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MV8

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Everything posted by MV8

  1. He probably assumed your documentation matches the cam installed. Pulley adjustment just alters timing and overlap of what is installed. Pulling the valve cover and measuring is the only way to know what you have. It could be the compression variation is due in part to unintentional differences in cam specs from cylinder to cylinder from cam wear or machining error. Those differences could be masked by differences in valve and ring seal from cylinder to cylinder.
  2. Unless the reground cams were stenciled with a part number, you may need to have lift measured and the profile degree'd to determine what is actually installed.
  3. Doubt it is a tank problem but pics of the tank and fill and vent plumbing could help. Many methods to tackle thermal expansion of cold fuel from in-ground station tanks, cornering slosh, accidents, and roll overs. Previous discussion and methods:
  4. The numbers don't help me but it looks like an R200 that come on datsun/nissan Z cars and some infiniti models. Ratios are around 3.50-4:1. I'll guess it is from a 280zx with a 3.54:1 ratio.
  5. MV8

    M79 TAB

    Sounds like a good plan. I couldn't see the first vid on utube, but the last one sounds fine. Monitor oil pressure with the current oil and after changing to the appropriate oil. If it starts falling off for what is normal for the rpm, change the filter again as soon as possible as it may be clogging and bypassing. I've gone through several filters when flushing an engine within a hundred miles before changing to regular oil, then two or three by the next oil change. That is odd about the oil level check. I check oil after an engine has been off for 5 minutes or more, wipe the stick, reinsert, then pull and use the lowest mark indicated no matter which side of the stick it's on.
  6. If the heat gun is not enough, drill the rubber all around the bolt head until the rubber will tear when you torque the bolt. An impact is only effective over very few degrees of rotation (also why drive extensions don't work with an impact). Use a six point socket and 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and if you have room, a short piece of gas/black steel pipe with an id a 1/2 inch larger than the 1/2 inch breaker handle. I always use anti-seize or wheel bearing grease on bolt shanks, especially extra long shanks like this one. I have some suggestions if the bolt shank is actually seized to the cage.
  7. Those look great. Did your car come with the adjustable cam pulleys? Were they "dialed in" as Dallasdude described or just lined up? Nothing wrong with 140hp depending on the chassis dyno, dyno calibration, weather correction, and other little details.
  8. MV8

    M79 TAB

    Found the oil spec in a '95 Cat manual to be 5w/50 for a Rover K.
  9. MV8

    M79 TAB

    Regarding the "super noisy" valve train, I urge you not to drive it in that condition. I suggest changing the oil and filter. I'd use a cheap 5w30 for the moment, replacing a quart with "Marvel Mystery Oil" (essentially air tool oil). Run it with this in the driveway until the engine is fully warm. If it stops ticking in the driveway, drive it a few days then change the oil and filter again. You might upload a video so we can hear this noise, but I am assuming it might be the valve train lash actuators(lifters) not fully pumping up due to the wrong weight of oil or sticking from varnish, hammering the valvetrain.
  10. Cole Hersee for traditional toggles. Made for commercial vehicles. I like Carling for modern rockers that are often oem in hi-end boats.
  11. Howe #3424. The ebay auction I linked to must have ended. A web search will pull up a half dozen sources. Specs: https://howeracing.com/search?type=product&q=3424* It can be attached to a flat, 1/8" plate bolted to the engine with a couple slots for hose clamps or holes for cushion clamps.
  12. If there were no lawyers, I doubt it would ever be an issue short of hitting a curb or nasty pot hole with low tire pressure (more likely to bend than break like cheap wheels). However, it looks like a big "sue me" sign (to anyone that can read) after an accident, no matter whose fault it really is.
  13. Try cleaning and/or unplugging the MAF and trying to start. The wire inside the MAF gets dirty. There are aerosol cleaners for that.
  14. Does that panel glue to the normal panel or rivet? That info and a pic of the instrument panel that will be covered would help in determining how much if any you could cut for vehicle profile esthetics. From what I see, cutting that out would leave a high/proud panel edge that could catch on clothing or shoes and damage the panel. It would also weaken the outboard instrument pod support, which could eventually result in stress cracks. I guess the mazda panel is fiberglass out of a textured mold for the surface finish. I would at least lower the horizontal cut line an inch and make the line diagonal or radiused.
  15. Another potential source, "Cornfield Customs": (A link was posted on locostusa.)
  16. I've read that red was standard but no original reviews that reference the seat color, only that they are "Vynide", a scrim backed, leather grained vinyl with piping. That is a deal for new upholstery from Tony. Otherwise, I'd use a modern marine-grade pe vinyl from a place like Kens upholstery online and 5-8lb density foam for the lower cushions.
  17. You might also try Barber Motorsport Museum in Leeds, AL. They may have wood bucks left over from their s1 restorations. Great place to visit. I like the s1 rear fender shape but the narrow front fenders attached to the body appear to be more effective as a wind catcher than stopping dirt and stones. I'd jump forward a few years with a composite nose and clamshell wings direct from Caterham.
  18. https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/?tradename=Econoseal
  19. Using a torch, I'd straighten out the existing bend, then start the new bend as low as practical, just above the sealing washer with a straight shot (in neutral) to the hole in the shifter boot on the tunnel and cut a couple inches bellow the shift boot if the shifter is way too long, then taper each end so the weld is not ground away when dressing the shaft so the seal will slide over it. You can support the lower end with wood 2x4 trimmed to allow clamping/holding without damage for bending.
  20. Ditto on "safety" glass which is two layers of standard residential glass bonded with a sheet of vinyl. You must request the glass be cut with the marking (in what will be a lower corner) or risk having no marking. They may fit it to the frame for you. I suggest bicycle inner tube as a gasket for the channel, then trim the excess with a razor blade after assembly. They should sand the corners but it can still cut you. "Plexi" is acrylic; cheaper and more scratch resistant than "lexan" (polycarbonate) but can also shatter. Motorcycle windscreens and helmet face shields are acrylic.
  21. Not much to see. Only two bids in the last few days that raised it a couple hundred. The last bid was about 31 seconds from the end but the bid was not enough for the automatic bidder from a week prior. Looking at the bids, it looks like nobody had thought through how to get it for the least amount but not everybody cares about that.
  22. Look for a capri or euro granada shifter, 2000E, or Type 5 (v6 version of 2000E, not our domestic T5).
  23. That'd be helpful to Lonnie. He is at the exhaust stage of his builds.
  24. We have converted rail trails too; the Chief Ladiga Trail in Alabama and the Comet Trail in Georgia. I built a long wheelbase low recumbent bike years ago. Seven feet long, under seat steering (hands rest on top of the handle bar), so low I could touch the ground easily with my hand and eye height about the same as most car bumpers. Mostly a men's bike with the front fork and wheel from a kids bmx connected by an exhaust tubing boom, three chains and a ball bearing idler sprocket as a chain guide. Very fast and stable if you go off but not good exercise if you have companions on traditional bikes trying to keep pace. Awkward at intersections and scary low/invisible in the parking lot.
  25. A section of material cut from a yoga mat that is trimmed to cover the full seat "pan" (red in pic). The smaller strip (blue) goes under the red. The idea is to provide some thigh and bottom support beyond what you get with the slip on yellow cover.
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