MV8

Looking at the available information, generally, for the TS function, flasher output (typically LGK coded wire) is through the hazard SW (LGN), then the hazard relay (LGN), then the TS SW (LGN) to the left (GR) or right (GW) with the extra wire in each terminal going to the tach for an indicator. The flasher has constant B+ and is always ready for a load. The hazard relay is powered in RUN. Switching on the hazards bypasses the hazard relay so it will work with or without the key. This is a best guess.

I think Caterham has been tight lipped about schematics since 2015 which only hurts customers while doing nothing for their bottom line since the schematics are not offered for sale. The "right to repair" is it's own subject. I think the DCM is probably just a way to build a single harness for all dash options and not the problem. How about a pic of the relays installed? The sockets for the relays and flasher are standard five pin orientation. The flasher has three pins and will fit in a relay position. It is possible you have the hazard relay swapped with the flasher.

What happens when you try the ts sw in the config they sent a pic of? I'd request the main harness schematic that includes the hazard and turn signal systems, check the operation of the hazard sw, and check the wiring arrangement of the hazard switch against whatever reference you are using. Can't read your email links to R and S gauges.

They must have factored in the expected inflation rate between now and delivery. How many clowns does it hold? Just kidding! Imho, good engineering from what I can see from the cheap seats.

Thanks. I think originally the 636 and 2030 were from a very light duty, narrow leaf spring vehicle as the press-in eye bush and migrated to an industrial part when the supply dried up. It is not hard to find similar sized eye bushes but the length is always at least the width of the narrowest, currently common leaf springs today at 1-3/4 / 44.5mm. An actual "bushing" (versus essentially a round motor mount that can twist a few degrees) that is free to rotate would be much better; easier and cheaper to replace. An experienced machinist could quickly (cheaply) turn plastic inserts to fit with flanges or thrust washers from about $20 worth of rod stock and a set of spares while he's at it and no wear to his tools or a short production run. I don't know if 3d print would be suitable. Burning out the rubber is the worst part.

I like the old S8 for obvious reasons.

I'm sure you will figured it out.

Is it 1.25? I would expect 1.75 or 1.5 in aluminum but I don't know.

Y9: MGB 62-80, Midget 61-80. Other PNs: 8G621, QHY9, 282-305 636: A universal type part rather than an oem. Called a "bonded torsion bush". 2030: Same situ. Sometimes double bonded, sometimes peened/crimped around the outer ends. With each replacement, the press fit is a bit easier and could get to be too easy. Knurls on the bush or loctite green retaining compound may be a good idea. Instead of pressing in new, I'd probably heat the old bushes with a hand torch until the rubber popped out, leaving a smooth shell and inner sleeve, then machine nylon or delrin tube inserts and fit uhmw thrust washers. Otherwise, with so many bushes, there isn't much to be saved when a full set is under $150 when bought here.

Ditto. It is just a clamp for the bush inner steel sleeve bonded into the bush and will not move around if the bolt is tight. Had the bolt been a stronger grade (no head marking?) and/or had rolled versus cut threads (a possibility with specialty hardware along with softer material easier/less costly to machine) then you probably would not have a diff out right now. I see no other reason for the bolt failure with such a corrosion-free diff.

It looks like GM #90411542 (PR313) may be a suitable replacement. Compare to what you have as far as fitment and 42-43psi operating pressure.

I think you'd be much better off with a common m12-1.75x85 in 10.9 or 12.9. The oversize shank doesn't make the m12 threads any stronger. It is essentially a shoulder bolt like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/97713A124/ Versus something much stronger like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/91502A253/ The bolt is just a clamp for the inner bush sleeve. No need to be super tight if you have lock washers, serrated step washers, lock tabs or safety wire to prevent loosening. If the threads get damaged, you might consider taping for 1/2 inch instead of a m12 helicoil.

