IamScotticus

Ive seen very good work done by metal fab guys. Im going to say the work is possible but the problem might be the insurance agreeing to it. "Body shops" don't typically work on tubular space frame structures. The shop that will might either be too expensive or they may not be considered a credible automotive repair shop, like more of a craft shop or artisan. Vintage aircraft restoration might be too much but worth asking. If a shop has a skilled metal man, annealing and shaping will not be anything new to him. He could pull off the damaged skin, flatten it out, make a template, cut a new piece, form it and rivet it the same holes, then weld the seams, etc. That would be the easy part, it goes down hill from there as far as what you will be satisfied with.. We tend to be a perfectionist group. As for the "arch", not sure what you're referring to. Any fiberglass repair would most likely be unsatisfactory, only a replacement will do. Fame work, they better do the same welding techniques. Its unrealistic to find a welding shop that can do the body AND set up the rest of the car properly. That's the difficult thing to explain to an adjuster. I would be calling all the dealers of seven type cars and asking who does this work and be willing to send the car to them. remove the fuel tank first. Try Supraformance. Call TM Technologies info@tinmantech.com for some recommendations.. Theyre located in N. San Juan. Some pictures will be helpful.

Force= wrong. sorry.

where?

I like! https://www.carlingtech.com/combination-switches-csw-series I would use this in combination with a Blink Stop if necessary. https://blinkstop.co.uk/shop/blinkstop

I've been shopping for my next bat.

do compression checks. #3 might show something.

The only discomfort I've had in 100 deg F days (Texas) is knee burning on the tunnel wall wearing shorts. Nothing further back bothered me. I would install only back to the seat, but not further unless its warranted. It was so hot, I worried the carpet adhesive would ignite.

Insulating at least the L foot well front pedal box and sides is something I must do as well. Im still on the fence about pipe wrapping. I don't care for using adhesives for this purpose. I glued my tunnel carpet and regret it now. Are metal snaps something the heat barrier sheets will accept?

I count 15 coils on your springs. I have two sets that are 7-8 coils. I think your springs are an older standard. there are better options now. You need to know your front end weight and go spring shopping. The pic of my car is loaded.

I ask because my wet sump pan has a bottom even with the BH and has a upward taper to the front. it is a pretty good skid. It came on the engine as I bought it. I don't know if it was supplied by Caterham or if it was a custom fabrication, but its a great middle option. Im sure some oil slapping is going on in there. If you could find one...

'71-'73 Pinto 1600. If you have to look up by car. Its the only one in the states that ran the Xflow like we run it. Local parts will likely be ACCEL 4014 & 4015 MSD 31159 AC Delco 9044J NGK 52408 Denso 6714060 These are cut to fit the 1600. none of these include a long enough Primary HT wire.

dont neglect to loosen all the A arm suspension bushes any time you raise off the ground, especially for damper service. If your car hasn't had them refreshed since new, they may be a factor in not maintaining the proper stance.

I get about 4" with taller tyres. using 185/ 70 R13. Is your sump even with the bell housing? or lower? you might have a need for dampers with more adjustment. can you put up pictures of the dampers?

Seat, "BDR" pre-S type, Cloth with Sliding Rails and Headrest, 22.2 lbs. Roll Bar, FIA, Caterham Live Axle, 1996, sans Petty Strut, 21.2 lbs. Rocker Cover, Caterham, Kent Xflow, Cast Alloy, 2 lbs 14.3 oz. Battery, Lead Acid, Group U1 Garden Tractor, 19 lbs. Bell Housing, Iron, Ford, PN: 71BB7505AC, 23.5 lbs. Silencer, Cheesman, PN: 3GX085A, 1-3/4", 5" x 23.5", 7.10 lbs. Wheel, Alloy, 13"x7", 3.75" PCD, Panasport/ Minilite type (unmarked), 11.56 lbs. Head, Kent XFlow, Iron, with valves and dual springs, no rocker assembly or studs, 35 lbs. Steering Rack, Caterham, with tie rod ends, 9.46 Lbs Tie rod ends, Triumph, x2, 1.37 Lbs Wing, Rear Left with cut-out, No stone shield, with Lights, 4.75Lbs Wing, Rear Right, with stone shield, with lights, 6.96 Lbs

To set up a well balanced car, or stay within legal limits, you ned to know the weights of items. The goal here is for us to weigh our parts, or contribute known figures of, then list them here. I will compile the information and list the aggregate in an organized article that will be helpful to everyone. That's the plan. Simple is useful Please refrain from meandering discussions; just parts, descriptions and numbers. Direct message "mail" me any correspondence, suggestions, advice, etc. Weight requests for unlisted parts is fine. Whatever gets those parts out of the boxes works. Don't assume any parts listed are for sale or are even in possession. This is only for information sharing, not trading. If you must make an offer to buy a part, please message the poster directly, not here. Those are the rules. Now, let's have fun with parts! Thanks, Scott

These might be the item https://caterhamparts.co.uk/headrests/243-headrest-96-cloth.html

I like this because I can tuck it away. I don't have room on my dash for another round guage. Two other displays like this work with controllers. A controller isn't mentioned for this one. Is it a stand alone?

14V is good. Not good from your alternator, but OK from the battery.

https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-kent-crossflow-tuning-guide.html https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides.html

The Wallage book is close to $1K in new condition if you can find it. The last one I saw on AMZ was 1k. That Des Hammill Pinto SOHC book is now $100. this from Pegasus is very good https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1639 Also you will have more availability of the Haynes for Escort MK 1. Im seeing them on fleabay now for $12-20 Another good source are articles in Classic Ford Magazine. unfortunately, no one ever made any effort to put it all in one online collection.

That's better than a 19 lbs tractor battery!

shameless plug your Antigravity peddler!

no expert here, just remember the rotor turn 1/2x crank speed so, there are two different TDCs, one will be wrong. Just be sure you align on the right stroke. Last time I reinstalled my dizzy, I remember I had to rotate the splines in advance of where the rotor will settle because of the curvature of the drive gear. Pop off the the rocker cover and determine which TDC has both #1 valves closed. then install the dizzy so the rotor points to #1 sparky. Indexing the rotor to #1 will be a gerry-rigging of tape and pointers, markers, whatever. there isn't anything on the dizzy I know of to align it. If I had the parts to spare I would cut the top off a bad upper half and make an index on that.

Thinking about the process of body skinning, where some seam and join filet welding is required, it's a better practice to attach all panels with Clecos, rather than rivets, in case the welding is botched beyond repair and panel replacement is required.