MV8

I guess granada front brakes and dropping the upper control arm shaft down an inch on the unibody. They have power rack and pinion conversions available for these now too. I always disliked the original power system with the tilting pin actuator. Always seemed to over-correct.

I can't tell how bad a shape it is in assembled. For now, I suggest pulling the bolts to check the condition of the bolt shank and hardware between the frame and arm, remove the rust you can access with an abrasive wheel made for removing rust, replace the hardware if corroded, and brush on rustoleum heavily rusted metal primer instead of por15. You can save por for when the parts have been fully restored. Use wheel bearing grease on the bolt shank to protect and prevent seizing to the bush liner. Good hardware can be found from mcmaster, ebay, or even a home improvement store depending on what is needed. Generally grade 5 for SAE or 10.9 for metric.

The evap can should have a hose connection to the engine directly or through a solenoid controlled by the ecu. I think you can cap the tank vent port if using the filler vent port which should be more effective or just use the filler port to make a looped vent pipe without a functioning evap can. There should also be check valves and restrictors in any evap system. I don't know that the evap sys is sourced from an SVT ford. I don't have a cat to look at. Post pics of the system components. Check out the vent routing (no evap can in use) in the pic in this link: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/workshop-notice-371

I like to use pool balls for shift knobs by drilling and epoxying an insert (perhaps a seven ball?) or rod with a bolt-on lever (like a ford application T5). Very comfortable for large hands. Adding weight to a shifter makes no sense to me. Most oem shifters are isolated by rubber in the shaft or mounting flange.

You could make your own for about $20. Buy one inch of 2.5 inch rod from mcmaster but I don't know the method they use to cut it, so truing on a small lathe may be required on one face or just have a machine shop make the spacer.

I take it this has not been driven yet and you took the tank out to clean out the old gas? This must have an evap tank up front. If the end of the fuel hose next to the alternator is not connected to anything, that is probably where it goes but take a pic of wherever it goes.

A similar discussion: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13971-wdbs-caterham-super-seven/

I'm thinking that pcd is a relatively new development by momo. Is it six screws? I think the older ones have a larger pcd. Not hard to find spacers for those here that are drilled to accept a variety of six screw wheels with 2.75-2.85" pcd.

Interesting addition to the fleet John. You must be very proud. I kid, I kid! Is joke!

Sharing some information I collected on the heaters used over the years. None interchange without modifications to the car. Left to right, early/90s/late. This info may not be entirely accurate. I've included some pics of my 70's spitfire heater. An early heater could be made using spitfire parts in a new box made of .050 sheet steel or aluminum. The spitfire box has too many openings and the motor/core arrangement is the opposite, so it would be easier and cleaner just to make a new box. The core pipes are longer and curved but they could be shortened to look original or left as-is if the box is installed with the pipes pointing toward the engine. Some early fans have a bladed fan versus a "squirrel cage" with baffles in the box that should be swapped to the new box or fabricated. There may be room in the cowl to fit an early mini cooper heater or similar small heater. It looks like defrost/defog was never a function of the heater box, with a wire element bonded to the windscreen.

A peek at a portion of the Barber Motorsport Park Museum.

You just push whatever the administration decides without question or else. How hard can it be? I can fold quicker than a lawn chair.

I noticed the cam range was from 2750rpm. May not want to lean much. The extra richness is probably helping to prevent a lower rpm bog from the 48s due to lower port velocity. I think dellorto made a 38 dhla but I'm not sure. A race cam combined with big carbs is tough on low rev driveability. If you consider a carb swap later on, cv carbs (such as a set from a liter bike) are more flexible.

They could try putting the negative on the positive and the positive on the negative but if you asked if I were absolutely positive, I'd say negative.

I saw the listing for your car. You have plenty of vertical room under the bonnet for a 38 weber or 350cfm holley two barrel and intake. Should be night and day difference in response off idle and mpg, as well as last (less) ring wear.

It's a design issue. If you've ever been waterboarded, you know it can be difficult for air to pass through wet fabric. When moisture is imminent, you could carry a cover with a flange edge to sit over the inlet with a thin layer of foam on top so it doesn't rattle or scratch the underside of the bonnet , but the defog and heat won't work very well, even if you used car cover material in the center. A little water leaking into a running engine is not a problem.

Cockpits are adjustable too, but usually smaller. Depends on current seats. Originals had squabs.

How big was your scope? Did you make it? I mostly work remotely and some stay past your age but I have my exit lined up whatever the market brings; sooner if offered but they never do in my line of work.

It's just a short version of a logon I've been using since the late '90s "Miatav8" on miata.net. The image is a TVR Speed 12. They made one road car from the three prototypes for GT1 after the rule change as a heavily modified Cerbera. I might as well have a unicorn avatar, since I don't have one of those either. I just like it.

I drove a 930 turbo convertible when I was in high school. Guardsman Red with the gold mesh wheels and wing. I was working at a tire chain and pulled it around to the bays under the watchful eyes of the owner. I'm such a nice guy, right?

Hard to find and expensive. I'd "upgrade" to the next gen wipac reversing assemblies. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=wipac+210&_sacat=0&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15 https://www.ebay.com/itm/162193950375?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162193950375&targetid=4580153136941819&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225723&mkgroupid=1224856224320864&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941819&abcId=9300907&merchantid=51291&msclkid=8ec24040ef001b42051523f195cf12a6

Use an oil pressure switch in series with the pump relay control wire (positive or negative doesn't matter). This is how 80-90 gm efi pumps are controlled along with the ecu. oil pressure drops and the pump stops. I think it is about 4psi of oil pressure for the pump to operate using the gm switch but there are others.

To remove the oxidation, I'd try a Q tip and some fingernail polish remover (acetone) on the bezel but not the lens. A mist of aerosol rustoleum uv clear in flat, satin, semi-gloss, or gloss should work fine and no buff. Just enough to slow the fade.

Polycarb, acrylic, abs, etc can be formed in a normal electric oven over a wood stud (no pressure treatment) buck at around 200f (depending on the material) or less until it droops into shape. The height of the scoop should be no more than an inch considering the force it will apply to the windscreen frame at speed. Pickup two snaps. The rear edge should follow the frame top and back to aid the snaps to hold it in place. If the snaps are equidistant across the top, the scoop could be adjusted from side to side. Thin and flat, it would store easily.

That's not good but easily corrected. The holes should align perfectly. Looks like it may have been tweaked during shipping. It will bend easily. Fully torque the chassis fasteners. Bump the brkts after the 45deg bend with a 2x4x12 so the distance between the upper holes matches the radiator fastener holes. If you go too far, bump or pry with a 2x4 the other way. You can slot the end of the 2x4 (with the grain using a circular saw) the depth of the straight flange to use as a lever. Once the distance is correct, lay the 2x4x12" against the swaybar behind the rad brkt fully bolted to the chassis. Bump the front edge with another piece of 2x4 as a "slapper" to bring it parallel to the 2x4x12. Blows are like casting a fishing rod versus swinging a bat. Multiple light blows are better than one heavy blow.