Help picking a tow vehicle and trailer for my Caterham

[Vovchandr]

Ok looked them up. Likely Montrose trailers. Not in your budget. Likely not in budget of most people here. Disregard suggestion 

[Davemk1]

Hello - here's what's been working very well for me.

 

I have a single axle, tilt bed steel trailer made by a company called Top Notch trailers in Washington state. The bed is 14' long and the trailer weighs 1150 lbs....the car and trailer package weigh 2350 lbs all together.

 

I tow it with a 2020 Honda Ridgeline and the truck as a rated towing capacity of 5000 lbs. The trailer has its own brakes and they are controlled by an aftermarket brake controller I bought from eTrailer. The truck is wired for a controller so it's a plug and play set up.

 

I tow about 3000 miles a year all around the state of Montana and that means that it goes over major passes on most trips and the truck does a great job pulling the load up and dealing with it coming down large and fast hills. I have the tongue weight set at 12% and the whole set up is super stable and when rolling down the interstate at 70+ mph you could forget the trailer was back there.

 

I get about 19.5 mpg towing down the highway...a little less if it's windy. The truck as all the modern stuff like carplay, heated seats, back-up camera...etc.

 

I've been towing this car on this trailer for the past 11 years. The first ten years I used a 2006 Honda Ridgeline and I recently upgraded to the 2020 model to get the modern stuff. The old truck towed it just as well but the mileage wasn't as good with its 5 speed trans (new truck as 9 speed). I'd estimate that I have about 30,000 miles with this set up and never once felt spooked, never had it wag, never had trouble getting up and over major passes. It's been better than I imagined it would be. It works so well a close friend who tows a Subaru BRZ bought the same set up and he has had the same result even though the car weights so much more.

 

It's worth considering.

 

dave

 

 

 

 

 

[Marek]

What a nice setup. We've found the Ridgeline tows very well and is a comfortable ride; and that even with the heavier Miata, the single axle with brakes is never a problem. There is so much trailer anxiety in the US and we only have to look at the trailer and tow vehicle configurations common in the UK to see it.  Add Lightness works for towing too.  A tow rig with a capacity 3x the weight of our cars doesn't really add comfort, convenience, or safety.

 

If you are looking for a good budget tow vehicle and don't mind something a little older, the previous generation diesel X5 is a great candidate.  They are cheap, the drivetrains are very low maintenance, and the tow very well.

[11Budlite]

I've had a very similar experience to Dave. I've owned a Mission 14' single-axle aluminum trailer since 2007 that I towed with a 2007 Honda Ridgeline. It has electric brakes with a Tekonsha brake controller and has worked well for many years, returning 15-16mpg while towing. Combined weight of the trailer and Seven was between 2000-2100#. I would still be using the 2007 Ridgeline if it hadn't started to show signs of rust here in the northeast. I recently replaced that Ridgeline with a 2022 model that has worked out even better, returning 18-20mpg depending on terrain, traffic, and average speed. It's very stable towing and I usually cruise at 70-75mph.  

 

Definitely worth considering if you can get by with an open trailer. I too would like to see a lightweight clamshell trailer like they have available in the UK.

[11Budlite]

On 11/17/2025 at 4:54 PM, savagete2860 said:

I really REALLY wish those clam shell trailers that are all over the place in the UK were sold over here. I would snag one of those up in a second. I am guessing there isn't really anything comparable in the states, right? I haven't found anything but maybe I haven't looked everywhere. Maybe its worth reaching out to some custom trailer places and seeing if they could build something similar within a reasonable budget.

 

 

I agree, I saw this setup and saved the photo as one of my favorite trailers setups. 

 

Edited November 19, 2025 by 11Budlite

[NSXguy]

5 minutes ago, 11Budlite said:

 

I agree, I saw this setup and saved the photo as one of my favorite trailers setups. 

 

 

Thats a lovely setup. i would rock it. 

 

[slowdude]

I use an overpriced tiguan (macan) and a uhaul trailer. The macan can handle 4k, and with the car and the uhaul trailer, it was fine. Two hours and some highway driving, the 4cyl pulled fine at 75mph.

 

I guess what I am trying to say is that any modern, compact SUV with a 4k rating should be more than enough. Most Americans do not need f150s etc to tow these things, look at Europe, they tow these with station wagons.

 

Since you cant store a trailer, perhaps realistically looking at how many track days you go to a year vs getting a uhaul is more cost effective.

 

Figure a new trailer is $6,000, plus insurance and storage in your case.

 

A uhaul trailer for me for a weekend was $90. That is something like 65 track day weekends to break even on your 6k trailer purchase, not including your monthly storage.

 

 

 

 

[Kitcat]

Most trailers come with cheap bias plied tires that are prone to flats. So always carry a spare(or 2).

 

My first trailer upgrade was replacing its standard bias plied trailer tires with high quality radial ones.

 

Also, many trailer tires have a maximum speed rating of 65 mph. It’s worth checking that rating before choosing a replacement or, when renting a U-Haul.

