MV8

What a find! This far south, "hillbilly" is replaced with "red neck"; as in a red neck version of May's hillbilly cat. Nice compared to most rail buggies I've seen. Must have been a kit that lost some bits along the way replaced with asymmetrical trailer lights a grill from a grill. A "fixer upper". A "mechanics dream". Loved enough for pinstripes and air brushing. Since it is a rail with no vw pan (just the rear torsion tube and trans horns), I wonder if it is titled or registered.

That could be. It was a long time ago, and as many versions as there are people involved. An iron 8.8 helps offset the v8. I just made a connection Bill. This is me in the miata.net archive (mv8..etc): https://forum.miata.net/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=32 Did you rejoin in '06 with a new, less personal log-on as mrmustang? I remember a Bill S.

I'm impressed. We are on the same page as far as that goes. I'm also a big fan of recycling what is completely overlooked/dirt cheap. Along those lines, I'm a fan of Max Balchowsky's 1959 "Old Yeller" considering the pre-web info void. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a30124/max-balchowsky-old-yeller-ii/ It's been written that Shelby employees preferred the 260 and 289 cobras and would place bets on how long a 427 would be on the road before it came back in pieces. I've driven an original "Monster Miata" and preferred to build a v6 instead, considering the engine's placement in the wheelbase (polar moment of inertia).

Looks to be a standard coilover where the shaft eye is removed for a stock, non-coilover type "shock" mount and the upper spring seat is on the chassis versus the coilover. Nothing wrong with that. I expect the upper bushing seat on the shaft unscrews from the shaft and may have a thin jamb nut. Can't tell from the first pic. The shaft is held by the flats on the tip to unscrew the seat. It may just slip over instead of thread on to the shaft. Either way is fine and the bush is fine since it only deals with damping loads, not spring loads. I wonder if it is actually a datsun strut cartridge retained in the coilover body at the top with a large nut.

About the aluminum block, here is a quote from here: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/slant-sickness-add-77-hp-mopar-slant-six/ "Before we dive in, sharp readers will notice our particular block has a shiny, bright appearance. That's because it's one of the nearly 50,000 die-cast aluminum engines (block only) offered as an option in 1961 and '62 Valiants and Lancers. At 64 pounds, the aluminum block was a featherweight compared to the normal 130-pound iron 225 block. The idea was that the reduced weight would improve handling, braking, acceleration, prolong tire life, and eliminate the need for power steering. The price for the aluminum block 225 (sales code 502) was just $47.35, a hundred bucks less than the AM radio! To streamline production, Chrysler designed the aluminum engine so it shared everything with its iron block sibling except for the head bolts, main cap bolts, and head gasket. This means all the data gathered in this story applies to the cast-iron 225 sitting under the bench in your garage. In the end, Chrysler's Kokomo, Indiana Forge and Foundry Division, where the die-cast blocks were made alongside Torqueflite transmission cases, suffered a greater-than-expected scrappage rate. That is, too many blocks were emerging from the 2,000-ton die-casting machine with imperfections. Also, at $30, each aluminum block cost Chrysler $6.00 more to make than iron. Multiplied by millions, it wasn't sustainable. So, that's why the aluminum-block 225 option was quietly dropped after 1962." Seems more than capable without boost, easy access to work on, and low profile. Be interesting to weigh one versus web claims but obviously heavier than any ford four.

I wonder if competition is important to most cat buyers. I agree that heavier, sevensque cars designed for touring are not as successful at some types of racing or other measures of performance. Have you had an opportunity to drive a "modern" morgan trike? I once drove a lola bodied locost with a 3 cyl kubota diesel that doesn't actually make much sense on paper imho but I still had a good time. They all have something to offer.

These are not my vehicles of course and were posted in jest to the viper. I don't consider any of these to be superior to any traditional ford engine choice considering traction limits and weight. The viper powered car is a Viento that resembles the shape of a Caterham/Seven but obviously much bigger and heavier. No relation to the blue car, which is a locost build on a much smaller scale with the A4 racing engine which like the viper V10, is based on the pre-magnum dodge LA v8 (273-318-340-360). I could see building a slightly bigger than a "book" locost with viper/dakota/d100/b100 spindles with screw-in balljoints, dakota early light duty axle (8-1/4), ax15 5 spd, and an LA or magnum 3.9L v6, LA 273/318/340/360, magnum 5.2L/5.9L, or 5.7 hemi (they all fit the bellhousing). Still an over-powered tire smoker heavier than a cat with any of those. The v6 makes the most sense. Better than a cat? Unlikely, but I could live with that. Apparently Chapman was intrigued by the dodge six powered eleven. https://www.valiant.org/lotus.html https://www.lotuseleven.org/DarkAges1/DarkAges1.htm

I fixed it with a leaning tower of power. Can't seem to find a seven (or eleven) with a 340 six pack for some reason (insert palms-up shrug). Of course, if half a small block mopar fits, why not add the other bank?

What model is that? I think the base viper gets 200/500 rates, with the some models getting much higher rates two or three times the base rates. Maybe the rates were "upgraded". Too much of a good thing?(pic)

If running into a lake or snow bank, the nose "bumper" will do that once. Anything else just means a bit more damage.

I'm sure the flywheel mfgs would prefer that. Replacing rotors anytime brake pads are replaced follows the same logic.

If there is no bumper minimum width requirement, the nose can be called a bumper. Modern car bumpers are plastic covered styrofoam with a little sheet metal support.

