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JohnCh

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Everything posted by JohnCh

  1. I think that is a pressurized system. Raceline uses the same thermostat housing in its water rail. It's designed so the overflow port which feeds the expansion bottle is only open to the system when the pressurized cap hits it's limit and the base retracts. Otherwise it is sealed. -John
  2. Did you see the trailer @Brightonuk has for sale in FL? -John
  3. I've dealt a lot with Raceline over the years. Peter knows his stuff. I'm sure it will be a fantastic engine. Calling @Vovchandrin case your engine does go up for sale and his engine issues prove insurmountable. -John
  4. Please keep the details (cam specs, dyno sheets, etc) coming. This will be fascinating to watch. From the comments it sounds like Raceline is building a new engine in the UK, then shipping it over? If that's the case, are you keeping your current Zetec as a backup or selling it? -John
  5. Welcome Gavin! Have you had a chance to put any miles on it yet? -John
  6. Not sure why your photos are attaching that way. They are uploading as .heic files which is an Apple-specific image file format, but when testing an upload from my iPhone which is set to that format, images work correctly. You may want to try again or save the photos as a .jpeg first, or PM me and I'll see if I can help. -John
  7. I just gave him a 5 which bumped it by about 1/2 star ( @Vovchandr where do I send the PayPal request?). This tells me very few people have rated it thus far, so if someone hovers over the stars to see if it will show more detail like Amazon has trained us to expect, and accidentally clicks over the first or second star while doing so, we'll see swings like this. The only way to avoid this is by disabling the feature. Personally, I don't see much value in a thread rating on a forum like this and a quick count shows only 3 of the last 30 threads in the General forum have been rated -- interestingly two of those were started by @Vovchandr. Hmm... I don't think disabling it will be missed. I'll start a poll late to get input. Now back to Vlad's possessed engine. -John
  8. @Vovchandr I think what @Croc means is: -John
  9. @Vovchandryou won't know what you need to replace until you start taking things apart. This is particularly true in your case given the history of various engine-related maladies. Based on your comment that you are a few weeks away from pulling the head, I'd start thinking long and hard about your budget and determine if you approach this experience simply as a painful repair, or as an upgrade opportunity. If it's more than the head gasket, things can spiral out of control pretty quickly if you let them, so good to apply some rigor up front to define your desired end state and how much you are willing to deplete your kids' college fund to get there. Also, remember that if you make any performance changes -- and swapping to a higher flowing head is a performance change -- you will need to remap the ECU. Given the Pectel is pretty old and requires a version of Windows that is literally from last century, I'd give serious consideration to getting something more modern as part of this experience. -John
  10. Well that progressed quickly! Sounds like you will end up with a beast! -John
  11. After nearly 15 years on this forum, I guess I was bound to guess correctly eventually Glad you got it sorted and hope Murphy gives you a wide berth going forward. -John
  12. @Crocyou can -- and likely will -- try harder than that! Yesterday when looking at the map, I discovered the lean condition down low was user error. Somehow when building out the map last year, I accidentally left the cells in that rpm range at load site 15 (full throttle) untouched from my previous map. Adjusting to a tiny bit richer than the corresponding cells at load site 14 as with the rest of the rpm range should sort that out. -John
  13. @Angelo, that's one hell of a sales strategy! Anyone want to write the ad for my Westfield next summer? Glad to see this car has stayed in the community. -John
  14. Welcome UglyFast (great name BTW!). In addition to Twitter/IG, do a build thread here. Great way to get help along the way from people who have been there/done that/ have the scars to prove it. Any more details on the 2002? Is that a 32/36 Weber? -John
  15. I believe Westfield ceased iRacer production quite some time ago (it was released in 2013). However, I did hear rumors within the last two years they are working on an electric road car. Given the 2030 edict in the UK, I don't expect Westfield, Caterham, Morgan, and other UK-based fun car manufacturers have much of a choice. -John
  16. Is this the answer to the question "who bought Angelo's car?" If so, congrats! -John