[panamericano]

Speaking of spars.  If you have a trailer built, get it with the same bolt pattern as the towing unit.  You might be able to have an extra spare that way, if it fits in the fenders.  Only one spare means that if you have a flat and mount the spare, you then have to get the flat fixed immediately.  Otherwise you're running with no spare.  You can finish the day if you have another spare om hand.

 

 

[savagete2860]

Again, I appreciate everyone comments. I have some good advice here. Tire ratings are on my list now of things to check.

 

It might not make financial sense in the near or medium term, but time spent dealing with uhaul every track event and hauling around a questionable trailer doesn't seem worth it to me. I get people do this all the time, but it just seems like it would be a lot less stressful if it was my own trailer. I think that peace of mind is probably worth the financial trade off. Also, the biggest piece is I still like the idea of enclosed over open.

 

I am confident a 7x14 enclosed would fit a 7 no issues. @Timothy Keith-Lucas you mentioned you are towing a 7x12 enclosed, how much left over room is there with your 7 loaded up? Is it a V nose? If you had to get a new trailer, would you buy that same size again if it was specific to your 7? How are you securing in your 7? Pictures here or in the thread @Vovchandr started (thank you, btw) would be super useful for me just to see as well if you had any. 7x12 sounds ideal but I want to make sure I am not going to be handicapping myself.

 

I have been looking around on a few sites at trailers. Looking at https://www.stealthtrailers.com/enclosed-7-wide-cargo-trailers, it looks like bare bones aluminum v nose tandem axle 7x14s trailers can come in around 14-1500 lbs. Same setup in 7x12 are 1-200lbs less. I haven't weighed my car, but allegedly it is 1235lbs without doors or roof and 5 gallons of fuel. So I am assuming 1300lbs for car weight that puts me at anywhere from 2600-2800lbs. Throw on trailer brakes (no idea on weight of this stuff) and the actual straps (again, no real idea on weight here), etc, would a safe estimate be 3000lbs enclosed? I think so but I want to make sure there is nothing I am totally missing here.

 

Is anyone here paying attention to tongue weight? Being new to towing, reading about sway I want to make sure whatever I get I can put in that 10-15% range. I am wondering if I can even get to 10% tongue weight if I go with a smaller enclosed trailer with a v nose with just the car loaded up.

 

Anyways, assuming my assumptions are right, or at least in the ball park, towing load should be about 2800-3200lbs with a tongue weight of 280-320lbs (10%) to 420-480lbs (15%). Does that seems reasonable for any vehicle with a tow rating of 4k, electronic brakes, and also assuming payload can handle the tongue weight, passengers, tools, and a spare set of wheel/tires?

Edited November 26, 2025 by savagete2860

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

A 12' enclosed has 12' in the square before the triangular nose. Sevens are 11' long. We have a small winch in the V with two leads to the truck battery, and both the bed and the ramp back door have 2x4 tracks that keep the wheels straight as the winch pulls the Seven (or my wife's Model T) in. The front wheels hit chocks, so the front end is held between the taut winch cable and the chocks.  At the rear end we have tie-downs that secure it both fore and aft. 

 

Open trailers: You're not tending toward them, but if you do a 6x12 utility trailer will do it if you take off the tailgate ramp and use 8' aluminum ramps from Harbor Freight. Same winch rig. Most of the open trailers I see above are aluminum; that ups the price a bunch. Our 7x12 enclosed cost $4,400 and the open trailer $1,900 three years ago, but we live near the manufacturers.

 

It's raining right now but if you want pictures I can post them in a few days. The down side of cheaper steel trailers is that they weigh more. For going a distance, the enclosed trailer is not comfortable behind a Dodge Caravan but the open trailer is. An SUV with a bit of muscle would pull either, I think.

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

In all, I think our modifying stock enclosed and utility trailers saved us a bunch of money with minor added inconvenience. Both trailers get used for other tasks, as well.

[savagete2860]

1 hour ago, Timothy Keith-Lucas said:

For going a distance, the enclosed trailer is not comfortable behind a Dodge Caravan

What is not comfortable for long distances? Sway? Acceleration/braking? I think your setup is closest to what I will likely end up with, so if you're saying it kind of sketchy feeling for longer hauls I need to take that into consideration.

 

Does your trailer have brakes? Any idea on weight? I'd love a picture when you are able to its not too much to ask.

 

Like you said, a seven is almost 11ft, which only gives a hair over 1ft to move the car to adjust tongue weight. The reason I was asking about the V nose is that it will push the car back further than a non-vnose trailer, i think. I don't know if that is good or bad relating to tongue weight. A 14' obviously gives your more room to move  backwards if needed, but would have the same problem moving forward V nose vs flat.

[Vovchandr]

10% tongue matters for cars where limit is close to what you're towing. Barely matters on a full size truck or likely even quarter ton. 

 

Take everybody's advice with nuance in mind depending on what vehicle they are towing with, what total weight is and whether they are being smart about it. 

