Chassis Stands

[11Budlite]

As my new Caterham kit is soon to be arriving, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with chassis stands being used in place of the typical axle stands. I have a couple different sets of axle stands but I'm intrigued by these chassis stands because of the available 28" height and how that would help an old guy like me work on the car. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3175

[yellowss7]

Hi Bruce, it's been almost 20 yrs since I assembled mine using standard jack stands. My question to you is how much help do you have? When I assembled mine, I did everything on the stands, including the motor and gearbox. So when it came time to put it on the ground, I was worried about the balance and the stands being pulled/tipped when lowering one end. I had four friends hold on to the back end as I lowered the front, just to make sure it didn't slip.

 

If you have it up 28 inches, I'm just wondering how you get it on the ground as you add weight.

 

Tom

[breezy7]

I used saw horses when I built mine https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-32-in-2-Way-Adjustable-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620

 

Used them until I had the suspension installed and then set it on the ground with the help of 3 friends and finished the build using jack stands.

[wemtd]

Being a good Yankee i use cinder blocks & a pair of 4x4's. it lets me adjust the height and prevents lower back strain from bending over.

[xcarguy]

. . . If you have it up 28 inches, I'm just wondering how you get it on the ground as you add weight.

 

.....well :rofl:

[Kitcat]

See the currently active Rotus-rebuild photos for his chassis stand solution:).

[11Budlite]

Thanks for all the help guys...and for the laughs! I was planning on doing all the work I could do with it up on the stands and then lower it to the ground (or the lower axle stands) and then install the engine/transmission. I think I'm going to try them out because I can always use them on my vintage race chassis too when I start working on that. Or I might just get that lift I've always wanted if I could just get my garage done.....:banghead:

[wemtd]

I can't remember what works best for a Caterham. But i long ago found the birkin engine/gearbox goes more smoothly lowering down onto a dolly. (I've lost track of how often it's happened)

[fastg]

I used a pair of folding leg saw horses set on the lowest setting. rated at 1200 pounds. Worked perfectly on the lowest setting it was just at the right height for working on.

 

Graham

 

https://www.amazon.com/WORKESS-WK-SH017A-1-Adjustable-Jobsite-Telescopic/dp/B07FWPXM35/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=folding+sawhorse&qid=1570647302&sr=8-16

[dallasdude]

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16079&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16081&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16080&stc=1

[escondidoron]

For the restoration of my '62 I picked up a very well used Harbor Freight utility trailer. I welded a steel channel to the middle and then fab'd a couple of vertical posts for each end with pivot tubes at the top. What I ended up with is a portable rotisserie. It is unbelievable convenient to work on the car and also very easy to move around the shop, not to mention tow to remote sites as may sometimes be required. The powder coating folks loved it when they blasted the chassis.

 

 

It may seem like overkill but it has proven to be extremely user friendly. Today when I was finalizing the wiring harness and plumbing in the aft bay (boot) it was very nice to be able to flip the car on it's side and work on everything right in front of you.

 

 

I just use jack stands to steady the car when it if right side up.

 

 

And it only takes up a little more space than the car itself.

 

The height of the end posts are adjustable in 1" increments. for travel I usually lower the chassis to redo on a piece of plywood on the surface of the trailer.

[powderbrake]

A demonstration of "work smarter, not harder". Very unique and useful.

[coffee break]

The aluminum fab work looks great, did you use the original skin for patterns?

[Insurme]

Nice!! Tell us about making those side panels.

[escondidoron]

The aluminum fab work looks great, did you use the original skin for patterns?

 

Thank you both, Coffee Break and Jerry, for the kind words.

 

Yes I did make patterns from the original skins. but in the end, a friend of mine had a new chassis shipped over and I was able to take advantage of his shipping container, so while I did fab the floor, footwell, pedal garage and boot interior panels I did not fab the exterior skins, driveshaft tunnel, cowl and bonnets (I have 2 bonnets, one in the original S2 style and a second piece for regular driving that is louvred in the later Caterham style for regular driving and track days). Prior to installation I polished all of the exterior panels. I'm hoping that I don't regret that decision for maintenance reasons in the long term. Here's a pic of the Arch Motors order all laid out on the driveway on the day that I unpacked the shipment:

 

I Installed the side skins on my rotisserie trailer in the driveway at home. I had to remove the chassis from the rotisserie to install the rear wrap around panel. So I did that portion of the re-skin on a workbench for convenience.

 

The side panels went on in a couple of hours for each side. To ease the riveting I used a pneumatic rivet gun wherever space and access permitted. I also applied high strength gray silicone sealant to all of the seams and mating surfaces prior to attachment of all of the skins except for the hand wrapped portions of the cockpit arches and rear panel where heat had to be applied for annealing. I used 0.06" thick 6061 aluminum for the structural pieces, i.e. the floor and torque boxes instead of the original 0.03" material. Everything else is 5051 (or the UK equivalent) for ease of forming. In addition to the polishing I did some engine turning on a few of the pieces (I've always wanted a Bugatti!).

 

As a side note, if you have ever seen the program, "How It's Made, Dream Cars: Caterham", installation of the hand wrapped panels looks simple. In actual practice it takes a fair amount of skill. It took 3 long days to wrap the rear corners and side arches! Also, I paid a visit to Arch Motors a year ago and was given hands on instruction in how to install the rear and side arch panels. It proved to be a wise investment.

 

The car is back on it's wheels as of this past weekend. The engine is in and I have done the new cam break-in run. So far, so good. I still have quite a bit of work to do but I'm optimistic that it might be drivable by the end of the month.

[BruceBe]

Three jack stands - one at the front on the center cruciform, and two at the back, on the square section of chassis tube at the forward A-frame mounts. Engine hoist legs will not clear formula car stands, sawhorses, and double jack stands in the front.