MV8

I don't know. Maybe minerals in the coolant as the protective additives broke down. I've never seen that in my cars.

There is a transmission and likely the only one to work well with enough reduction for the cranks tappered output torque capacity, though it is slipping in this example from power output modification (crank is actually slipping on both ends). The engine may be small enough for the canam cvt output to be centered with the engine offset in the engine bay, but if it uses a reverse box on the cvt output, it will be in the way of the driveshaft. There are much better choices for pulling through a traditional rpm range application. Efficiency/output can always be impressive if limited to a narrow rpm range. I wonder about the condition of the cvt with the engine modifications. A nice package for what it is, if the builder can stay within the design limits.

I suspect it is some sort of additive; possibly diy stop leak. Aluminum is more anodic.

Disconnect the radiator from the circuit to prevent it from being clogged and flush it out both ways with water. At least pop out the bottom rear most freeze plugs to break up any collecting crud. Flush through those plug holes and reinstall with new plugs. Flush the engine both ways through the upper and lower hose ports until the water runs clear, then pinch closed the pump inlet hose and fill the engine with your rust remover/phosphorous, premixed in a bucket then poured in and let it sit a few days, drain and flush until clear water comes out. Then change the head gasket as it has the smallest holes. If water is not breaking down the congealed material, you might want to let it sit with the least reactive solvent/weakest solution that will slowly break it down over a few days and not dissolve aluminum.

Me too. I think it is typical for the primaries to be able to pull out once it drops below a certain amount, dropping it further while it may drag on for years to expiration and never actually merge. An actual Cat is a better investment unless speculating imho.

If you cannot find the 14 inch free length needed for the rear in 1-7/8, another option to two lower seat 4 inch sleeves with 1-7/8x10 rear springs are 2-1/2x14 rear springs using four lipped seat adapters that can be made or ordered. It can be a lipped 1/8 thick steel washer, where the washer id is 1-7/8 (centers washer to the body), the od is 3-1/8, and the rolled ring / lip is 1/8 x 3/8 or 1/2 wide, wrapped around the od of the washer or has a 2-7/16 od. The original seats support but the washers keep the springs centered on the body. The larger springs will only increase the coilover od by a radius of about 3/8 compared to 1-7/8.

More like "plug and limp" if it runs at all. You'd need a tune and the qualities of that can vary greatly. There are ways to tune oem ecus but it would be much more practical to install an aftermarket speed density (SD) ecu that supports everything you need currently from the oem ford mass air flow (MAF) ecu. To do it properly, you'd also need to tune every aspect for fuel and ignition for air temp, coolant temp, loading (hills, gears, etc) which takes a lot of time unless a tune is available. There are emulators, scalars, and data loggers to make the tasks easier but it is still a lot of work and down time when you could be driving. In contrast, carbs simplify and make troubleshooting easier but nothing is without a downside. I suggest leaving it as-is.

Here are some of my old pics of the miata intermediate shaft components. Note the keyed spline and injected plastic that holds the male section in the tube end. I turned the pillow bush id for a snug fit to the shaft so the bush rotates with the shaft in the stainless saddle instead of the shaft rotating in the bush. Much greater surface area against the saddle so it should stay tight longer/wear much slower.

The Spax G303/G305 are for Lotus '59-'70 series I/II/III and Caterham live axle '72+ but are not adjustable for ride height. The G775/G776 are. They don't provide the damper specs in the catalog but may provide that info with a call to the tech line. The spring ID may be different between the 300 and 770 series dampers. They don't provide that info.

Spax's site does not cross reference to the old part numbers. If you have new old stock to install, are the seats adjustable? With the 1-7/8"/1.9" id springs, 10 inch free length is the standard. If the rear lower seat is not adjustable enough to accept a 10" but the seat is removable, a sleeve can be made to slip on and raise the lower seat as needed to accept a 10 inch spring (I did this when adapting adjustable seats to my spitfire coilovers using a coilover kit for a honda). If you fit coilovers with an adjustable seat that accepts 2-1/2" id springs, 14" free length is available. These will work if you can adjust the spring seats to accept a 10 inch spring but I would strongly consider 2-1/2 id adjustable coilovers all around if there is spring clearance. You could have 2-1/2 just on the rear to satisfy the 14 inch length and subsequent eye to eye length. QA1 255SM10-10" are listed as 1-7/8 id, and come in 95 and 125 for about $68 each. Shot peened, double heat treated, and guaranteed to stay within 5% of the listed rate forever. Chrome-like powder coat. Eibach 330-188-(rate) has the same dims but the closest rates are 100 and 130 for $66 each. Red. Hyperco 444-10S has the same dims but the closest rates are 100 and 125 for $76 each. Blue. www.speedwaymotors.com

Those circuits do not actually run through the ignition module/amp per the '87 schematic. An alternative to the fuses 2/3/4-coil+ continuity check (key off) is to check for voltage at the fuses.

