MV8

What are the red horizontal (highest straight line inside nose) and the blue vertical (red line to bottom of nose) dims?

I used a champion radiator for a '60s ford econoline in my geo tracker with an v6-60/700r4 swap. Generally core size does not include the tank dimensions.

Actually that is a 2.8l I had sitting around as a place holder for mock up. It will probably be getting a 3400. Imho, the primary lack of torsional rigidity comes from no radiator core support between the IFS turrets and no stressed inner fenders or transmission tunnel. The original chassis is basically thin walled 2x3 and while what I've put back in is a bit thicker walled, it won't fix that. Just bolting in a trans cover that isn't abs plastic would help a lot. I fabbed the turret brace pictured but it isn't complete. I also made the alt bracket and mount brkts that use dodge truck v8 engine mounts about the size of a credit card. The black left side brkt was a first draft. The exhaust manifolds started out like this. I used dodge v10 exhaust studs and copper sheet to make gaskets. The IFS turrets originally served as the engine mounting brackets. My engine is much further back than any original or modified GT6 or spitfire I've been able to find no matter what engine was installed. This allowed me to address the anti-ackerman and bumpsteer by narrowing, raising and moving the rack aft several inches since the engine was not in the way. Of course, no swing axle leaf sprung IRS and much longer lower control arms by narrowing the frame rails. I also think blue is a much better color for that style ferrari.

I've been slowly tinkering on a spitfire I bought at Road Atlanta many years ago at the Mitty. It had been badly butchered for a ford v8 and T5 so I made a very low offer for if it didn't sell over the weekend to bring it to my house. It was just a roller and no v8 or T5 and headed for the scrap yard. Extensive frame modifications, no body flares, filled the bonnet opening back in yet clearing a gm v6-60 with T5 as far back and low as practical, fabricated spindles based on a '96 ford taurus with mustang aluminum two -piston calipers, brembo rotors, and a narrowed ford thunderbird 8.8 disc brake irs. The wheels are 15x7 tbird twin spokes with 205-50-15 that required me to downgrade the SHO rotors to the standard size for caliper clearance. I'm having to make everything. Looking to finish up the irs this summer.

That is the 08-15 XB cross flow and much wider. I don' think that will fit even if you modify the tank corners. If you completely remove the existing lower radiator frame mount, that should allow for a better, more vertical fit of the 04-06 radiator.

Just noticed your outer tie rod/sphericals are missing spacers to prevent binding against the eye bolted to the spindle in bump and droop. Just fyi.

I think the 04-06 Scion XB vertical flow racing 2 row radiator is going to be the best cooling for that nose. Make a cardboard pattern the overall size to test fit. Fab mounts from 2x1/8 steel strip drilled to accept grommets. The uppers can bolt on to the chassis with two 1/4 inch screws through a lapped 1/8 strip to weld to the chassis on each end of the radiator. Use a vw or other expansion (pressurized-not an overflow) tank as a fill point near the firewall, connected to the engine via a heater hose fitting on the engine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/374394348564?fits=Year%3A2004|Model%3AxB|Make%3AScion&hash=item572ba46414:g:fwMAAOSwakRjkYfR&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8NAJIzcEU7V0LQR3D%2FzaL81zBzoHmqtp%2B1ENxhLeBtGQr8f0LnmBqcPNJp53Z8VshuT1kxIMjZmLMbHy3ixC7RwFBI2ah0K5BgloW7Oa8HuqAkC1EOOzWi0oB0o61I0MqCUHcia4%2Fv%2Fl54mZoqSKTkpxdJcuoMA%2FH7bficinZxPrSSFrUN1s8u3angnuOxpnOX%2BwUjbcMnjSD4OYZv31iLDrqTiZaN1AM0fMKFwGurm7tGziJMUgxSXX2y3HQ1qaQg8orNR%2FurOnhkAisA9ch5SAOCnD4SV7akbIGttaSbfIsvZBSGY0FtCH30VOwolYQQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_iB9vCiYQ

That's an interesting pressure plate coming off with torsion springs and cooling scoops. If it is a small bur on the nut, the tapered pin can be squeezed into the arm boss with a C-clamp or a vice grip directly to the pin and work the nut back and forth. You can tell if the nut is the issue if it also doesn't turn easily on the other lbj pin threads. Your take off parts (eng/trans, rad, efi, plumbing,exhaust,etc) would make a nice complete setup for the right buyer/builder.

Aftermarket parts mfgs usually have catalogs with specifications. They don't share as much as they used to. They don't list by size so it takes a lot of browsing. They often list tank dims separate from the core. Also, one mfg may not have the same specs as another for a particular application as far as core dims.

