New guy. Here is my Cat

[Vovchandr]

To get my mind off all the other troubleshooting I decided to add some brightness 

 

JAL lights. Outstanding customer service and great product. 

 

Clear lights are now very visible in the day time. 

 

 

[Vovchandr]

Another side project. Added more lightness. Wiper motor gone! Not sure if I'll ever bother trying to stuff it back in. 

 

New dilemma. I expected there to be round holes to fill with my round plugs from CC, however I was left with oval holes that don't really work well with round plugs. 

 

 

 

Still trying to figure out Pectel/ITB/Pectel situation. Found a voltage/throttle table that I might be able to modify to get to 0 and 100. Found out that I do read closed throttle when at 10% throttle, but Im also reading partial throttle even when WOT. 

 

 

[kayentaskier]

how much lightness did you add with the removal of complete wiper assembly?

[Vovchandr]

4 hours ago, kayentaskier said:

how much lightness did you add with the removal of complete wiper assembly?

 

About 4.5 pounds. Not counting the actual wiper blades. 

 

While savings are appreciated this wasn't done with that as primary intent. I just didn't like how the assembly looked sticking out especially when I was never using it. 

 

With that said, now I have to figure out the oval hole dilemma so the plugs sit flush. 

[Vovchandr]

More maintained done today. 

 

20 year old fuel filter replaced. Was probably fine but makes me feel better

 

Was a bigger PITA than expected. Mostly due to the bolt heads being behind the carpet in cockpit while screw gun is in wheel well. Really required 2 people ideally. 

 

 

[Vovchandr]

Also finished swapping the bonnet latches to all black. Made a few mistakes along the way but pretty smooth process overall. 

 

Gave up on trying not to have rivets in frame. Just let them plop in for the back lower mounts. 

 

Very happy with results. 

 

Definitely should have listened to advice and put tape around every time. Rivet gun always tends to jump 

 

 

[Vovchandr]

I also think I found a way to solve my ITB issue for next year

 

 

 

[Vovchandr]

Found my TPS table. 

 

Is this something where I need to adjust it to my needs? I can get better screen shots if needed 

 

Throughout my pedal travel it never reaches 0 or 100 as is. I can slope this to be a sharper slope and ensure I hit both 

 

Any suggestions from experts?

 

Closed throttle I'm at 4.37V at 12.8% TPS. 

 

100% throttle would require 0 voltage. I never reach that right now with full travel in the ITB's as is. Butterflies are 90 degree turned at about 80% indicated TPS (1.25V). TPS sensor cannot be adjusted itself, not in any obvious manner. 2 bolts in plastic, going into 2 bolts in metal. 

 

Edited May 30, 2021 by Vovchandr

[Vovchandr]

Even more interesting. Turning the unbolted TPS unit by hand gave me a sweep of 8.5% to 90%. Anything below 8.5% immediately switched to 90%. So 90%> 8.5% sweep bac, into > 90%. Not even sure what to make of that. Can't get sensor to output value of 0% or 100% at all.

 

Still might be able to quick fix it by adjusting the TPS voltage table?

 

Maybe I'll find another unit to order as well, just in case. 

Edited May 30, 2021 by Vovchandr

[Vovchandr]

 

The adventures continue. 

 

Today on the way to work car started to idle out of control again when not in gear (switching between gears or at idle/clutch in). I think I narrowed down the sequence of events that lead up to this and cause it.

 

Fairly certain it's my TPS sending a 90% throttle input to the ECU so the car starts to get more gas. This isn't real full throttle because the air trumpets are still closed and I no longer have any sort of IAC to be a potential issue. Also the car isn't really accelerating on it's own when in gear.

 

In gear it It isn't accelerating because of 1 of 2 reasons.

1) Either the out of control idle isn't enough to push the car in gear

2) Any throttle input takes it back out of the 90% zone and puts it back into accurate reading zone. To verify this I would need to recreate the event and have my laptop on hand. Which is difficult because the 98 laptop has no good battery and always needs to be plugged in. I'd have to recreate the problem at the house. 

 

 

 

Reason why I think this makes sense.

 

I started to mess with the TPS table yesterday. After playing with it just a little bit, I was unable to get the TPS to not be at 90% (which is set as maximum). Upon tinkering with it no matter what I did it was showing 90% unless I unbolted it and turned it drastically by hand.

 

Not being able to figure out what the problem was I reverted everything back to the way it was and was reading around 10%. 

 

BUT here is what I've learned. just a 1.5% deviation down from that 10% causes the sensor to read 90% input. Anything below 8.5% (which is set as minimum) starts reading as 90%.

 

When I bolted everything back together yesterday I was now at 10% to start (for the last month when everything worked I was at 12%). So now that I was so much closer to 10% when things get hot or whatever else might happen it's causing the sensor to start outputting 90%. 

 

On the side of the road I bumped the butterfly idle screw a little more and that allowed me to get to work. I must be just far enough away from 8.5% to not be triggering 90% input. I'll check to see what TPS % I'm set at now when I get home.

 

It's definitely not the throttle cable. It's definitely not an IAC issue (it's not present) so I'm assuming that this is an ECU setting that's causing the car to idle out of control. 