Most major auto salvage yards subscribe and list parts on the site. The nice part is they sometimes list prices, though they sometimes gouge for a "core fee". I always respond Oh, I didn't know you guys rebuild (insert whatever it is). They usually drop it but I don't actually argue about it. They decide what to charge. https://car-part.com/

There should be a double terminal at the ignition switch. One wire goes to the coil + and the other provides B+ to the heater, wiper, and radiator fan fuses. You can try reseating the connector on the ign sw. Note how much less the voltage at the coil is compared to what is measured at the battery. Use a digital meter (DVM). Make a 4-6 foot jumper tool with 16ga wire and alligator clips for testing when the meter leads don't reach.

Check for continuity between the coil + terminal and the fuses, key off.

The distributor and coil wiring is part of the keyed V+ in the RUN position, along with everything that isn't working. Did you check for V+ in RUN at the fuses or just check that the fuses are not blown? Have you run the engine since changing the distributor and coil?

With top and doors on, you might consider a cigar lighter defogger and a fused lead off the battery for no modifications. I think the electric grid demister would be ideal with aux wiring.

I believe there is either a 5.2 and 7.2mm wide bayonet arm. It could be you have a 7.2mm blade on a 5.2mm arm. Given your plans, you may want to remove the wheel boxes, motor, and cable/spring for greasing the cable and the spindles (if possible to get grease in there).

I've seen things listed as a joke, like trying to sell a neighbors eyesore. Didn't say it was actually funny...

SPACs were hot a few years ago but read the SEC filing to see if it "warrants" it (little joke there).

I had a '93 mustang coupe (lighter than the hatchback) in the 90s as a daily driver with a 2.3L lima four and T5. I visited auto salvage yards on a regularly basis look for treasure for upgrades. I fit cobra rocker skirts (different/better than GT skirts), GT front and rear skins, Thunderbird Turbocoupe axle, swaybars and springs all around (had to cut two full coils to sit at normal ride height so way too stiff), urethane bushings, a strut tower brace and the alloy 10 hole rims with blank centers and polished lip and caps like the cobra in your pic. Hurst shifter and an SAAC (Shelby America) replacement label sheet from Ford. Only club members could order an SAAC so they sold around 45 total if memory serves. What I had was essentially the lightest mustang posing as the rarest. I would get "challengers" regularly, to which I would hold up four fingers. I do have a few pics somewhere but it was the "Dark Ages", before digital cameras or browsers. I was collecting parts for upgrading to a Turbocoupe engine. SVO mustangs were always expensive and rare. My job had me on second shift, switched me to third one day, then downshifted me to second the next day. I fell asleep on the way home and totaled the car. A waste, but I still had my 80's 5.0l swb ford ranger.

Levante yamaha based walk around. Interesting details.

That sounds like a perfect donor for a Sylva J15.

That was around 2006 for an led third brake (https://www.signaldynamics.com/ ) and a controller (https://kahtec.com/ ) to flash six times then go solid.

I mention alternative oil pressure ports because the elbow bear the filter looks to have less than 3/4 inch of clearance. High torque engines on rubber mounts move a lot. Under load, the clearance will increase then when the throttle is closed the clearance will briefly be less than it is now (rocking on the mounts). Observe an engine during a chassis dyno run to see how much they can move under load. Revving out of gear is not loaded so it won't move as much. I'd plug that port and use another due to the frame rail issue and no clearance to spin an elbow or 45 and no room for a banjo. Another option is to add a remote filter adapter with a separate nut like this one (allows indexing the outlets) to the existing filter adapter or replace it with an adapter with vertical fittings that will need full flow, two-piece elbows that allow indexing. https://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+Products/074/22-593/10002/-1?msclkid=7aef6b152a1c1034cd3e08cea8d21ea3&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BSC - Non-Brand Searches&utm_term=4579397212853868&utm_content=Other Categories

There is more than one spot to tap into for oil pressure and one spot can serve more than one function with a manifold/tee. I guess you are talking about trimming the rack mount to clear the belt and not altering the rack location.