MV8

These are not my vehicles of course and were posted in jest to the viper. I don't consider any of these to be superior to any traditional ford engine choice considering traction limits and weight. The viper powered car is a Viento that resembles the shape of a Caterham/Seven but obviously much bigger and heavier. No relation to the blue car, which is a locost build on a much smaller scale with the A4 racing engine which like the viper V10, is based on the pre-magnum dodge LA v8 (273-318-340-360). I could see building a slightly bigger than a "book" locost with viper/dakota/d100/b100 spindles with screw-in balljoints, dakota early light duty axle (8-1/4), ax15 5 spd, and an LA or magnum 3.9L v6, LA 273/318/340/360, magnum 5.2L/5.9L, or 5.7 hemi (they all fit the bellhousing). Still an over-powered tire smoker heavier than a cat with any of those. The v6 makes the most sense. Better than a cat? Unlikely, but I could live with that. Apparently Chapman was intrigued by the dodge six powered eleven. https://www.valiant.org/lotus.html https://www.lotuseleven.org/DarkAges1/DarkAges1.htm

I fixed it with a leaning tower of power. Can't seem to find a seven (or eleven) with a 340 six pack for some reason (insert palms-up shrug). Of course, if half a small block mopar fits, why not add the other bank?

What model is that? I think the base viper gets 200/500 rates, with the some models getting much higher rates two or three times the base rates. Maybe the rates were "upgraded". Too much of a good thing?(pic)

If running into a lake or snow bank, the nose "bumper" will do that once. Anything else just means a bit more damage.

I'm sure the flywheel mfgs would prefer that. Replacing rotors anytime brake pads are replaced follows the same logic.

If there is no bumper minimum width requirement, the nose can be called a bumper. Modern car bumpers are plastic covered styrofoam with a little sheet metal support.

While going to town on this excavator, my water broke........ I marked it really well so I could rip out while trying to pull a massive stump that had rooted around it. Broke the line in four places and the well power (nope, not all in the same area). Fun, fun, fun. Ever covered in Georgia red clay, exhausted, and have no water? Very humbling. Still, a very productive 8 hours in the saddle and only lost water for about a half day.

Hmm.Well..., a gentleman never tells but yeah, that's the ticket. Either Lovitz or Harry Caray with a bowl of moon spare ribs and a tall, cool Budweiser:

What's the big deal? I'll park it next to the unicorn. Have to pay with a super rare nickel given to me by Morgan Fairchild or crypto.

I was looking at your brake pedal. It looks like when they replaced the master cylinder, instead of adjusting the push rod length, they made it as short as possible. This would place the pedal low in the footwell and reduce pedal travel so you may hit the floor with the pedal before fully applying the brakes. I would rotate the nut behind the clevis (ccw as viewed from the rear) to unjamb the rod adjustment, then unscrew the push rod from the clevis to raise the pedal but leave at least two threads protruding through the nut in the clevis. If the pedal can't go any higher, rotate the push rod cw into the clevis a 1/2 turn to create some free play/looseness in the linkage and rejamb the nut to hold the setting while keeping the push from rotating in the clevis. It doesn't take very much pressure to jamb the nut. You mentioned tires:

Ron, thank you, but there is nothing to apologize for. If it has been sitting for 5-6 years since the brake modification, the first thing would be a fluid change and a complete bleeding, first at the rear, then the passenger's front, then the driver's front. To bleed without a helper to work the pedal, I use a jar and hand vacuum pump. The electrical switch on top of the master is a float for a low brake fluid level warning and not needed. I don't see any brake lines routed differently from other cats I've seen but I don't know what is going on below the carbs. I think I see the brake switch, located on the original tee to the rear brake circuit, connected to the line going into the tunnel to connect the rear brakes. If the master cylinder linkage is adjusted too long, the master piston can be partially pushed into the master without applying pressure to the pedal. This may block the compensation port in the master that allows the system to bleed air from the calipers to the master reservoir and collect air in the high mounted lines. To check, open the master reservoir and apply the pedal, looking for a vertical squirt of fluid. No squirt requires shortening of the master push rod length between the master and the pedal end to create some free play. I don't know if the pedal relies entirely on the master internal piston or an external spring to fully bring the pedal back up after applying the brakes.

