MV8

In general, a dial caliper and tape measure (for determining the old rate) and a coil over specific spring compressor (for installing a softer rate, longer "free length" spring) are required but you may not need any of these tools. Details are important for deciding what rate is appropriate for touring. Springs are universal and cost around $100-250/pair depending on the vendor and coil diameter. An adjustment to the coil over damping rate can also cause a rough ride. Bigger wheels, tires, brakes, and higher rate springs usually weigh more and may require more damping and/or rate to control this unsprung weight trying to stay in constant contact with the road. Depending on how similar your car will be to your buddies tourer, you may be able to use the same rate springs. Deciding what to buy is the hard part but a bad choice can be reversed easily.

Ready for arts and crafts? Anybody can make them if you can make the patterns by direct measurement or test fit cardboard. Trying to reinstall cut off brackets is a lot more work. It is much easier to make an accurate pattern for each piece out of cardboard as if it were metal. Cereal box or pizza box works fine. Plenty of that to practice with until you get the hang of it. The cardboard should match exactly what you want in metal. Do not try to drill perfect holes in the CB. Hold the CB parallel to the actual brkt on the axle, then mark the CB through the holes in the actual brkt. Wobble the sharpie around to try and make a circle on the CB that you can find the center of. You can also fit the hardware in the actual brkt to make an impression in the CB. Once satisfied with the CB fit on both ends of the axle that the hardware will fit perfectly, measure the thickness of the original brkts. I suspect the flanges to be 0.125-0.185". As for the spacers, good close pics from various angles and dial caliper measurements are needed for all the od and id. I can make them if you don't have anyone local but it can only be as good as your patterns and dims. Frankly, it isn't that critical since the hardware is just a clamp. Nothing is spinning or precisely reamed. Speedway motors sells all sorts of universal brkts for 3 inch axle tube. When ready to remove, a cutting torch or handheld bandsaw can get most of it followed by an angle grinder. A friction disc will take a long time and will still need grinding.

Seems like a good time to move the pads on all the pedals up to where the ball of your foot is with a shoe or sock on. Don't see any benefit to an up stop on the throttle but it could also be for that.

I'd be surprised if a kit exists though I have seen reinforcing kits. The damper/arm brkt clamps on with ubolts. Maybe someone with one can provide a few measurements for the brkts and the A frame attachment. Chima's car has a great looking attachment that looks lower than original. http://www.britishracecar.com/CraigChima-Lotus-Seven.htm

That would be a busy weekend to be back on the road Monday. You might want to do a quick compression check for variation and check that the timing marks line up with the crank on tdc and the rotor pointing to #1 in the cap. Head gaskets, block decking, and head surfacing/milling for a flat surface and/or higher compression can retard the timing and reduce valve to piston clearance. It can be corrected with an adjustable cam pulley or head shims.

Agreed (though I'm sure with a half-day of practice your brazing would be excellent. I prefer a rose bud tip). For comparison, there was a complete, still assembled/rolling S3 on the San Francisco craigs list a few months ago asking $7k. I half expected to see a utube video of it being driven around a yard after a weekend of tinkering.

Looks like it's all there but awfully expensive for a basket case.

Might try a flat or semi-gloss, uv clear before installation to slow down the fade.

That looks like an "interference" capped branch designed to reflect waves in a phase to improve cylinder scavenging over a broader rpm range. Definitely old school/forgotten tech.

I'd pull the engine and trans together with the hoist and a harbor freight leveler to help with the angle, then separate out of the car. Drain the trans first. If you have 3-4 inches of clearance between the crank pulley and the chassis where you could slide the engine straight forward then lift, you may be able to pull just the engine or just drop the trans if there are no integral cross members below the trans and the trans mounts to a removable cross member. Consider new trans input and output seals and greasing the ujoints.

A low profile scoop that snaps on to the top of the windscreen to direct air down behind the windscreen would have a similar effect without the heating. An acrylic or polycarb panel between the head rests would help too. I expect an S2 or S1 would have much less buffeting due to the narrower rear wings.

