Car lifts

[wemtd]

What are people's experiences, thoughts & recommendations regarding lifts? What should I avoid, good models for our cars, other factors you didn't consider until it was too late?

I have a relatively small garage but may have enough head room to accommodate a four post lift. The intention is for ease seven maintenance, but primarily for storage/car stacking as this would be easier, faster, more economical & etc than expanding the garage size. 

 

 

[MV8]

Thoughts:

Deep, large area, concrete footings with fiber and rebar hooked or welded to the J-bolts (versus blind anchors) are a given. I would not consider a two post or just swinging  arms for a cradle (which should engage both sides) for when things go wrong. An adjustable mechanical limit pin in the towers to prevent ever raising it too far for the car. Ratcheting locks that engage as it is extended so it cannot drop far from a hydraulic failure. Not air actuated which invites moisture inside (hidden rust). A single diagonal tube on each side from the top of one tower to the base of the other on that side would be nice.

[locost7018]

Avoid scissor lifts imho. Great for changing tires but in the way for anything underneath the car. Russ

[spitfun]

I love my 4 post lift. I bought the smaller version (7000 lbs.) as I don't lift larger cars normally. I can lift the front or rear with my large 4ft. jack stands (see pic) to remove wheels. Best thing I bought for the garage,from working on it to waxing it,no more bending over-everything at waist height!! Rich

Edited August 21, 2022 by spitfun

[11Budlite]

Paul, check out this video on my son's 4-post lift: 

 

 

 

I just talked to him and he'd be willing to show it to you if you wanted to stop by. Lmk and we can work out the details.

Edited August 21, 2022 by 11Budlite

[MV8]

Great video. Along with the correct wiring for the amps, another thing to consider is changing to a NEMA approved plug and outlet for 30amps@110vac to prevent plugging in normal equipment in the same outlet and operating in the safety margin for the 20a plug. It may pull more amps after there is some wear and more friction. There are several configs including an RV type plug. It may be tempting to use a 220vac plug/recep with 110vac due to the improved capacity but it would be too easy to damage anything that may be plugged in down the road as well as against code.

A 220vac system is a better option when 110vac amps exceed 20 so you'd need to rewire anyway. The amps are half as much, allowing a smaller, lighter motor design.

I made an impulse purchase of an unusual plasma cutter that came with a standard 20a 110 plug but is designed to pull up to 29 amps. A 220 machine would have been a better choice. To use the 110/29, I made a dedicated circuit and swapped to half width breakers since the 220 feed aux panel in my home shop was full. Converting a few dozen 2x4 fluorescent fixtures to LED was a nice upgrade.

Edited August 21, 2022 by MV8

[Stevensonjr]

I bought a narrow Bendpac lift, to fit my shop. 12’ ceiling, locking rachets, air switching(. air conditioned shop) electric over hydraulic.

[BirkinBernie]

On 8/20/2022 at 9:46 AM, MV8 said:

Thoughts:

Deep, large area, concrete footings with fiber and rebar hooked or welded to the J-bolts (versus blind anchors) are a given. I would not consider a two post or just swinging  arms for a cradle (which should engage both sides) for when things go wrong. An adjustable mechanical limit pin in the towers to prevent ever raising it too far for the car. Ratcheting locks that engage as it is extended so it cannot drop far from a hydraulic failure. Not air actuated which invites moisture inside (hidden rust). A single diagonal tube on each side from the top of one tower to the base of the other on that side would be nice.

 

My general thought is, if you have room and can afford it, do it.  It is a game changer if you work on your own cars.  I even use it for waxing the cars so I don't have to bend over. 

 

The arms on my two post lock in position once you start to lift, they are not just swinging arms.  There is a bar across the top of the lift connected to a switch that stops the lift if the car touches it.  As the lift rises, ratcheting locks click off, and you always set the car on the locks after lifting. 

 

I have a BendPak XPR-10AXLS two post rated for 10,000 lbs.  If the concrete meets the lift manufacturers specifications (the minimum for my lift is 4.25 inches deep, 3000 psi concrete) and you use the approved concrete anchors, j-bolts are not necessary. 

 

I chose a two post over a 4 because I use it for working on cars, not storage.  I chose the particular lift because it is one of the few I came across that lift high enough for me to get my 6'4" self under the car standing up straight.  With a minimum pad height of under 4 inches, it will lift the Birkin or my '65 Cadillac just fine.  If storage is your goal, a 4 post might be the best solution - car is on its wheels, and loading is easy - just drive on.  It will all boil down to ceiling height and what you plan to use the lift for.

