IamScotticus

These 7s were imported by Texas Motor Works for thier Corinthian Racing Club. They were mimimalist race specific orders, usually the Scholarship "Classic" race spec with fuel bladders, areo screens, Ital axle and Escort Sport 4 spd boxes on the last of the new crossflow engines available anywhere. These were bare bones long cockpits with the uprated front top wishbone, but little else. In my opinion, these were the cheapest Caterhams offered at the time, but they were closer to an original Lotus 7 than the rest of the lineup. This was Graham Nearn's sawn song, giving the people what they wanted, a simple seven to race.

Your car and mine both came in together through Moto / Tex Motor Works that year. I might even have a picture of it then. Dick Brink was THE MAN!

Spec says 1600 Sprint but 4 into 1 headers are usually a 1700 thing

Consult a Customs Broker who knows Canadian customs law. AND what is required for U.S. customs for the return. I should know, Im in the business, sort of... But I don't know that side of the business well enough to advise you except that I have seen several instances of people loosing thier goods because they tried to do it themselves. NO. Seek professional help from the people who do this everyday and know the rules.

Hows this guy doing?

this is from a 1996 manual but the fuse block looks similar we need to know the specific build of your car.

I don't know about early Ford, But on my 95 wirh Aldon dizzy I have Caterham branded wires. Primary: Cable OD 7.5 mm Crimp OD 8.5mm Secondary: Cable OD 7.5mm Crimp OD 8mm Dizzy socket ID 8.5mm

Yea, Web guy, merge these

4 terminals is nice

Handy tip- Zip tie around the HT boots on the distribution cap so they don't shake loose. Everything has to be tied or wired down on a 7. Calliper pin R clips, DCOE cover wing nuts, etc.

I may have one. PM

Kind of a special personal thing lately. I finally got a book I've been obsessing over for 37 years. Now that everything is available on the internet, it wasn't hard to find a copy. This book in my high school library on the Lotus family wasn't my first exposure to the brand, but it is probably the introduction to the 7 that made the permanent impression. It is here the 7 obsession started. Other Lotus cars were very cool, but There was (and is) something about the 7 that it is simple enough of a performance car to be exotic yet also accessible and affordable. I've often considered the head on pic of an S3 to be the best 7 photo I've ever seen. Slightly over exposed, but a perfect picture of a perfect 7.

Shocking..

Yep. Lots of support for that carb. 32/36 is probably what I'll end up with. Anyone have a door stop I can use for mockup?

you could go fancy on Pegasus or get a set of Motorcraft or NGK for a 1971-73 1600 Pinto anywhere. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1310

@pteglerI think Ive got the DGVs covered. The DCDs filter mount surface is taller. curious about the choice of a 23/26 on a 2Ltr engine? It seems to me you could use a 38. But Im learning these little 2bbls can be surprisingly adequate.

And then there's reverse bleeding... It goes against everything I understand, but it has its fans.

Can anyone get hands on a 28/36 or 36 DCD for a height measurement? Or be willing to part with?

Can we have a picture of the Morgan item? Any casting #s? Take a good set of measurements on that tank opening so we can compare. Current ETA is Sep 14. Located today at Lichfield, Staffordshire. MV, I agree with the concept of vacuum bleeding. Its a lot cleaner and I do agree the tank wasn't designed for pressure. On vacuum bleeding l, I have had trouble keeping air from coming in around the nipple threads giving me false air in the drain tube and an uncertainty if any of that air got left in the line after closing. No, I haven't tried any thread sealants. I believe TPFE tape is a no-no.

@BrianE No, not yet. What pressure bleeder did you use? Don't they have a cap that will fit? Motive bleeder has a cap for Girling. I'm curious if this is what you tried because that's my plan when I get there. I measured my MC tank opening to be closer to 1.5" than anything listed here, but I suspect the sizes stated are inaccurate e.g. 25mm (1"). Who ever made a 1" neck? Do Spit clutch cylinders have 1" caps? Anyway, before you return something, try selling it on the forum here. I WOULD BUY IT. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/adapters-1/products/1123-girling-1-75-id?_pos=30&_fid=38d91d73d&_ss=c This one has a review that says he used this cap on his Spitfire https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/adapters-1/products/adapters-adapters-import-adapters-adapters-classic-marine-universal?_pos=19&_fid=38d91d73d&_ss=c

Ground up restoration. Complete tear down, alu removal, have the chassis inspected for integrity, repaired and treated for rust prevention. Then every part is restored, tested or replaced. Bag and tag. Then reassemble the car. Unfortunately painted alu isn't taken off and replaced without paint damage, so a repaint is probably on the list. You should be able to obtain the build manual somewhere on this forum. It would be fun and you'll learn a lot. Just have to compartmentalize each separate project until completion. Like brakes. When it's time to do the brakes, do all the learning and get the tools and don't think about the other stuff till your done. "These cars go together in a certain order", says Chris @ Sevns&Elans. Get that order and get it done.

I have to renig on my 151 numbers, I never got into my 151s. I got into my (was a) 32DFM. I can get my 151s numbers in a while, but I suspect they will be the same as Tony's chart.

See this from Tony Weale's excellent 7 Bible

That's a good calculator. Remember that Weber part numbers aren't always sequential. For example, if an air corrector is 165 and decreasing the size for enriching is desired, the corrector number may not be 164. Or it may. Weber was known for numbering parts in the haphazard order they were created. Just something to watch. Consider using an AFR you can watch throughout the driving range. Useful to indicate any air leaks. https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/mtx-al-wideband-air-fuel-ratio-gauge.html There are cheaper AFRs, but this one is much cooler and fits the standard 53mm hole.

When I can ill get you my DCOE's. But I imagine you may be a little different for 1700. There are a lot of variables that affect the proper tune. Altitude, ignition, air cleaners, driving style, etc.