wemtd

As noted above: Elevate the vehicle (not trusting jack stands I use concrete blocks & Timbers - or a lift if you've got one). Remove all ancillaries from the engine & prop shaft so it will clear the frame. Using straps around the engine at it's neutral balance point (cylinder 4 in my case) and an overhead hoist: unbolt the engine/gearbox and lower onto a dolly & slide out. Perform your selected maintenance project or annual dusting & polishing tasks. Note: This method keeps the gearbox level which avoids the gear oil pouring out the T9's tailshaft all over the floor (no matter what I've tried it still leaks out if inclined). It's also easier to re-fill/change gearbox oil outside the car. I've done this more times than I care to admit (possibly rivaling Folis Jone's record). installation is the reverse. Budget twice the time for re-assembly than removal. A little bonding with your car & exchange of blood for oil is part of ownership. cheers p.

What was your preferred hearing protection for the kiddos?

Well... here is the post-mortem thus far: looks as though a seal in the slave cylinder failed. I hope this is just an intrinsic failure. But If anyone has other ideas regarding a subtle malalignment or such could contribute to this I'd love to know.

Re: fuel float. IIRC when adjusting my VDO gauge I used an ohm meter to read output as I adjusted float position. I also drove (casually) one evening with a jerry can and clocked ~40mi on an ‘empty’ tank before engine completely ran out of gas. So I know I have a little reserve distance.

Sunglasses or clear safety glasses. ear plugs birkin ball cap (Tied by a cord to the harness anchor) wind wings help with buffeting (full helmet makes long highway drives comfortable)

Thanks John & Croc BirkinDirect & Tom to the rescue once again. He has them in stock. Better price. And certain to be the correct part.

If you need one I have a spare filler cap/neck…. I replaced it with one from Newton (which i’m very happy with).

While on a fantastic Blat with the local Lotus enthusiasts in the Hudson Valley yesterday my clutch went a little wonky (intermittently soft, didn't return, trouble shifting a few times). I topped up the fluid and got home without incident. Tonight I pumped it a few times: depositing all the fluid onto my garage floor. Since this is an engine-out repair I'd like to have parts on hand before pulling the car apart next weekend. The challenge is a replacement clutch... So far I've had no success finding a domestic source since Ford only sold that make overseas. Does anyone know of a domestic source or interchange part # for a Birkin annular clutch slave cylinder? I have part# <94ZT 7A564 AB> from Ford Mondeo circa 2010 in my build notes. cheers p.

Re: topic. Caterham & Birkin scuttles are not the same shape/dimension

Vovchandr: Congratulations, you’ll be missed. Croc: count me in

Fantastic news guys! I’ll see you in September p.

Check with Dr Hasegawa. Iirc he did some major maintenance about 8 years ago. Also if you can track down whoever has the yahoo forum archive?

I have 2.0 timing covers with & without the tensioner access ports.

I discovered a leak in my fuel hose while going over spring checkup today! Has anyone else experienced this before or have thoughts as to causes. take care and be safe out there everyone.

I think Croc had students put one through a wind tunnel once. Regrettably I don’t recall the results

Papak Here's what i have in my notes: (possibly from the former Yahoo Birkin group). outer CV spline is VW (into the upright) I hope this helps 1. Axle, inner CV joint: 357498201A Inner CV Boot Left. Audi 4000 83–87 VW Golf 92–01 2. Does anybody know from what car the outer CV joints of the S3 IRS came from? AUDI 80 (89/89Q/8A/B3) 1986-1991 SEAT CORDOBA (6K2/C2) 1993-1999 SEAT IBIZA II (6K1) 1993-2002 VOLKSWAGEN CADDY II (9K9B) 1995-2004 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT B3/B4 1988-1996 VOLKSWAGEN VENTO (1H2) 1991-1998 VOLKSWAGEN POLO CLASSIC/VARIANT (6KV#) 1996-2002 The application will vary in different countries but this should get you started in the right direction. 1. xxxxxxxxx: replaced his Outer CV boots with CarQuest /Advance Auto. The part number is CFD DX257, and it was about $15.

Thanks vlad i didn’t see this one. But you saved the day for me

Thanks for keeping us numpties safe.

Push car tires onto 2” thick pieces of wood to gain clearance for jack & lift points. Then raise car as far as needed. Reverse of process coming down.

Looks like you’re in my old neighborhood. We should talk registering…

1- Change oil & coolant. 2- Dive more than last year. 3- attempt to add lightness to nut behind the wheel.

Bad voltage regulator? (Once you’ve ruled out grounds) I was having nebulous issues a while back (can’t precisely recall the symptoms). Fixed by replacing the voltage regulator as everything else was checking out okay.

I have the narrow body Birkin and it's certainly a snug, yet comfortable, fit (Especially with 40cm wide Tillett). The newer wide-body "relaxed fit jeans" model is definitely worth looking into if you have a larger shoe size. Off hand don't think there are any in New England but it's worth sending a message to Tom Carlin.

Did you try on the narrow body or wide body Birkin?

VovchanDr How much consideration should be factored for geography as you alluded to? I suspect the car will have more cosmetic UV paint wear sitting in the Colorado high plains or new mexico vs. effects of the Maine woods, or humid gulf coast conditions... And that isn't factoring in possible road salt exposure in the norther half of the country. This looks like the start of an exciting & interesting rebuild.