bball7754

Seems to me your effort deserves a dedicated thread. 😊. Doubt I’m the only one who finds your build interesting. Clam shells? They would be appropriate on the Cape! 😊 Steve

I insure my Caterham with them, and enjoy their magazine, but wasn’t aware of the rest of their ventures and direction. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/16/business/classic-cars-hagerty.html Steve

I purchased a Crossflow over the summer, and he had at least one other to sell. Believe it was a 711M. He is in SC, and can put you in touch if you’d like. But, I came across this post after I’d purchased the engine. Wish I’d seen it before - I could have gone and gotten the engine rather than paying for shipping. https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13328-locost-parts-for-sale/

Quite a build, worth the read.

I have no wisdom to add, other than sharing a few photos of my experience with insufficient octane. This happened after about three (maybe two) laps at NJMP. I had filled my fuel containers on the way to the track, and have wondered if the attendant didn’t fill them with Premium as requested.

Did Caterham/Arch notch the chassis, or was that a modification made once kits reached the US? My recollection is that some of the first, if not the first, Zetec’s were installed in US cars. The lack of a body patch on the right side to cover where the Zetec exhaust would have been confirms to me that this always had a Duratec. Believe the early Duratec cars had the notched left rear fender as that was all Caterham made at that time. This may be a one of one Seven, with the combination of clam shells, Duratec, red interior, wagon wheels, and white piping on the tonneau cover.

Hmmm…. first review I looked at on Pistonheads had multiple statements that the sidewall is “very stiff”. Not good for a Seven.

Anyone ever use Nankang tires? Saw these on a Europa on BAT, and was pleasantly surprised to see they are available in 14”, both 55 and 60. https://www.nankangusa.com/passenger-tires/ns-2r-sportnex/ Steve

I thought the rear fenders looked different. They seem narrower, more Series 1/2 like. They would look good with my clamshells, I think.

Found the KitKat thread: Sounds like Redline is your best option. Steve

I know Mike (KitKat) had a half-shaft issue, so I expect he’ll be around soon to provide info on his experience. As I remember, it was quite a challenge to find parts. Steve

Just booked a VIP Suite, and will register shortly. New helmet arrived yesterday. Oil changed, brakes bled, new front pads. And I’ve squeezed in an econo $10 polish job. 😊 Targeting arrival around 2:00 on Saturday. Have been in touch with TJ to do a quick alignment, although I’ll run even if I can’t get it done. Steve

What did you decide regarding the head gasket? Just curious. That photo that showed the small round opening sort of looked like a plugged channel, particularly thinking back to all the rust removal efforts you went through. Steve

I needed a new helmet regardless, so that’s been ordered. Many racing organizations, including the VSCDA that I run with, are still accepting SA2010 helmets this year. But next year I’ll need a 2015 or 2020.

After a long hibernation, my Caterham is back running. So……I’m now a possible. My belts are fine, but primary issue is a new helmet, which I’m working on. Need an oil change and brake bleed, but those are scheduled for tonight or tomorrow. And I have to accept that it wouldn’t get a fresh polish before the event. Steve

Do you have a Pertronix ignition in the distributor? I had an intermittent issue with the Crossflow in my Mallock which got worse and worse. It finally cut out on track at Road America, and it wouldn’t start. I had a spare ignition, which I installed, and it still wouldn’t start. It had fuel, and electric from the coil to the distributor. I had read that the normal brown color rotors can be a problem. Pulled the rotor, and showed it to an extremely knowledgeable mechanic who prepares vintage race cars. He took a one second look at it and said it was bad, and was shorting out. I found a replacement red rotor at the track, put it in, and it started immediately. No issues since. Steve

I also found that pumping slowly was the key, and agree 1/2 is about the max. However, I still have the occasional overfill, usually right after I’ve polished the aluminum.

I’m pretty sure everyone on this site reads BAT daily, but for those few who don’t or have missed this article: https://bringatrailer.com/2021/07/26/event-coverage-the-huntsville-cyclekart-grand-prix/ The first video is excellent, and gives a great presentation of the types of personalities drawn to CycleKarts. Seems to me they would fit in fairly well with Seven owners. 😊 Stev

As the owner of a Crossflow powered 1998 Caterham, I found this interesting. But I wonder if someone whose “base” is something like a 620R would feel the same way after driving an older, Crossflow Seven. https://www.goodwood.com/grr/road/news/2021/7/new-vs.-old-caterham--which-is-best--thank-frankel-its-friday/ Steve

Believe the caps are supplied to Caterham by Mocal. I lost my cap, and was able to get a replacement from British American Transfer. They have the Mocal literature on their site, which includes all the dimensions. I think Caterham uses the Aero 300. https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/e112be6e/files/uploaded/cap.pdf Steve

Wasn’t clear in my post. What I meant was that when I saw the Dare on BAT, I wondered if Mike would include it. Then came here and saw that he had.

Was wondering if you would include the Dare on BAT.☺️

I agree with John. Believe it’s “unpressurized” because it vents to an open catch tank. I think of a pressurized system as onethat is completely closed, including the overflow/expansion tank. With the open tank, you’re dependent on the cooling of the engine and (I think) resulting decrease in pressure to suck the coolant back into the system. So, it is important that the tube extend to the bottom of tank, otherwise it won’t suck the coolant back in. Not that it always does regardless.🙂

Roman