Wrap holds moisture on the surface (less of a problem for garaged, fair weather vehicles) and the insulation raises the temp too high that results in eventual flaking and pipe failure. Wrapping generally voids the warranty on headers. A similar result can occur from only coating the outside of a header but a header that has reasonable wall thickness (16ga or thicker) and is coated inside and out should be able to handle a layer of wrap. A blanket or shield with a riveted on mat over the top where air can still flow underneath should be fine. Many oems do that.

Forgive me for covering anything you already know. If you make a new cover, a same thickness cover or separate starter shim will probably be necessary. If after running, the starter pinion does not release the ring gear, the starter is too deep in the bell. It seems likely the new sump touches the cover only at the lowest point on the pan and it would be hard to tell until you start dimpling. A shallow dimple in the cover would make it fit both pans and be hidden. If you are concerned the cover may spread from the dimpling and no longer fit, the cover could be clamped around the edge to a few strips of bar stock or angle iron before dimpling. You could drill the strips to utilize the bolt holes for clamping. For fabricating, if you don't weld, consider a flat lower .050" steel sheet cover that comes up to the pan, a flat upper .050" cover from the crank to one inch below the pan, then use 1 inch x 1/8 or 1/4 aluminum bar stock as a spacer and bolt together with 1/4-28 x 3/4 machine screws and nylocs with the heads facing the flywheel. You can probably get all that at home depot. Make patterns that fit perfectly from cereal box board before cutting any metal. If you are going to hammer form, don't trim the lower edge and drill to fit the bolt holes until after you have the necessary offset/joggle in the panel.

Rooster, don't you know the safest plane and pilot is on the ground? HA! If safety were actually first, we'd all still be walking. I should have said props with defects or better yet, tell a story. I always see potential aircraft and car projects then remember how many I have stored away and unfinished. Never enough time for it all so I enjoy the moments. They can let it all go at the estate sale. You might enjoy British Top Gear Season 15, Episode 6. They tour the remains of the Jensen and TVR factories. An interesting mix of funny and sad. For the sake of humor, they literally throw together a Caterham as fast as possible in Season 8, Ep 7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOxHV6QfJkg End of thread hijack.

Imho, old props look good over a fireplace mantle.

Another option would be to pull a fiberglass mold from the steel dust cover, then layup a carbon fiber replacement and notch it. Add some washers and blue loctite or safetywire. Is it also sandwiched by the starter to the bell?

Of course, what keeps oil from moving up usually keeps it from returning to the pan. I could see the benefit of a filler plate across the rear to keep it from moving up the back of the engine during accel, or a crank scrapper along one side that shears oil from the crank, or a mesh screen windage tray, or trap doors around the sump similar to what you might see in a fuel tank, but I don't see any benefit to adding this plate, imho. The original piece is better if this is intended as a replacement for that.

I suggest you take the removed diff to an automotive machine shop so they can remove the broken bolt and clean/chase all the threaded holes while they have it, verify the thread size and pitch. It is easy to make the problem worse by breaking off hardened extractors in the hole. Use copper anti-seize on the new grade 10.9 bolts and shanks. Make sure the new bolts are not too long and bottom out in the diff. Adjust with washers if needed. I'd add a split lock washer and regular flat washer. Mcmastercarr is a good source for hardware.

It comes with a slotted baffle sandwiched by the pan side bolts.

It looks like the glass is custom made for Superformance, so they may be the only source for a replacement. I assume it is laminated glass and not coated polycarb.

Also, http://www.beachmanracing.com/suspension-bushing-kit-pre1990-dedion $127 from USA. If out of stock, just search for "Caterham parts USA" to see many options to check.

So yours is the opposite of this '81. I doubt the bell matters except for possibly the depth available for setup of the HRB. Extra space can be shimmed but too little is more difficult. I'd rather have an external slave setup for easier bleeding and replacement.

I just stumbled across these chaps: https://www.3jdriveline.com/webshop/gear-kits-and-boxes/ford-type-9-5-speed/gear-kit/ford-type-9-straight-cut-close-ratio-gear-kit/ Looks like you may have 2.39 1st. I'd find a used merkur box and try it out, then go through it if you're happy with the ratios.

Set the wrench lower than the end torque so you know it is clicking properly.