I recently installed 165-80-13 Waterfall eco dynamics. Minimal weight, true, and quiet. The only thing I don't like is there are no weight dots to align with the valve. Can be caught on sale around $40 each. I like these better than 175-70 and 155-80. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterfall-Eco-Dynamic-165-80R13-83T-A-S-All-Season-Tire/479492200

Turners Auto Wrecking in Fresno may have a complete '70 cortina axle, stock # ST026. 559 237 0918. Not hard to find just the brakes cheap on UK ebay if you can find a shipper. Try US cortina or capri clubs or salvage yards that specialize in antiques.

I showed you S1. S2 and 3 live axle is like this, similar to dedion. You should be able to buy those new from cat. It looks like the pinion angle is adjustable by loosening the upper link/lower coilover mount brkt U-bolts and rotating the housing.

I don't know. Wheelbase spec can get it close but there is also pinion angle to consider among other things. Better not to rely on someone else's measurement. To make the lowers, I'd fit the dampers without the springs, fenders, and wheels to determine best placement at ride height, wheelbase specs, driveshaft joint angles cancelling, and the forward travel of the wheel in bump. Make lowers, fit, and repeat the process for the uppers. Adjustable length upper arms might be nice to have but not original. A museum like Barber Motorsport in Leeds, AL may allow you to take a measurement.

Rub the rough side across a flat file, sand paper, or nail board and you can reuse them. A thin washer under the head and/or dab of grease to the surface and the screw shoulder will be less likely to tear into them. Typically, there is only a ring gasket between the sender and tank with no sealing washers on the screws on top of the sender.

Push lock type hose is typical and last a while but will harden and crack eventually. For longer lasting hoses: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/mil6000.php The standard: http://everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-DTL/MIL-DTL-6000D_6090/

Full flow fittings (versus elbows), no reducers to shear the oil across sharp internal edges, some slack/stress relief in the hoses that may need to move/grow a tiny amount with pressure/temp or shrink with use/cycles, and may need to be supported for dynamics you can't see when parked.

I noticed the diagram shows a "Regulator - Damper". They are often identical. The purpose of a vacuum port on a damper is to pull fuel into the engine if the damper leaks. Dampers don't regulate. I guess you are going to add a traditional FPR near the damper since this probably has an electric FRP to feedback to the PCM if the pump speed is correct.

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a15133293/caterham-super-seven-roadsport-sv-specialty-file/ The seat squab and back thickness can make a big difference. You may be satisfied with a just a layer of closed cell foam in order to fit. Pedal lengths can be altered to set the pad height to your ball height with shoe heals or there may be a heal board. Pedal pads can also be offset (with reduced dead pedal space). "Mods" could be new fabbed pieces versus modification of the original parts.

It seems familiar to me too. The important stuff looks well done. Probably still for sale. IMHO, maybe a $5k ride as-is to the right buyer in '22. Could be worth a lot more with a little work.

Nice find. That car has a story to tell. Looks like an H&S kit built many years ago with some new parts to get it going and "road worthy"/sellable. MGB power brake booster, british hydraulic clutch, probably a T5, excellent light weight, simple to maintain buick/rover engine, mallory distributor, carter/edelbrock carb. Reasonable weight four lug Mustang 2 and axle no doubt. What a fun project to improve and tinker with on the weekends, starting with the recently added trailer lights. I'm guessing a recent transfer to a "flipper". EDIT: closer look at the pics and it appears the head lights and turn signals are mounted to the upper control rocker arms. Doesn't look like mustang2 spindles after all. A pricey fixer upper for sure.

First, I'd use a six or eight foot 4x4 post under the currently heavy (rear) end, just forward of the shipping support near the seat back. Put the 4x4 ends on a standard concrete block versus jack stands that could easily fall over when lifting the other end. Block long dimension parallel to the chassis rails, short shipping boards inserted in the block holes so the 4x4 can't slide off. To prevent the chassis slipping on the 4x4 and also to prevent scratches, you can use ratchet straps. The straps come as a four pack from Home Depot for $20-30. A single strap could be used to secure both side rails, wrapping the ends then ratcheting in the center. Pull the strap end through the ratchet slot and taught while starting the ratcheting, keeping the strap straight and out of the gears on the sides. You can return the blocks and post afterwards. Overkill, but I don't know your level of dexterity or condition. Love the rim/tire pic. Probably half the weight too.

Some accessories may be sae but otherwise metric. Any unspecified fastener should be 10.9 or 12.9. I think it may be m10-1.5x20 black oxide cap screws (12.9).

I can imagine. Obviously not an alignment shop. Body shops are a good source for finding someone who is equipped to do chassis repair on totaled vehicles. They can vouch for the results. A "Word of mouth" sort of thing. IMHO, the best guy doesn't advertise.

I'm always adding to my library. I've ordered ford oem manuals for an '03 ford for my own edification.