MV8

If one arm is bent, you can have a fab shop use the good side to make a mirrored arm. They may be able to rebuild the bent one.

There is a driven gear to engage the output shaft that comes in different tooth counts/colors to match the axle ratio and tire size to turn the cable 1000rpm at 60mph for calibration, a drive gear housing to hold the driven gear and seal the opening which needs to be an adapter with threads added to engage the angle drive, a fork to hold the housing on the trans, then a 90 degree angle drive box. The only special part is the angle box. I don't know what they normal driven gear tooth count is or if there were different ratio angle drive boxes used. The driven gears, housing adapter, and angle drive are shown on this page: https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product-category/ford-2000e-gearbox/gear-box/page/8/ Domestically, angle and straight ratio changing or rotation reversing boxes are available for custom ordering but would probably require a custom driven gear housing adapter to install.

If you'd like more info, check out the motortrend link posted above. I don't think ford originally installed vac adv on the kent for emissions or mpg. Chapman decided not to connect it for whatever reason. Ported vacuum instead of full manifold vacuum to a vac adv is the result of emissions compliance. Running more advance (without pinging) is a driveability improvement up to a point.

The carb type is not a factor. The right answer is whatever you want to do. Good enough is just that. This is not a race.

No old covid mask to strap on the front for temp fix? This car (and filter) has been through a lot with the PO(s). It looks like aggressive cleaning and possibly a passer-by poking his fingers in there (neighbor's child named Dennis?). Unoiled makes the filter less effective but has no effect on foam wear. No damage from ingesting the small amount of missing foam, but you could fit screens to the trumpets if it is a concern. Foam filters normally are fully supported inside and have a protective mesh over the top that would have prevented this failure. Piper cross is a supplier for a replacement but likely just as delicate. Borla makes a well designed carbon air box but that is all it is and would put the filter outside the bonnet. I'd make a K&N type (unpleated if keeping sausage shape) replacement. I'm surprised nobody is making one for this.

I'm definitely not a points man. I was a diehard XP fan until it was total incompatible for web use. I prefer an oem type distributor with vac and fly wt. If there is no direct fit oem electronic application to retrofit, I would use a drop in point conversion retaining the fly and vac. Here is a pic of the internals on my chinese mopar distributor. The china vac adv was junk/leaking, breaker plate clip broken in three pieces, with rust everywhere and no grease (mostly cleaned up in pic for clear coat and grease). My point in sharing is the simplicity. I used a $10, 70's chevy HEI distributor internal 4 pin module/amplifier on a chunk of aluminum as a heat sink. If I were trying to make the most of sidedraught with no common manifold across the cylinders to provide vacuum, I'd drill the boss built into each carb manifold to press in a 1/8 brass or steel tube for a vacuum port, tee them together and connect to the vac adv. I've not seen any lotus dual sidedraught intakes that did not have the prevision cast into the manifold on one runner of each manifold. The vacuum tubes are available with a bead from companies that repair carburetors (see link) or one could buy tube stock from a company like mcmaster and turn as needed for a light press fit based on the hole made by the drill size and/or use a retaining compound (maybe have a machine shop do it). Rotary file the inside of the runner if the tube protrudes. Another option would be a 1/4 thick shim base for the carbs that has a port, so no mods but the carbs would stick out another 1/4 inch plus an extra gasket. One could completely hide the ports by drilling the bottom but then fuel could leak into the vac adv when not running.

A pretty good explanation imho: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1607-tune-your-vacuum-advance-for-better-drivability/

No, I'm saying it is better for an ignition system to include manifold pressure when adjusting timing, just like oem efi and carb systems. Most stand-alone ignitions do not. It's just another thing to consider. Some electronic ignition systems are a drop in replacement for the points but still a fly weight and vac adv (if installed) system. Some lock the flyweight and vac adv or use a distributor from an efi application that has no fly weights or vac adv, set the total timing by rotating the distributor body, then retard electronically based on rpm input. The mid-60s and older vac adv used manifold vacuum, which could be a port (not "ported" vac but full vac at idle) on the carb or directly on the manifold. Closed throttle=max vac adv, full throttle= zero. Completely separate system from the fly weights. Fly wts act on the shaft. Vac adv acts on the breaker plate.

