wemtd

Check with Dr Hasegawa. Iirc he did some major maintenance about 8 years ago. Also if you can track down whoever has the yahoo forum archive?

I have 2.0 timing covers with & without the tensioner access ports.

I discovered a leak in my fuel hose while going over spring checkup today! Has anyone else experienced this before or have thoughts as to causes. take care and be safe out there everyone.

I think Croc had students put one through a wind tunnel once. Regrettably I don’t recall the results

Papak Here's what i have in my notes: (possibly from the former Yahoo Birkin group). outer CV spline is VW (into the upright) I hope this helps 1. Axle, inner CV joint: 357498201A Inner CV Boot Left. Audi 4000 83–87 VW Golf 92–01 2. Does anybody know from what car the outer CV joints of the S3 IRS came from? AUDI 80 (89/89Q/8A/B3) 1986-1991 SEAT CORDOBA (6K2/C2) 1993-1999 SEAT IBIZA II (6K1) 1993-2002 VOLKSWAGEN CADDY II (9K9B) 1995-2004 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT B3/B4 1988-1996 VOLKSWAGEN VENTO (1H2) 1991-1998 VOLKSWAGEN POLO CLASSIC/VARIANT (6KV#) 1996-2002 The application will vary in different countries but this should get you started in the right direction. 1. xxxxxxxxx: replaced his Outer CV boots with CarQuest /Advance Auto. The part number is CFD DX257, and it was about $15.

Thanks vlad i didn’t see this one. But you saved the day for me

Thanks for keeping us numpties safe.

Push car tires onto 2” thick pieces of wood to gain clearance for jack & lift points. Then raise car as far as needed. Reverse of process coming down.

Looks like you’re in my old neighborhood. We should talk registering…

1- Change oil & coolant. 2- Dive more than last year. 3- attempt to add lightness to nut behind the wheel.

Bad voltage regulator? (Once you’ve ruled out grounds) I was having nebulous issues a while back (can’t precisely recall the symptoms). Fixed by replacing the voltage regulator as everything else was checking out okay.

I have the narrow body Birkin and it's certainly a snug, yet comfortable, fit (Especially with 40cm wide Tillett). The newer wide-body "relaxed fit jeans" model is definitely worth looking into if you have a larger shoe size. Off hand don't think there are any in New England but it's worth sending a message to Tom Carlin.

Did you try on the narrow body or wide body Birkin?

VovchanDr How much consideration should be factored for geography as you alluded to? I suspect the car will have more cosmetic UV paint wear sitting in the Colorado high plains or new mexico vs. effects of the Maine woods, or humid gulf coast conditions... And that isn't factoring in possible road salt exposure in the norther half of the country. This looks like the start of an exciting & interesting rebuild.

I'm not sure about caterham. I replaced my Birkin windshield this fall after one too many rock chips & cracks. Just brought the windshield/frame to my local[good] glass shop and they custom cut a piece of laminated glass & reassembled. Good as new but without the defroster wires. IIRC: Another forum member did the same thing a few years ago after an errant rock on track shattered his windshield.

I'm also using an odyssey PC680, but in a colder climate. current one is dated 2018 and is beginning to need a charger if not driven within a month. otherwise it works well but my understanding is a trade off of 30lbs for a few years of battery life. [It also comes out in the winter and goes on a trickle charger] Congrats on the car! p.

https://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/

Anker: Just in case this helps: from the Locost forum <http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21081> 1) Chicago Driveline Alsip IL 60803, 708 385 1900. They built my custom driveshaft when I swapped rear axle. Fast and efficient, cost $209.79 2) Just a guess but I would imagine that any good automotive driveshaft shop will have the capability to ID what you have and rebuild your half-shafts.

Is there a source of custom half-shafts in the US? {calling Tbox56 or the Locost folks} At the rate I'm going this month I'll have one fail sooner or later.

There is also a ‘tall’ roll bar from Birkin. It that’s not tall enough I suspect they could make you an extra-tall. it’s very easy to swap them

Everything I've touched this weekend has broken: this afternoon the seven's starter motor died (again). A similar failure occurred about 3-4years ago (motor spins but pinion doesn't engage flywheel). It's the stock/standard duralast ford focus starter for my 2L duratec. I do have a Odyssey battery. I'v been lead to believe this is a solenoid problem, does this sound correct? Is this just bad luck or is there something I should check/fix that could be causing this to prematurely fail? thanks.

I have haltech as that was original setup I got. My unit is now obsolete but I’ve had good experiences with support (Oz office remotely logged into my car to help diagnose a failing ignition module). I think many cat’s have SBD systems. Some folks have good experiences with Typhoon? ECU last time I discussed with them. I’d give some/nominal consideration to tuning ability/interface since we are often engineer-types: (Can you find someone to tune a turboencabulator & can you further modify the settings)? My tuner does what he can and has advised: do this/that to further fine tune cold start settings… where there are limited attempts to set values at 30’F.

I agree. Sounds Dodgy

have you checked to see if BirkinDirect has any on hand? i think i got one with my chassis that's in my attic now.

Many thanks to Mike & Tom (as well as everyone who came to make it an amazing sevens gathering) just arriving home now I’ll post this end of the weekend shot of the die hards - Not pictured is the groundhog sunbathing in the driving line at turn 2. Luckily for the little critter we both managed to avoid it.