Back in the late '90s, I installed an early 4.3L-v6 4v from an astrovan using a v8 archie bell adapter and pre-'86 sbc crank adapter with the muncie 4spd so no hole in the inner fender or electric pump. Possibly the first 4.3l v6 since most everybody was only fitting sbcs and Archie was reluctant to sell just the parts I needed. It now has a chevy cobalt 5spd with the integral slave which works perfectly with the fiero master once the line is adapted. I designed the rear trans mount bracket to fit the fiero mount, added a modified cobalt front trans mount to the cradle, and made a bracket that bolts to the 4.3l head and accepts the fiero dogbone. It uses a 327 short water pump and single groove pulleys for clearance with two, dodge truck engine mounts below the crank on each side. I designed the shift linkage at the trans to work with the throw of the 4 spd shifter and made adapters so the 4spd shifter would accept marine steering cables for shifting. I also made a few tools to make pulling the drivetrain out without a lift much easier and corrected the rear bumpsteer. Plenty of power and quiet torque for me. Surprising mileage too with the deep overdrive and lots of torque.

Ron, you may want to remove your personal information from the previous post by selecting the three dots next to "author" in the upper right corner of your post in order to "edit". If you place your cursor on Moboost's picture, a small window will open where you can select "message" to send a PM to Moboost. FWIW, I believe the aft port (installed) of the master cylinder goes to the tee with the brake switch. You might also show the modification tee made to your car and check the bore size of each master cylinder to ensure they are the same. If the new master has a larger bore, effort will increase. If smaller, the pedal will travel more to stop the car.

Replace. It is very blue, as in unhappy. Looks like it has been unhappy for a long time. Generally attributed to operator technique (previous owner or car borrower?) of feathering release from high rpm or resting the foot on the pedal and/or continuing to drive with slippage going on. You can replace the ring or possibly have a machine shop mill and shim as needed to bring the surface to the right depth or they can just make a new ring from steel plate if the flywheel is going to be over $500 to replace.

I like the clean, basic glaspac cobra. It seems all the kits were molds pulled from the flared 427/ERA 289 body. I like the narrow 260/289 body the best. I remember the classifieds offering info on buying mil jeeps cut in half from the gov. I have a postal DJ5 which is 2wd with a 727 transmission but I have an AW4 electronic overdrive for it and CJ5 disc brake front axle, xfr case and 4 spd if I ever want to convert. Keeping RHD. Each one of the slotted mags was a different design/application/offset.

It seems the best protection is hard bed liner with rubberized "undercoat" top coat.

If there is any question on what drum you need, a good overall pics of both sides of the drum that fits would help to id. I based the last recombination based on what I could see in the pic. The stamped number didn't help me. It could be that the same era euro/mex ford brakes interchange on a standard axle as long as the backing plates match the drums.

Nice story. Mechanics giggle a lot, and for all sorts of reasons that are not always readily apparent to everybody.

If you want to add relays for brighter lights, more effective cooling or potential fan upgrade, longer switch life, etc.....

Here is a basic headlight diagram for an '87. Not all connections and no grounds are shown for simplicity.

About the visor issue, an option would be to try a window film two or three inches wide across the top of the screen (depending on your height/line of sight). Not necessarily a tint, but a polarized anti-glare shield. You could trim a piece and tape in place to determine what suits you before selecting a product to install. Don't rule out anti-glare films for residential use. If it isn't obviously tinted or mirrored, it may not be an issue. A aftermarket tinted strip across the top of a windshield is very common. Besides sun, night vision may improve with often blinding on-coming traffic when sitting so low. There are static cling and adhesive types that both install with a razor blade, squeegee and soapy dish water. scotch tape is used to separate the backing sheet on the adhesive type. Easily removed years later with a razor blade and wd40 but if you have a screen defrost grid on the glass, you'd need to be careful not to cut the grid when removing the adhesive.

https://cortinamk2.co.uk/product/mk-2-9-road-shoe-h-plates-suit-1600e-gt-lotus/

I doubt rear drums would be any different between a standard Cortina and a 1600GT of the same MK. I'll look again.

Better to fit it and not need it. Being able to start the car in gear may be a no-go. If you'd like a method of fitment, I could draw on a pic of the footwell with the clutch pedal fully extended forward to the stop, as viewed from the right thigh. I'm sure you can do it with your bracket making skills.