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Found an existing hole and drilled it out so I could fit a pen magnet inside the hole. Using another magnet (from an old motorcycle tank bag, really strong for it’s size) I moved the rivets to the enlarged hole, which is where you then play the game of getting rivet to stand vertically on the pen magnet. Hours of fun. 
 

I thought I had them all but based on the sound of the continued rattle I’d guess I have the same amount to yet get out, just got find what frame tubes they are in... how’s it go... part of the charm :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Speaking of wings. 

 

Decided to look into why my driver side has failed over and over again. Failed with bolts, failed with big heads (2x) etc. 

 

Used the awesome 7 ball joint tool for the first time and swapped the fender stay for a new 13in and discovered a few things. 

 

1) old one was twisted which likely explains uneven pressure/stress causing failures 

 

2) the new stay makes the fender sit much higher 

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

For my overheating voes decided to flush the coolant a few times (10x without even starting it until it went more clear)

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Still can't start until ITB's come back from being rebuilt

Edited by Vovchandr
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Has anybody ever try to use SBFS trunk liners while carpeted? I'm having no luck. They don't stick for obvious reasons but they also don't stay/fit 

 

 

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I am not surprised that the new wing stays are at a different height.  There have been a lot of different types over the years as they moved through different sized Avon tire specs on the 15 inch wheels.  There was always a gap when you used them with 13 inch wheels as the rotational diameter always shrank a little from the slightly smaller wheel/tire combination.  I agree that the twisted support likely did you in every time with the wing coming off.  

 

The SBFS liners were designed to be used without the carpet.  Not all Caterhams got boot side carpet - mostly bare ali.   i would also use double sided velcro to stick it down.  

 

 

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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Croc said:

 

I am not surprised that the new wing stays are at a different height.  There have been a lot of different types over the years as they moved through different sized Avon tire specs on the 15 inch wheels.  There was always a gap when you used them with 13 inch wheels as the rotational diameter always shrank a little from the slightly smaller wheel/tire combination.  I agree that the twisted support likely did you in every time with the wing coming off.  

 

The SBFS liners were designed to be used without the carpet.  Not all Caterhams got boot side carpet - mostly bare ali.   i would also use double sided velcro to stick it down.  

 

 

 

I was hoping they were the same but planned for the worst which is why I ordered a matching one for the other side. Still don't like how high they sit so I'll try to fix the old one and put it back on. It needed a paint/powdercoat job anyway. 

 

I ordered these

 


76103 - CYCLE WINGSTAY LH 13/14 WHEEL ROAD USE

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/brackets/1112-cycle-wingstay-lh-13-14-wheel-road-use.html?search_query=76103&results=1

 

Maybe I should have ordered these? 

 

76101 - CYCLE WINGSTAY LH 13" ZZS/ZZR TYRES

I'm amazed they CC has so little information on many of their parts. Zero measurements or references for these mounts is a good example. 

 

Or even a race one? Hm.. I'll keep looking into it. 


In regards to double sided velcro, you mean the type that would have hooks on both sides? Or hooks on one side and glue on the other? Having a hard time figuring out how it would grab onto the SBFS liner part other than tackiness of a glue.

 

There is also zero chance that the fuel filler cover will fit as is with liner underneath it so I have to likely trim it up a bit. 

 

 

It's a very nice product that serves a purpose, so I definitely intent to mastermind a way to utilize it in the end. 

 

Edit: Spoke with Redline. Yes my mounts are taller. Part number "3" indicates that. 76103. (4 for right hand). I need Part number 1 (2 for right hand). 76101. Race mounts are identical except they dont have a hole for the signal wire and they are beefier. 

Edited by Vovchandr
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My Caterham shipped with 13" Avons so presumably I have the 76101 stays.  If you want me to measure so you can compare to your original stays just let me know.