  17. Revisiting this thread after nearly 10 months because the car finally made it to the dyno today! The shop, Vintage Racing Motors, focuses on building, restoring, and maintaining vintage race cars, including some very, very high dollar stuff. As a result of this work, they frequently put the same engine on both the engine and chassis dynos so have a pretty good feel about parasitic losses with their specific Dynojet. Byron felt 18% was correct for my car. It may be right, it may be wrong, but interestingly, using that number results in nearly the same output I expected to hit given my exhaust, which is sized for my older 210hp engine. That system should cap out at about 225hp. Peak number at the wheels today was 184hp which converts to 224hp using an 18% loss. More importantly, the curve looked great. Yes, there is some torque to pick up below 3500rpm by richening the mixture, but it's minor. The power curve is billiard flat from 7000-8000rpm, showing there is still some upside at the top. Might be the exhaust, might also be the 45mm TBs are a little small. Cam timing could also help in that range, but would come at the expense of the bottom end. Regardless there is some headroom available for future upgrades that don't involve opening the engine. I'm happy and finally feel confident to really drive the snot out it. The red line is where we started, the blue is where we finished. It's hard to read the rpm scale at the bottom, but the run spanned 2000-8000rpm. On the way home I was behind a Tesla 3 Dual Motor whose driver decided to show off shortly after the light turned green. He then tried it again as we merged onto the freeway. I don't think the result of either event was what he expected while driving his invincible Tesla -John
  18. It's a great topic for the article section. I'll work with @Croc to get something up in the near future and collectively we can update over time. -John
  19. Nearly 6 weeks after placing my deposit, I have a build slot from Caterham: the week of February 6th. Add in manufacturing and shipping times, it sounds like a late April delivery provided everything goes smoothly. Given they usually don't for me , more likely sometime in May. The plan is to start ordering various parts over the summer and assemble the engine in the second half of December. Much earlier than needed, but I generally take that time off from work and it ensures plenty of buffer in case things don't go as planned (see earlier comment). -John
  20. My guess is there is no power interruption, but it's good to rule out things that are dead simple to check. Assuming power remains steady, I'd be inclined to focus on what's been mentioned by others and add some related things: When checking the CPS for tightness, make sure the gap is within spec Examine the trigger wheel and make sure no teeth were damaged when removing/installing the engine With the engine running, jiggle the connectors on the CPS loom to mirror vibration. It's possible a wire or connector was damaged when removing the engine. It won't hurt to jiggle other parts of the engine loom for the same reason. If none of that works, and it's easy to get to your ECU, you might want to detach it from the car while it's running, hold it in your hand and see if it still cuts out. With an old ECU there is always the possibility of a micro break within the circuit board that opens from heat and/or severe vibration. Given the sudden onset of this after an engine removal, this does seem a stretch unless you somehow managed to damage it during that process, but..well, Murphy's Law. -John
  21. When the engine cuts out, does power to the rest of the car remain on or flicker? -John
  22. @cemaykan check out this thread on CatKong, which you may have seen at Bruce's shop. -John
  23. Sorry about the cone incident, but glad to hear the car met expectations. Great video! -John
  24. I can share my opinion as someone who has owned Westfields for 20 years and who recently put down a deposit on a new Caterham. I think there are a few things at play. Westfield, for reasons I've never quite understood, has never gained a strong foothold in the US. Elsewhere that's not the case. According to Westfield they've sold 13k cars since '83, which isn't too far behind Caterham. If you visit both the Caterham and Westfield club forums in the UK, you will see the latter has a very substantial and active user base, and like Caterham, has had a race series for many, many years. In the US, there are very few of us. Fewer cars means less awareness and brand enthusiasm, which in turn impacts resale value. Westfield does place more of the onus for quality on the builder than does Caterham, which also plays into resale value, however, I'm not sure that is a big percentage hit on cars in the UK. Yes, a used Westfield is less expensive there than a similar spec Caterham, but so too is a new one. Regarding build quality, I've seen some Westfields that were noticeably inferior to a Caterham, and others that were their equal. Lastly, higher spec, well-built Westfields rarely come up for sale here. Most of them seem to come from the mid to late '90s, and build quality back then was more...variable. My initial car was built by the US distributor at that time for magazine tests (he liked to build the cars), and let's just say I was not impressed; magic marker cut marks were visible on the body, interior panels weren't installed as per the build manual, alignment was not done well, etc. My current car is at a completely different level, but as some here can attest, I'm anal and picky -John
  25. You mentioned in the Tillett thread that you spoke to someone who worked for your car's former owner. Have you asked him if the car had similar issues back then? I wonder if you are simply having bad luck or if you are chasing old issues. -John
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