MV8

I guess you are talking about the early above the tunnel exposed shift linkage. Plausible. The T9 shifters I've seen are not serviceable. They are crimped together around the ball and the handle is integral via a vibration isolator. It can be modified and welded if needed without damaging the ball end. I've modified T5 shifters that had an integral handle (GM applications). Fill a shallow bucket/bowl/pail with water, place the ball end of the shifter in the pail, boot removed, then heat the isolator section of the handle with a map gas torch until the rubber lets go, allowing the handle and rubber to lift off the steel shaft. Shorten what remains as low as practical with a metal cutting blade band saw or hack saw. Consider the distance from the shifter ball center to the tab eye for the linkage should be the same or less than the distance between the attachment point on the remote shift lever and it's pivot ball (if a ball is used). With the shifter ball submerged in water, you can weld a tab to engage the shifter link on top of the stub so the shifter boot will still be replaceable. The link can be as simple as a 1/2 inch tube with tabs on the ends to bolt to the T9 shifter and remote shifter with a one inch od plastic washer in between and a locking fastener loose enough to allow the movement. A large contact area between the tabs is needed for the shifter's lateral control.

What year CB750? I had a Nighthawk 750 among others. Long ago, I spent time as a motorcycle mech for Harley and a dealer working on the usual imports. I like the old goldwings.

No seats or shoes for this guy. How do you feel about yoga? The mats make great seat squabs.

Exactly. Very similar to miata HLA lifters and similar issue. A good cleaning and it will probably be fine. I'm wondering if 5w40 would be better for the lifters yet adequate for the bottom end hot at high revs.

What was the oil pressure when it started going? Change the oil and add the "marvel" for another try before tear down to clean/replace the lifters. Marvel is red but it is not just atf.

Not an ideal situation for either tube. I don't know how much effort you want to put into this if not racing or if you can weld and fabricate or have someone that can. The relief valve should rarely open. The flow without the tube would hit the crank and aerate the oil. It can be shortened. The tube must be secured against vibration but removable. It can be clamped to the feed tube or to a tab under the main cap bolt head. The hardware needs to be locked with tabs, prevailing torque nuts (not a nyloc), or safety wired. The feed tube can be hung off the main caps to be as long as needed to reach the deepest part of the pan. Quick and easy would be to clamp the tubes together with two, steel, uncushioned clamps and locking hardware. I'd shorten the relief tube to the main cap height. I like the new pickup better as the tube is much closer to the screen. The angle is not critical or ideal

He probably assumed your documentation matches the cam installed. Pulley adjustment just alters timing and overlap of what is installed. Pulling the valve cover and measuring is the only way to know what you have. It could be the compression variation is due in part to unintentional differences in cam specs from cylinder to cylinder from cam wear or machining error. Those differences could be masked by differences in valve and ring seal from cylinder to cylinder.

Unless the reground cams were stenciled with a part number, you may need to have lift measured and the profile degree'd to determine what is actually installed.

Doubt it is a tank problem but pics of the tank and fill and vent plumbing could help. Many methods to tackle thermal expansion of cold fuel from in-ground station tanks, cornering slosh, accidents, and roll overs. Previous discussion and methods:

The numbers don't help me but it looks like an R200 that come on datsun/nissan Z cars and some infiniti models. Ratios are around 3.50-4:1. I'll guess it is from a 280zx with a 3.54:1 ratio.

Sounds like a good plan. I couldn't see the first vid on utube, but the last one sounds fine. Monitor oil pressure with the current oil and after changing to the appropriate oil. If it starts falling off for what is normal for the rpm, change the filter again as soon as possible as it may be clogging and bypassing. I've gone through several filters when flushing an engine within a hundred miles before changing to regular oil, then two or three by the next oil change. That is odd about the oil level check. I check oil after an engine has been off for 5 minutes or more, wipe the stick, reinsert, then pull and use the lowest mark indicated no matter which side of the stick it's on.

If the heat gun is not enough, drill the rubber all around the bolt head until the rubber will tear when you torque the bolt. An impact is only effective over very few degrees of rotation (also why drive extensions don't work with an impact). Use a six point socket and 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and if you have room, a short piece of gas/black steel pipe with an id a 1/2 inch larger than the 1/2 inch breaker handle. I always use anti-seize or wheel bearing grease on bolt shanks, especially extra long shanks like this one. I have some suggestions if the bolt shank is actually seized to the cage.

Those look great. Did your car come with the adjustable cam pulleys? Were they "dialed in" as Dallasdude described or just lined up? Nothing wrong with 140hp depending on the chassis dyno, dyno calibration, weather correction, and other little details.

Found the oil spec in a '95 Cat manual to be 5w/50 for a Rover K.

Regarding the "super noisy" valve train, I urge you not to drive it in that condition. I suggest changing the oil and filter. I'd use a cheap 5w30 for the moment, replacing a quart with "Marvel Mystery Oil" (essentially air tool oil). Run it with this in the driveway until the engine is fully warm. If it stops ticking in the driveway, drive it a few days then change the oil and filter again. You might upload a video so we can hear this noise, but I am assuming it might be the valve train lash actuators(lifters) not fully pumping up due to the wrong weight of oil or sticking from varnish, hammering the valvetrain.

Cole Hersee for traditional toggles. Made for commercial vehicles. I like Carling for modern rockers that are often oem in hi-end boats.

Howe #3424. The ebay auction I linked to must have ended. A web search will pull up a half dozen sources. Specs: https://howeracing.com/search?type=product&q=3424* It can be attached to a flat, 1/8" plate bolted to the engine with a couple slots for hose clamps or holes for cushion clamps.

If there were no lawyers, I doubt it would ever be an issue short of hitting a curb or nasty pot hole with low tire pressure (more likely to bend than break like cheap wheels). However, it looks like a big "sue me" sign (to anyone that can read) after an accident, no matter whose fault it really is.

Try cleaning and/or unplugging the MAF and trying to start. The wire inside the MAF gets dirty. There are aerosol cleaners for that.

Does that panel glue to the normal panel or rivet? That info and a pic of the instrument panel that will be covered would help in determining how much if any you could cut for vehicle profile esthetics. From what I see, cutting that out would leave a high/proud panel edge that could catch on clothing or shoes and damage the panel. It would also weaken the outboard instrument pod support, which could eventually result in stress cracks. I guess the mazda panel is fiberglass out of a textured mold for the surface finish. I would at least lower the horizontal cut line an inch and make the line diagonal or radiused.

Another potential source, "Cornfield Customs": (A link was posted on locostusa.)

I've read that red was standard but no original reviews that reference the seat color, only that they are "Vynide", a scrim backed, leather grained vinyl with piping. That is a deal for new upholstery from Tony. Otherwise, I'd use a modern marine-grade pe vinyl from a place like Kens upholstery online and 5-8lb density foam for the lower cushions.

You might also try Barber Motorsport Museum in Leeds, AL. They may have wood bucks left over from their s1 restorations. Great place to visit. I like the s1 rear fender shape but the narrow front fenders attached to the body appear to be more effective as a wind catcher than stopping dirt and stones. I'd jump forward a few years with a composite nose and clamshell wings direct from Caterham.

https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/?tradename=Econoseal

Using a torch, I'd straighten out the existing bend, then start the new bend as low as practical, just above the sealing washer with a straight shot (in neutral) to the hole in the shifter boot on the tunnel and cut a couple inches bellow the shift boot if the shifter is way too long, then taper each end so the weld is not ground away when dressing the shaft so the seal will slide over it. You can support the lower end with wood 2x4 trimmed to allow clamping/holding without damage for bending.