 

 

Also

I don't know if related but the car started to run hot again during all this happening.

 

Would running very rich cause an overheating issue? Quick google search says it's very possible. Car has been good temp wise for last month, now with out of control idle event it started to get hot. I thought it was running hot that was causing the event, now I think it's the other way around. 

Edited June 1, 2021 by Vovchandr

[BlueBDA]

Good luck with all of this. You're really making me appreciate my Dellortos more.

[JohnCh]

 

3 hours ago, Vovchandr said:

It's definitely not the throttle cable. It's definitely not an IAC issue (it's not present) so I'm assuming that this is an ECU setting that's causing the car to idle out of control. 

 

Based on what you've written earlier, what makes you think it's an ECU setting as opposed to a failing TPS?  Have you already confirmed the TPS is working correctly across its range with a multimeter?

 

-John

[Vovchandr]

13 minutes ago, JohnCh said:

 

 

Based on what you've written earlier, what makes you think it's an ECU setting as opposed to a failing TPS?  Have you already confirmed the TPS is working correctly across its range with a multimeter?

 

-John

 

I have not. I'm pending sourcing a replacement to partition it out and testing the TPS is not something that I'm familiar with. Not ruling it out entirely just yet. 

 

I'm somewhat confused why the ECU has an 8.5% set as minimum and 90% set as maximum for TPS range in either case. 

 

Once I get home I'll be doing more tinkering. 

[JohnCh]

The range the throttle travels is less than the range of the TPS -- i.e. it equates to a smaller range than 0-5 volts.  The ECU needs to understand what voltage equals idle and what voltage equals full throttle so it can interpolate the engine load at any given throttle opening and apply the right fuel and spark for that load and rpm.  I'm not sure if Pectel has a calibration setting to do this or if you are supposed to determine idle and full throttle voltage settings and build it yourself.  In the Emerald, you simply go to a settings page, click OK, floor the throttle, release the throttle, then click OK again.  The software figures out the range from there.   If I understand what you wrote earlier, it sounds like the TPS voltage is not sweeping linearly from 0-5 volts.  If that's the case, the ECU will be feeding the wrong fuel and spark to the engine when the voltage reading is false.  If you have a multimeter, do a search for how to check if a TPS is working correctly (I'm sure there are multiple videos showing the process) and see what happens as you rotate it from 0-100%.  

 

-John

[sf4018]

My TPS was 1.1V for 0% and 4.7V for 100%, if I disconnect the TP the feedback goes negative. For the byte used on CAN ID: 0CBB0001 for TPS feedback the range was 60 decimal to 239 decimal. 0v=0, 5V=255. No idea how this relates to your TPS but maybe a frame of reference. You seem to be getting numbers going backwards which makes no sense. Maybe its comparing feedback to 5v instead of 0v which would indicate a wiring issue?? No idea.

[Vovchandr]

26 minutes ago, sf4018 said:

My TPS was 1.1V for 0% and 4.7V for 100%, if I disconnect the TP the feedback goes negative. For the byte used on CAN ID: 0CBB0001 for TPS feedback the range was 60 decimal to 239 decimal. 0v=0, 5V=255. No idea how this relates to your TPS but maybe a frame of reference. You seem to be getting numbers going backwards which makes no sense. Maybe its comparing feedback to 5v instead of 0v which would indicate a wiring issue?? No idea.

 

Thank you. Any information helps. I do look to be reverse of you. I don't think it's an issue of concern honestly. 

 

I just looked where I'm sitting now. I'm at 10% TPS at idle, where I used to be 12% before I messed with it and took it off/remounted it etc.

 

Here is what my table/graph looks like

 

Third picture is what I'm trying to adjust it down to.

 

I'm also trying to reset the minimum and maximum to 0 and 100. This however is what caused a TPS too low alarm in the ECU and caused it to be reading max at idle, which made me revert all the changes

 

 

 

 

 

Graph

 

Table

 

 

Trying to change it to something like this. Where 0 and 100 hit at a narrower range

 

Edited June 2, 2021 by Vovchandr

[sf4018]

I think you're going in the right direction, shouldn't the white line in the last pic be at 100%?

[Vovchandr]

8 minutes ago, sf4018 said:

I think you're going in the right direction, shouldn't the white line in the last pic be at 100%?

 

I think you're right. It should probably spike up instead of spiking left. 

 

I honestly have no idea what I'm doing and just doing the best with information I got. Pectel/DeskPro in general has very little information about it online so I'm poking around and texting things. 

 

I'll get further tomorrow. Information I got so far for Pectel/DeskPro was saying I shouldn't flash new maps with ecu voltage being less than 12. I was at 11.6 last time I messed with it so leaving it charging. 

 

One of the big things is to try to get my wideband situated so I have better idea at whats happening with my AFR as I mess with TPS as the maps are based off that 

 

 

[wemtd]

There is a discussion forum on the Haltech web page & some basic information in the manuals for the Sport line of ECU’s. All regarding settings and lots of Q & A in the forum.

[Kitcat]

What about posting your dilemma on the FocusFanatics Forum? They have tons of experience with Zetec SVT's. And a word search for Pectel showed a number of threads.