Might be a good time to check the vac adv for leaks and hand pump to see how far it rotates the breaker plate on the base plate, clean and lube the fly weights and springs, then checking how far it is set to rotate and how easily against spring pressure. Note, the degrees of movement at the distributor will be half the degrees at the crank. A protractor and divider are handy for checking. I'm thinking this is a pre-ported vac design ignition so full manifold vacuum, pinched off for setting initial timing, fly weight tension enough to stay pulled in fully at idle but however far they are pulled in, rotation of the distributor compensates at the expense of total timing (inital plus fly weights only. Vac is it's own system). These electronic systems are no replacement for vac adv unless they have a map sensor and a shunt to lock it out like older oem efi systems.

FWIW, I'll share the MX procedure for what a similar but mass produced design entails for replacement (not a unitized hub assy like most cars). Could be helpful to others trying to remove and replace dedion bearings without picking up a hammer. I guess a North American sierra factory service manual would be most applicable?

The problem with one-piece, led fixtures is the leds cannot be easily replaced unless you have some electronics and precision soldering skills (I do). Leds do fail individually and production quality varies. Most commercial trucks use leds now as a replacement for incandescent with same size and GA aircraft are allowed to direct fit / replace incandescent with leds in a same fitment bulb config (no wire gauge or fuse changes to match as the operator may need to refit an incandescent enroute in a pinch or simply following MX instruction, but I digress). I've noticed many commercial trucks with bad leds in a cluster. The fix is to wait until enough fail so the value for intended safety use is questionable or go ahead and replace the fixture; usually for a lot more than a led bulb. I love leds in a bulb config for incandescent fixtures for shop lights, tail lights, interior lights, instrument clusters but have been disappointed in headlight performance short of a servo controlled projector; enough to go back to H4. I don't go for higher equivalent wattage out of consideration for other drivers despite loop hole provided by antiquated FMVSS. Led bulbs in an incandescent fixture usually results in a better performing, higher quality assembly. The led chips are arranged as needed to mimic the incandescent pattern they are designed to replace. The more lumens, the better but the additional heat at the board means a shorter life. Fork lifts have very similar if not identical appearing lights to traditional Sevens. Each fork lift mfg has a little different design. There are some all led fixtures that have amber, clear, and red. I have some I bought for a project a few years ago but have not done more than test to see if they work. Not for sale, but let me know if anyone would like to see pics or want measurements. Just another consideration. We can talk about led headlights as well. I have box full of different designs I've tried.

A flanged ring around the tube to drip over, supporting ring under the cover to keep it from being a low spot? A pic might help.

Quite a range of head gasket thicknesses available for the pre-crossflow. I wonder if it was a just a gasket change. Pushrod length would need to be taken into account but you could drop that down to a non-ethanol pump friendly ratio and tweak the static timing if needed. https://www.cometic.com/applications/automotive/ford/pre-crossflow-ohv-kent/15l--0ci15l-i4 As for 100ll, it's still a lot of lead compared to auto fuel. Generally a credit card machine and grounding clamps but somebody would need to show you the procedure once for filling your cans. Another issue is the actual percentage changes with the season and filling of the station's in-ground tank. A busy station is safer.

Also, an ultrasonic cleaner is nice to for that parts that will fit in it. The screws for the butterflies are probably staked so if trying to reuse the screws, you'd need a new way to lock them that is fuel resistant.

I don't think the vent hole is too small but it my be blocked internally. Blow air into the filler port and feel for a breeze at the vent. You may be able to remove the vent cover with the trans installed. I'm thinking the front face of the main case is leaking into the bell mating surface. If the vent is clear, maybe there is no gasket at the bearing retainer. Since it is low, you might as well pour it out and compare the flow/thickness to the 80wt going back in. You might also spray a little ospho or other phosphorus metal prep underneath to stop the bare metal from rusting, let it dry, then rattle can rustoleum clear so it wont be solid rust by the end of the season. Nice thing about matte clear is you can't see the overspray or just spread the leaked dope all over until you can deal with it this winter.

