Dave W

From the photos, you do not see any detonation on the two plugs. Which might mean the condition is for a very short period. Tip coloring indicates slightly less timing needed, back off 2 degrees. The single plug show very rich at idle and lean at WOT. The best indicator for WOT is at the base of the ceramic. You need a clean throttle chop, while de-clutching for a good plug read. Dave W

Seb That's bad news, melted plug electrode pumped thru your motor, cannot be good!! Is it possible that the squish band directs a stream right at the plug electrode. Do you index your plugs? Is it always the same cylinders or position of the electrode in the cylinder? I would look into going with a retracted gap plug, at lease on race day. I have never run them on the street, they probably would not last very long, but better then a new motor. If you have a killer "CD" ignition system you could try surface gap plugs Dave W

Cheap insurance is to carry a bottle of octane booster when on the road. I've had good luck with Klotz and 104. Dave W

You are asking for a hell of a lot in frame and suspension dimensional consistency, to be able to use the same shims for all SV or Standard frames, in setting up for optimum handling. Do it right, it will only take a couple hours. Set up a frame center line. I used fishing line. Set a straight edge or another line at a right angle, and adjust both front and rear wheel setbacks. Once that initial shim(s) is set, you then go to caster and then camber settings. I would also make the frame center line marks permanent. You may need them again in the future. Dave W

Take a new sharping stone "that is level / flat" and carefully smooth the rusted surface on the block. It will only take a minute to correct the surface. I use the same process around each of the block head bolt holes, that pull up slightly from the dock surface. Dave W

I'm is South Lyon and always up for a blat! For good local roads, check out North Territorial and Dexter Trail starting just north of Gregory and for a slow tour try Huron River Drive, it's posted at 35 MPH. There are several other good local roads, but typical for Michigan the road surface is $hit. Also careful on Huron River Drive. Ann Arbor is 6th in the nation for speed traps. Dave W

If the in gear does not work, you may be able to lock the flywheel thru the starter opening. You will need a 2nd person, or method to expand a wedge tight between the flywheel and against the housing.

That small blemish in the real world probably would not cause any issues. It's the bluing marks on the lobes which indicate a high heat condition. What is causing the high friction? Cam profile, oil or possible oil passage blocked, lifter bucket, possible break-in procedure, machining error ? That's the million $$$$ question. First, try by eliminating what it is not, starting with the easiest possibility first. Dave w

If you look at the wear pattern on the lobes, they are not consistent from one lobe to another. Typically they appear to be simular for any given cam profile. Could actually be the cam grinder did not do a second spark out on the profile? Dave w

Check you valve lifter buckets. Do they rotate freely? Dave w

I would check for debris in the threads. If that is not the issue, then I would try Permatex thread sealant # 80632. This is the type of sealant used on engine bolts that go into the water jack or crank case. Does not harden, so there is not a removal problem. Dave W

If you have a steel oil sump, you may want to extend the skid plate under the oil pan. There is a good chance that the object you contact will not slide across the pan, but actual crush in the bottom of the oil pan. See photo of extended plate added for sump protection, which cover the bottom of the oil pan.

I would visit locostusa and find a member close to your location. He/She should already have the tooling to form the aluminum channel. They should also be able to direct you to a local glass shop that can cut the safety glass from your template. I'm on my 2nd windshield an both pc's were less the $100. If you want a 1st class windshield frame they can connect you with a supplier that has aluminum extruded channel with the outboard corners radiused. Must builders set the glass in rubber Vs glue, and use screw Vs rivets for the assembly. Dave W

There is also Grattan and Waterford tracks close by. Dave W

The caliper alignment and or mounting bracket is not perpendicular to the disc. If it is not a lot, you just need to bed in the pads. But I would first check the mounting bracket bolts. You could try re- torque the bolts, while some one applies brakes. Torque up in sequence. If that does not solve the issue you will probably have to shim. Davew

You could try adjusting the push rod at the master cylinder. That might give you enough extra stroke to reduce the clutch drag. As long as you have 1mm of free travel before the push rod contacts the piston you should be OK. Dave W

Thanx for posting. That was great!!! Dave W

I think with the colder weather, you will find that it takes FOREVER to get every thing up to temp with the oil cooler. If you drive much in the colder weather, consider the Mocal temperature by-pass. Before I install the by pass, I made a block off plate, with a hinged section. It allowed me to open a 1/3 of the cooler area, by flipping up the section with a long screw driver thru the front of the grill. Dave W

My current 14" Federals have a tread wear rating of 260, A,A. Dave W

I'm using 595's on my Locost, and very pleased with them. The selection of 14" summer tires was pretty limited. The plus for me was that I can get them locally if there is ever a problem, since I do not carry a spare tire. I did have a set of Yokohama's A048, and the federals are much better. I'm running Federal 14" 185-55 @ 19psi. I would also check out Ar1 or NS2R, Nankang if you have a local distributor. They are only slightly higher then the Federals. Dave W

Sorry But I'm having a problem with the .2 volts? Valves typically stick open not closed. When cranking the engine over can you feel if either cable is getting hot. Is there a solid engagement sound from the starter solenoid. Dave W

Time to get the VOM out and check the resistance on both the hot lead and grounding cables to the starter. You do have a grounding cable connected right to the engine? Dave W

Disclaimer, I have never even seen a stalker! But that sounds like way to much difference in preload between RH and LH. When corner weighting my Seven, I was only changing 3 out of the 4 preloads by about 1/4 to 3/8" range with one corner around 1/2". Do you know your corners wts. DaveW

I had the same type of issue with the drivetrain after pulling the engine/trans. One of the mounts ended up being pre-loaded, after re-assembly. Try loosing both engine mounts and trans mount. Then physically move the power train back and forth plus run the engine up and down the rev range. Tighten every thing back down and take a test drive. Dave W

You my be seeing cavitation at higher rev's. If the engine is not over heating, slow down the water pump speed. Dave W