marina anyway. I didn't know Raceline built engines.

You might have a 1965-1968 S2 Lotus SB 2102-2310. The clue is on the plaque. Also the rear seat bulkhead top is a round tube, Lotus or Early Cat. Someone paneled it. A lot of Caterham parts, it may have been built up from a basket case. The dash and side gussets do look very Caterham. The engine water rail is a Raceline part, but the engine isn't built by Raceline. I would like to see more of the axle and steering rack pedestal. Is this a threaded bung? A bung here will be Caterham for the spare tyre bracket. Maybe not early Cat. The wheels look like TR7, or similar. Measure the lug nut PCD . 3.75"= Triumph/Austin/Morris. 4.25"=Ford.

For the next hose installation, consider using a spring clamp or other non-wormgear type

There are several different flared wing stays used in Cats. Yes I know, year model information would be appreciated.

I found out, nobody but Americans call them "clamshells"

@Geowiz I ask what YOU have because Caterham made a lot of changes and used different flared wing stays for different chassis types. Specific things need to be discovered to get you an accurate answer. Year of manufacturing, Chassis type (deDion or live axle), Distance of headlamp mount bracket from front of chassis rail. The picture there shows a round tube wing stay which usually indicates a deDion chassis. But I'm not certain that was always the case.

What do you have?

500 cars. I doubt they will stop there. I'll wait for the Mexico edition. Right

Yes! Tony Weale's book is a must https://www.amazon.com/Lotus-Seven-Preparation-Restoration-Maintenance/dp/185532153X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1HDNYOF53C816&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QOkmIaYqAgo1KUXwrYwa1A.0jVhqJiVWjqDi7vTRVmv6pMcsw3auMRT7jirEj5XQdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=Tony+Weale+Lotus+7&qid=1736527033&sprefix=tony+weale+lotus+7%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-1

Forget that. This is a race car. Use the best parts available today.

A side note, the link I posted to those bike carbs isn't the only bike option out there, it's just the first one I found. Shop around. The other option I would suggest is the old downdraught 32/36 or 32 DFV. This would be a loss of performance and a hole in the bonnet, or a new bonnet so you don't have to ruin your present one. Getting the engine to run on a single carb should be easy, it's all the other bits to accommodate it that are the pain. It's a fringe choice, but the end result should be a solid and drivable carb. A very enjoyable car.

I would do motorcycle carbs. https://danstengineering.co.uk/Ford-Crossflow-37mm-Bike-Carburettor-Starter-Kit