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38 minutes ago, Pokey said:

My Caterham shipped with 13" Avons so presumably I have the 76101 stays.  If you want me to measure so you can compare to your original stays just let me know.

 

I appreciate it but I don't think it will be necessary. I'm confident in Redline evaluation but more importantly I'm having the hardest part measuring the difference between the old one and the new one here. I've used string, tape measure, hoses etc. It's a very subtle difference that's rather hard to measure on a round tube with an arbitrary start point of a circle. I potentially could use tape but I didn't want to deal with residue. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Tried to get a duplicate key made. Ordered a blank from England. 

 

Got to a local key smith who says "I hope it's not steel". I tell him I have no idea. He puts it up against a magnet and sure enough it sticks. 

 

Tells me he can't make a copy of that key as it needs a carbide unit. Hes got a similar enough key that might work but he can't guarantee it from some other euro brand. 

 

I rolled the dice and no luck. Doesn't go in far enough. 

 

Left is blank. Mid is oem. Right is new. 

 

You can see right has a slightly shorter neck. 

 

 

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Edited by Vovchandr
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When I got tired of fumbling with the steering column ignition switch under the dash I put a simple ignition switch w/o a steering lock on the dash.  It was fairly simple to do and much easier to live with.  I removed the old switch and its steering lock.  IIRC the new ignition switch was for a '60s Chevrolet truck purchased new from NAPA.

 

It is the silver circle between the two gauges on the right side of the dash board.

 

 

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That's a  great idea. I have inadvertently hit the key with my knee in autocrosses and shut off the ignition. The first time I thought my engine had died, I don't  need the steering lock and moving the ignition switch away from my right knee will give me peace of mind.

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When I'm really bored and feeling flush, I'll replace the key/pushbutton in my Caterham with a FOB/pushbutton solution.

 

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I actually don't want to lose the key. It's a stupid small thing that I actually enjoy doing. I don't like push button starts. 

 

I even have a spare, but I want to put a key into the "7" key fob which requires me to cannibalize the head of one of the keys to fit and didn't want to do it to originals. 

 

The heads of my keys are nothing like the cut out so I have to butcher the top to make it work. 

 

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Any luck finding a more adventuresome locksmith, or take a set of files & calipers to your blank until you have something that works?

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, wemtd said:

Any luck finding a more adventuresome locksmith, or take a set of files & calipers to your blank until you have something that works?

 

No luck with other lock smiths but yesterday decided to get some tools out. 

 

Results are mixed. Some success some new issues. 

 

Started with the dremel. Demolished the block plates that stopped the key from going all the way. Success! It actually worked. 

 

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Proceeded to butcher the key to make it fit into the key fob. Lots of measuring, dremel attachments and eventually using bolt cutters I've had more success. 

 

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That's when around midnight I ran into more problems. The fob now stops the key from going in all the way. 

 

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So I've made further adjustments and now the key turns with the fob... But it won't come out. The way the cylinders are the key needs to push in further from operating depth in order to pop out. 


So at this point more butchering awaits..

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Vovchandr
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I bet most car drivers never think about working on car keys, or switches.  Good thing Seven owners are not anal.

 

When I got my Birkin, the original owner just left the key in the switch, even if parked in the open.  Super good karma?  The problem was that the ear of the key jammed against the padded lower dash, so the key could not rotate to LOCK to be removed.  Not having led such a holy life, one of my first projects was to remove the key.  I patiently fiddled it with pliers and bit by bit got it out without damaging the padding.  Next step (besideskey.thumb.jpg.f71a2053f36860cdf5dabdb08fe89083.jpgswitch.thumb.jpg.346fafcae6642dc5b4d2032580d45493.jpg getting a duplicate) was to cut off some of the side that was fouling.

 

I do like the idea of putting a switch in the dash, rather than the column lock.  The switch is on the right, and it is a RHD car.  I have to bend over and insert the key from outside.  Once seated, I can't see it and it requires a bunch of fumbling around.  

 

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