While going to town on this excavator, my water broke........ I marked it really well so I could rip out while trying to pull a massive stump that had rooted around it. Broke the line in four places and the well power (nope, not all in the same area). Fun, fun, fun. Ever covered in Georgia red clay, exhausted, and have no water? Very humbling. Still, a very productive 8 hours in the saddle and only lost water for about a half day.

Hmm.Well..., a gentleman never tells but yeah, that's the ticket. Either Lovitz or Harry Caray with a bowl of moon spare ribs and a tall, cool Budweiser:

What's the big deal? I'll park it next to the unicorn. Have to pay with a super rare nickel given to me by Morgan Fairchild or crypto.

I was looking at your brake pedal. It looks like when they replaced the master cylinder, instead of adjusting the push rod length, they made it as short as possible. This would place the pedal low in the footwell and reduce pedal travel so you may hit the floor with the pedal before fully applying the brakes. I would rotate the nut behind the clevis (ccw as viewed from the rear) to unjamb the rod adjustment, then unscrew the push rod from the clevis to raise the pedal but leave at least two threads protruding through the nut in the clevis. If the pedal can't go any higher, rotate the push rod cw into the clevis a 1/2 turn to create some free play/looseness in the linkage and rejamb the nut to hold the setting while keeping the push from rotating in the clevis. It doesn't take very much pressure to jamb the nut. You mentioned tires:

Ron, thank you, but there is nothing to apologize for. If it has been sitting for 5-6 years since the brake modification, the first thing would be a fluid change and a complete bleeding, first at the rear, then the passenger's front, then the driver's front. To bleed without a helper to work the pedal, I use a jar and hand vacuum pump. The electrical switch on top of the master is a float for a low brake fluid level warning and not needed. I don't see any brake lines routed differently from other cats I've seen but I don't know what is going on below the carbs. I think I see the brake switch, located on the original tee to the rear brake circuit, connected to the line going into the tunnel to connect the rear brakes. If the master cylinder linkage is adjusted too long, the master piston can be partially pushed into the master without applying pressure to the pedal. This may block the compensation port in the master that allows the system to bleed air from the calipers to the master reservoir and collect air in the high mounted lines. To check, open the master reservoir and apply the pedal, looking for a vertical squirt of fluid. No squirt requires shortening of the master push rod length between the master and the pedal end to create some free play. I don't know if the pedal relies entirely on the master internal piston or an external spring to fully bring the pedal back up after applying the brakes.

Back in the late '90s, I installed an early 4.3L-v6 4v from an astrovan using a v8 archie bell adapter and pre-'86 sbc crank adapter with the muncie 4spd so no hole in the inner fender or electric pump. Possibly the first 4.3l v6 since most everybody was only fitting sbcs and Archie was reluctant to sell just the parts I needed. It now has a chevy cobalt 5spd with the integral slave which works perfectly with the fiero master once the line is adapted. I designed the rear trans mount bracket to fit the fiero mount, added a modified cobalt front trans mount to the cradle, and made a bracket that bolts to the 4.3l head and accepts the fiero dogbone. It uses a 327 short water pump and single groove pulleys for clearance with two, dodge truck engine mounts below the crank on each side. I designed the shift linkage at the trans to work with the throw of the 4 spd shifter and made adapters so the 4spd shifter would accept marine steering cables for shifting. I also made a few tools to make pulling the drivetrain out without a lift much easier and corrected the rear bumpsteer. Plenty of power and quiet torque for me. Surprising mileage too with the deep overdrive and lots of torque.

Ron, you may want to remove your personal information from the previous post by selecting the three dots next to "author" in the upper right corner of your post in order to "edit". If you place your cursor on Moboost's picture, a small window will open where you can select "message" to send a PM to Moboost. FWIW, I believe the aft port (installed) of the master cylinder goes to the tee with the brake switch. You might also show the modification tee made to your car and check the bore size of each master cylinder to ensure they are the same. If the new master has a larger bore, effort will increase. If smaller, the pedal will travel more to stop the car.

Replace. It is very blue, as in unhappy. Looks like it has been unhappy for a long time. Generally attributed to operator technique (previous owner or car borrower?) of feathering release from high rpm or resting the foot on the pedal and/or continuing to drive with slippage going on. You can replace the ring or possibly have a machine shop mill and shim as needed to bring the surface to the right depth or they can just make a new ring from steel plate if the flywheel is going to be over $500 to replace.

I like the clean, basic glaspac cobra. It seems all the kits were molds pulled from the flared 427/ERA 289 body. I like the narrow 260/289 body the best. I remember the classifieds offering info on buying mil jeeps cut in half from the gov. I have a postal DJ5 which is 2wd with a 727 transmission but I have an AW4 electronic overdrive for it and CJ5 disc brake front axle, xfr case and 4 spd if I ever want to convert. Keeping RHD. Each one of the slotted mags was a different design/application/offset.

It seems the best protection is hard bed liner with rubberized "undercoat" top coat.

If there is any question on what drum you need, a good overall pics of both sides of the drum that fits would help to id. I based the last recombination based on what I could see in the pic. The stamped number didn't help me. It could be that the same era euro/mex ford brakes interchange on a standard axle as long as the backing plates match the drums.

Nice story. Mechanics giggle a lot, and for all sorts of reasons that are not always readily apparent to everybody.