 

A Honda Civic can tow 5000 lbs at 3mph safely while even a 1 ton truck can't safely tow full 5000lbs at 100mph even though it's rated for much more. 

 

Speed is a HUGE factor in equation of safety and comfort of towing and risks increase exponentially.

 

Even with that said besides speed tongue weight can be absolutely crucial at speed. 

 

Even with tongue weight it's a good idea to have a weight distribution hitch to help with away control for any enclosed. 

 

All I'm trying to say towing is a great means to an end of track days and other uses but unless you have a real truck (which I didn't want to own a truck) there are a lot of caveats and considerations to make it safe. 

 

Full size trucks are so good at what they do and are so overbuild most people towing don't have to worry about anything and they barely even feel a trailer below 5000lbs. 

 

I only tow like 6 times a year total so I'm fine with compromises and overthinking it for those 6 days as long as I don't have to own a truck for the other 350+ days

 

You should be fine with any vehicle that's rated for 5000lbs. If you're cutting it close, consider aluminum trailer. 

 

My 18ftx7.5 enclosed with car and tools and spares is around 4100 lbs. 

Edited November 26, 2025 by Vovchandr

[CBuff]

 

@bball7754  was this your rig

 

 

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

Good morning.

We have 14 people for Thanksgiving dinner today, so give me a day or two to photograph the enclosed trailer we use. 

 

I don't think that you'll have to worry about weight distribution. While there is very little fore-aft adjustment available, the single axle is 5'0" from the back and 7'0" from the front of the 12' box. Any car put in that space that does not have its CG in front of the axle is going to have some serious handling problems.  And that's the point. As long as you've got tongue weight, the trailer is not likely to start oscillating. As long as the tongue weight is not so much that your headlights spot owls, you are OK.

As Vovchandr suggests, any old full-sized pickup truck will pull the enclosed trailer. The Dodge Caravan strains - lots of gearing down even on flat Florida roads. We'd like that van to last another 100,000 miles. Pulling the enclosed trailer plus car seems like abuse. On the other hand, the open utility trailer plus my 7 is under 1,800 pounds, and the Caravan is happy again. We have a ratty old Ford F-150 that does utility work and pulls the enclosed trailer quite well.  

[Davemk1]

I found that with my tilt bed 14' trailer that I needed to park the car as far forward as possible...and...I mounted my fuel can and spare trailer tire to the nose of the trailer to get the tongue weight at 12%. The weight distribution of a Seven is far enough back that it can be a challenge to get enough tongue weight. This is why I mounted the fuel can and spare tire up front.

 

Some appear to suggest that tongue weight doesn't matter that much since the car and trailer are light. I would push back on this in a big way. If you've ever experienced trailer sway you know it's deadly and nothing to mess with. Even a light car/trailer combo weighs enough to set up sway in a full sized truck. In my experience it is more than worth the time to measure and adjust.

 

I was driving my set up very early one morning before sun rise and I was moving along at about 70 mph when suddenly there was an elk standing in the road. One does not hit an elk and keep moving like it was a white tail deer. An elk weights about 700 lbs. It will for sure total your vehicle at a minimum. I needed to swerve violently to avoid the elk and the truck missed it but the trailer fender hit it and the whole system slid and swayed and then instantly went back into a calm and smooth sway-free roll down the road...as if nothing ever happened. The the tongue weight was not set properly it would not have ended that way. Please be careful to set your tongue weight. It's easy to do and will keep you from having a bad story to tell.

 

dave

[bball7754]

15 hours ago, CBuff said:

 

@bball7754  was this your rig

 

 

Yup, that’s mine.😊

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

OK, here we go. First photo ordinary 7x12 enclosed trailer for my wife's Model T and my Seven. Second photo inside the front of the trailer with the winch, controller, and double wire that goes to the truck battery. Note chocks and 2x4 rails.  Third photo the back end with rails and tie-downs. The outside rails guide the Model T wheels and the inside rails guide the Seven. Fourth photo is detail at the top of the ramp. Since the rails for the Seven are inside the wheels, the rails have been crudely cut down to prevent the Seven bottoming at the ramp/trailer bed joint.

 

Overall, it's a cheap rig, $4,400 for the trailer and a few hundred for the winch, wiring, and 2x4s. When we need an extra garage bay either the Seven or the Model T is stored in the trailer.

[bball7754]

Just saw this thread.  I posted about my trailer in the “other” trailer thread, but happy to provide same (or more) info here.

 

I’ve had a clamshell Montrose trailer for about 10 years now.  I originally purchased it for my Seven, but it’s also used for my Mallock.

 

It’s aluminum, and I think weighs around 1,400 lbs.  I originally towed it with a Volvo XC60, which had an official capacity of 3,000 lbs.  It had a tow package, but not wired for a brake controller.  I opted for the Tekonsha wireless brake controller, which has worked well.  The trailer is extremely stable, unbothered by cross-winds.  Other than acceleration and braking, not really aware it’s back there.

 

I now tow it with a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the tow package, still using the Tekonsha controller.  Jeep has a 5,000 lbs tow capacity.

 

Steve