2000E/ "Bullet": https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-2000e-bullet-gearbox-guide.html Looks like all your leak is from the front around the input shaft. I suggest pulling it to replace the seal. You could pull it and with the slip yoke installed, use a rubber tip air nozzle to blow a little air into the vent and enjoy the show in the bell. May be leaking around the rails.

Should be 2.1 US pints (0.95 liters) 80wt. It could have something thinner in it to reduce parasitic loss for racing or an additive. I'd look for a vent on the tail housing in the web above the speedo drive.

I spy an adjustable temp cooling fan switch with remote sense capillary tube. Looks like a lot of effort was made to ensure things don't get rubbed the wrong way, but the clutch metal braided line appears to rub the oil tank. Three inches of fuel hose split lengthwise and placed around the line would fix that.

Yesterday, I replaced the wheel bearings on a car with a virtually identical hub design. There must be a small spacer ring that slips over the hub tube that is positioned between the inner and outer caged bearing assemblies. After installing the races, caged bearing assemblies, and seals into the carrier, the hub tube had to be installed. To do this, I used a one foot 7/16" threaded rod (1/2 inch is more common to find and may fit the arbors), a few washers stacked for more thickness and a standard home construction, low grade/strength nut on each end. I selected arbors from an aluminum bearing race and seal installer like the one linked below that would fit well yet press against the caged bearing inner races ONLY. The threaded rod made assembly very easy and perfectly aligned everything; no hammering. If the spacer ring is left out or is too thin for the bearing tolerances, once the rod is tightened (with minimal effort), the hub won't rotate easily or at all because the caged bearings are clamped too tight into the pressed-in carrier races. The threaded rod lets you know what will happen when you install the axle. This should be a check if there was a factory manual for service. Selective spacers should be offered due to variables in the replacement bearing tolerances / clearances. Steel driver sets are better but this is what I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/300930042361?hash=item4610d409f9:g:Z~wAAOSwM4xXYI40&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFaYjr2V6l1cWgL%2FxFeoTOUhVLqFyiZYnTrcfWuNJJFi4ggJ6mFDslPrCtdV2xdWRFiMVDOI%2FvO1gBMAHj9kbMJpOAgGT%2BLoP3DaWggZ91w2%2FhY7O1m6qpt%2F7e6rLumPxcgrIRWF8EPAqCuRQakyZZqmns1pLI4ds5IqPaEVwnBfFmmvJ%2BM7cX7qAtdmeuV%2BDTr%2F1zi%2FBpyH9lMwoXpJ4cpJ9HZk3vetshSMwQ6XPrPz%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5aa8troYA Better: https://www.ebay.com/itm/393110706383?hash=item5b873958cf:g:fugAAOSwyd1gENjO&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsN%2F1NGB%2FtROLlCa5vNUiz8GvJ%2BCV3mS3ObuHLuoly1wrz5n0ryCGKSqzhzz2fonlzMyV%2FC0vxqNQXpyqLEElFJXyiJCPko%2BfbhHIKFZGqlDjVmHtqC5zfkf7lDJfOhXIt4UmNwzbGKIunwEAtTqWZ0F8Yw9r7ajC25EO%2FeVS22y%2F2YOFgPhIH6yn7Y9uqn60gSxSgCzPNckpk38QXcrDY7ONqKMnVeI6GZpchdLRfrCU%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6qa8troYA 7/16 threaded rod (home depot, tractor supply, lowes, online, etc): https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=threaded%20rod&refinement=4224552713&view=List I think I found waldo in one of your picks.

Ditto. I would expect at a minimum a carb cleaning, balancing, adjustment, and vacuum leak checks at the carb mounting gaskets. Some as-is/rough pics all around would be nice. Use non-ethanol fuel if available. Check the cap for crusties on the terminals and rotor to clean or replace. Check plug wire resistance or if labelled carbon, replace with spiral core inductive.