[IamScotticus]

Interested in this as well.

I would need to fit a lift in a 2 car garage that wifey will be parking next to.

So, it must be narrow, 8ft, 4 post and not an eyesore so it will be NIMG (Not In My Garage) proof.

Maybe I can throw a tablecloth over it

[sltous]

I have a MaxJax.  This was the only 2 post lift I could get in under my ceilings.  Each post has five anchors glued into six inches of concrete.  A little annoying to maintain bleed between the hydraulic rams but otherwise really nice and it uses positive locking ratchets so the car is resting on steep pins not the hydraulic rams.

[SENC]

I have a kwik-lift and have been very happy with it - it gets the car just high enough to work on and under comfortably (on a creeper), and is easy to drive on and off so I keep either my Elan or Seven on it all the time.  It is a great fit for a small space that can't accommodate a hydraulic lift.  I glanced at their website and it appears they aren't making them right now due to high steel costs - but I do see them pop up for sale used from time to time.

[Bartman]

I got an Atlas Garage Pro 8000 4 post lift last June and I love it. It came to $2883.43 delivered. I assembled myself without help, which, to be honest was a bit of a challenge as it comes flat packed and each section in darn heavy, but with an engine hoist, a few furniture dollies and a bit of swearing I got in into the garage and assembled. I chose to have the 120v pump and I have not had any issues with it at all. I am not lifting and lowering multiple times a day though. Its a simple setup, 1 large hydraulic ram some steel cables and pulleys and that's it, it does have the safety interlocks so my usual process is to raise the car to the height I want then lower and allow the locks on each corner to engage.  I will never go back, being able to stand under the car to attend to whatever issues and with the added benefit of having two cars in one spot is great. I keep the Caterham on the floor and my Europa on the lift and switch out as needed.

 

[Chopd65]

I've had a Bendpak 9000lbs 2 post symmetrical lift for about 15 years. I built my garage to accommodate it and had the concrete tested for depth and strength before ordering. I installed it with the help of a friend which took about 8 hours over two days. I bought the two post because I do much of my own maintenance on my "specialty" cars and help some friends as well. I've had everything from my 7 and my 71 Challenger to a 3/4 ton Ram extended cab on it without any trouble. I've done everything from engine swaps to Jeep lifts and am quite happy with the purchase. That being said, the majority of the time it is used for storage, mostly for the Challenger, something a 4 post would be better suited for.

I think that the clutch replacement surgery that I performed on the 7 last year would not have been as easy if I had the 4 post.

It can be a pain lining up the arms for the 7 since it is sooo low and at least on my Caterham I need wood blocks in the rear to keep from crushing the flanges for the floor. 

I would buy the same lift again.

 

[John B]

I had two BendPak HD9 4-post lifts in my old house and loved them. They're great for storage and also working on cars from underneath. The sliding hydraulic jacks are awesome. You can lift the car and remove wheels. We moved and I'm going to build a Man-cave / barn at the new place and will go with BendPak's again.

 

 

 

[Alex-Ks1]

in my shop if needed I have a 5,000 lb forklift, I had fork extensions made to lift the 7 in the center. then I can move it anywhere. Even outside if I need to .

I works very well for my APP.  If need be I can lift it 14 foot up LOLOLOL. I only used this a few times, the shop is large and can hold the 2 delivery trucks were converting and 4 other cars 

[coffee break]

 

I've been using this 9000# lift for about 10 years. The floor is 5.5" thick. The 7 doesn't need to be on wood blocks to be lifted.

[JohnCh]

This thread took a major drift.  I've moved the conversation about long-term storage and suspension bushings to its own thread in the tech section:  

 

[wemtd]

Thanks John

I’m really enjoying the input & educational tangent everyone has contributed thus far! 
I’ve scheduled a visit with a lift to check measurements &etc.and the primary concern right now is the short ceiling in my garage.

[BlakeJ]

I've been using a MaxJax lift for about 8 years now, with no issues lifting everything from the Seven to crossover SUV's.

It lifts about 4' (cars taller than the Seven won't raise as high) and fits within my 7'6" ceilings. 

The awful pictures are intended only to show how a tight space can still accommodate the lift.

[MV8]

I've seen examples of blind studs pulled out and cars fall from the arms not being locked because the angle did not allow the pad to line up where it needed to go. Details in assembly and use are important. I'm sure wise, careful folks with mechanical ability should be able to use them safely. The neighbors kid fascinated by shiny objects that move, not so much.