Howe #3424: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325413522890?hash=item4bc4284dca:g:x48AAOSwdHljZ4kr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KczOMDOD0pXdzdnWrTlaKsBf%2FVY%2BqI94bFvAOCWa6nmwvtDcxUo26yitsqcnbtSsgPQGcFHl59DUM%2FdRKAOIoVpWw47EHW5sLl30TFqDURMbFnzj8GXYu83fDJPiLL68FPJ5J8IGNI1ajXxlYqxdNLzl1zvDiezRf%2FFz1oIc54Ykr51KtML3ZdiR2h0Q1FTtzdgnpEWqiHMwfuolTu5EmHPEkqXY0r77JV949J06%2BSR1A1n%2FxDyvp9BJrk5lma3difcAMLRyAMUFnfyPDYrISyjkkEHr%2FjgisPqgm58zYF5|tkp%3ABk9SR-KxpYerYQ

Unfortunately, single carb models are hard to find and the fiberglass bonnet scoop to clear the air cleaner is not readily available for converting. It seems most were "upgraded" to dual carbs. Here is an S1 ("road" trip?): https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/lotus/7/2474818.html

Dan, let me know if you need me to find the right type of crimper for the C835 plug terminals. It isn't the standard red-yellow-blue color coded type crimper.

It sounds like you want a 61-68 S2 chassis and narrow axle/rims/wings with the 1600 crossflow, referred to as a "S2-1/2". If the axle holds up, it sounds ideal. It might be feasible to fit early style wings on an S3 with narrower, S3 bolt pattern wheels.

The 1981-2010 switch has six pins and the other has four. You'd need the mating socket and socket pins to use either switch. The pins may require a special crimp tool if they come bare with no wire crimped on for splicing. You may need to buy an instrument loom if they don't offer the hazard pigtail portion. It would also take some time analyzing schematics for both but you can use any switch with enough extra effort. I suggest carling switches, where you can have any option, everything is available, the crimper is not expensive/proprietary, and the switches are very durable. Typically used for high-end marine applications.

It should be the same.

The seller may have those parts. My understanding is that technically, the Seven started being a Caterham in 1973 (S3) and not a '60's S2. The info I have indicates S2 and S3 should both have a 32x10 windscreen and the same attachments. The screen assembly is available from CAT in the USA but it will still be some work: http://www.beachmanracing.com/windscreens-and-wiper-parts S2 and S3 chassis differences are fitment of the wider track ford axle and full length exhaust mounting.

I think any, mass produced sealing washer would benefit from annealing. Better sealing at lower fastener torque. Like anything mass produced, there is a tolerance so the dims will vary.

SCAM. Anybody can create an advertisement for something they don't have. Plenty of classic sevens out there that are available in-person from folks with valid id matching ownership. https://www.simplesevens.org/2138/2138.htm

2mm is unusually thick. Dorman sells a copper brake washer 10 pack (HW9453-10) that is listed as 0.393" x 0.67" x 1.63mm or you could try washers made for 10mm brake banjo fittings.

I believe the rear is an Avon ZZS 245-40-15.

Turns out I have a 24wx25l and 24x30 with the standard horizontal rib roof that uses standard 5 rib, 3 foot wide panels. I found there are a lot of places that have the roller for forming the galvalume panels (comes in a big roll in all the normal colors in either 26 or 29ga) to custom length at a cost of about $2/linear foot (half the Lowes and HD box store prices), so not that expensive to fully enclose what I have and fit take-off garage doors and a new entry door. I think I may order another 24x25 but fully enclosed and framed out for two 10wx8h doors and a 3x7 entry, then fit my old 24x25 frame against it and reskin for a 24x50 that is half garage, half three sided carport. The panel have held up very well but since I'm taking the carports down to move, I don't care to fill all the holes that probably won't line up again when assembled on a proper slab. Too many options make me a "deer in the headlights". I like the idea of the quonsets but see the issues. The tube carports have been great for my climate. I found these Wayne Dalton garage doors at Lowes that are perfect for my needs. A 16x7 is about $250 where the next step up is over $1000. They are only an inch thick; made of a steel and foam core composite so very light. I expect the springs are not as good as the standard door so I will grease everything well and set the spring tension on the low side. Similar idea in vinyl and sheathing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pez_69LkldQ How the door goes up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgE-hPXz3iU

I anneal them too if I need to reuse them; using a hand torch and hanging the washers on a piece of stainless safety wire. I was in the same boat initially, thinking of ferrous metals but I didn't find any difference in hardness from cooling methods. I quench because it is so much fun (I take it where I can get it).

Hi Kevin. It's been sold again but the seller or the listing agent may have contact info available. Not sure how old the listing is. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/882296/1966-lotus-super-seven-for-sale-in-scottsdale-arizona-85260