The ebay marine type sender I linked to has a flange od of 2.75" with the five bolt circle approx 2.25" (quick checked with a tape measure). I said nudge with a resistor but since the range of the marine unit (0-190) is outside vdo specs (10-180), one could add a stop (black nylon zip tie, hose clamp, .050-080" aluminum strip bent around to form a clamp with fingers to form a float seat, etc) to reduce the travel on both ends, so the gauge doesn't go too low or high. No need to install the sender in the tank to figure out what it needs to be. The nice thing about the marine tubes is that no electronics are exposed to the fuel/ethanol/water with an inductive float.

He must not have sought or followed sound, legal advice. Those are the rules in NJ. Imho, to avoid the penalty for offering it for sale, he could have reinstalled the parts removed and had it inspected. Then if the equipment was there but it didn't pass, he'd should be off the hook for the penalty and in the same boat as any vehicle failing to meet emission requirements (i.e., pay so much to repair at that point (not to reinstall equipment) then get a pass to register that year). Getting rid of it by destruction, giving it away to someone out of state, or moving doesn't change that they appear to have him just for offering it for sale (up to $5000 penalty). To avoid the penalty, he must comply. Failure to comply and his actions since the prelim notice will likely have an impact on the actual penalty amount. This is about offering it for sale. I refuse to enter NJ for a number of reasons. Now I have one more.

I'd look for a 10-180 ohm in 200mm or consider swapping the gauge for a sweep more common to marine use or a 0-190 nudged with a resistor. If it were 0-90: https://www.ebay.com/itm/384881309274?hash=item599cb6b65a:g:ia4AAOSwAiRie3G7&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsC1a4UoyP8AinGvzK5kTFshAupATZBfB0FubHQoezV5D4IQlU3yKwxLKurT9XpwuFRdpLOzwJYSZ5GAxuNN4NGmhQ8qr6NICjUgex%2FbYWFaZhr%2FPbXpiwdmruHliYoNKLgCU1x4Dk0oKrklxAf6%2BENNRbMvmjc29RYUfYLc%2B0%2BXPZat3WiCzbjvBvZusnDz5Jm%2FFafc3bcxWbJ4MJd9qS9x091udz3RQAHGdUJQxRyhb|tkp%3ABk9SR_yk3MTnYA https://www.ebay.com/itm/134213812640?hash=item1f3fc441a0:g:9KwAAOSw2LljDIhn&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8C7BGO6LO1PDx0xEZQSMENqp7FPPYGtjSxMuJqgBQDLPw8i%2Fs3PxN1wpMnIqGgzye234IFII0r5k2NCzqvwUkk5XL5xnkPyU0ftG89BFqiG25M%2B%2Fweg4%2F3OuCNdgQ8G077PRrlpbqqJ7T3sES%2Fzvhati5CYxWPP75d5VOkcPJ9Wtjek2OKA4UMzhZpdIzCtjzXo7UvLpBMjg9C2g19vfa6SZ4nXQUE9eS1bMbCMv7pEQFUhpOfcwx5Z2rlW0XCk13ebhgzLBwUywlLqiWLy0wkQvv%2BWeDGIk4Ws8MU%2BRH4F7FhQ9s3uqFgLZooOKCVLT4Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Tkk8XnYA

I believe your '03 uses the older engine and sensors. The newer sensor is very long and drop into the center of the head.

I didn't mention that since it this was for a direct replacement, but I've converted to a stainless tube sensor. It primarily depends on the gauge ohms sweep, tank depth, and minor tank mods to the opening. I'm guessing 240 ohm empty, 33 ohm full for an old Smiths? You can check this with the old (semi-functional) sender removed from the tank and a dvm to check the ohms at the travel extremes. Or, you can temporarily fit a 1k potentiometer between the sensor wire and ground. With the key on, rotate the pot knob until it reads empty then check the pot value with a dvm. Unplug to read full (or vice versa). I think the sevens have a six bolt flange of unknown (to me) bolt circle where most tube senders are five bolt.