CarlB

Powerflex makes sway bar bushing. They are not the ones Caterham uses, but they should make the bar work a little quicker.

I use a similar device to the one Croc is using in my shop, and I have one of these in my truck after spending $1000.00 in repairs to replace wiring. AmazonSmile: Loraffe Under Hood Animal Repeller Rodent Repellent Ultrasonic Rat Deterrent LED Strobe Lights Keep Mice Away from Car Pest Control for 12V 24V Automobile Truck RV, Rodent Defense Vehicle Protection : Patio, Lawn & Garden Both work

I respectfully disagree. 6 cylinder engines that rev up and 12 cylinder engines have a special sound to me.

I wish I could have been there to drive, but I also missed the live sound of the F-1 car. But I am disappointed we do not have a video of the BMW. As close to a V-12 Farrari as you can get.

Great video thanks for sharing!

These are for doing wheel alignments. The square part at the bottom is a scale (sold separately). The idea is you can eliminate any inaccuracy of the wheel, and access for making adjustments is easier. When you use string to set the toe you can use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tire for a little more accuracy. To scale a car, you need to at least set the tire pressures. A better method is to measure and adjust the diameter of the tire. Wheel stands are already exactly the same height. Most pro racing teams use this method. The ones above called auto dollies are not the same thing. They are for moving the car around the shop.

You are getting some good advice. If you can go to NJMP you will see everything. I believe it would be well worth it. I am 5-11 and 210. I do not believe you will have a height problem, but I would order the lowered floors. Sitting lower relative to the windshield is an advantage. Everything said about width is true. I would add that if you make it to NJMP there is a big difference between the leather seats and the fiberglass seats. I have both and use the fiberglass seats on track. The leather seats are very comfortable for me. You will not be able to drive the car in wide shoes. The foot box is small and probably the biggest issue. my shoe size is 10.5 D and I can drive it around on the street in street shoes. I wouldn't use wide tennis shoes. The pedals take some getting used to.

So, what is the big development that will be announced?

Here is the pin out for my ECU. I assume it is the same as yours. I looked around for the name of the company Quicksilver gets connectors from but can't find it. If you need some connectors, I will get the name for you. ECU Pinout Zetec T-2.pdf

Yes it is the intake air temperature sensor.

To verify, you are correct, here are two pictures of my connector and senser. This is just a throwing parts at it solution, but you might want to replace the crank position sensor and look at the wire from the sensor to the ECU. Those sensors put out a square wave form and are difficult to test. The best way is with an oscilloscope. It isn't a strong signal, and the wire can pick up interference. When you posted pictures of the engine missing with fire in the intake, that could be a timing issue on those cylinders. Is the overheating happening only when the temperature under the bonnet would be the hotter than normal? If that sensor or wire are getting overheated that could cause your problem.

I haven't driven a Ariel but I suspect it doesn't drive as much like a go-cart as a Caterham. I raced go-carts. The handling is heavily influenced because of the solid axle. You drive a go-carts of the rear tire. You drive a Caterham of the rear tire. Generally independent rear suspension cars are driven off the front wheel. BMW had a driving experience I got to go to. They had pro drivers as instructors. My instructor ask me if I had raced go-carts because I drove the car off the rear tire. Then he tried to correct my driving.

My wife of 53 years is do good. With 11 screws and a plate, I guess she has more titanium parts than anyone's Caterham. The 9th of August is a good and bad day. It is our anniversary and the day she had breast cancer surgery and her ankle put back together. So far two of the three turned out fine, I am confident this one will as well.

It is highly unlikely I will be able to come. My wife broke her ankle a week ago. It was set and the swelling is down enough for it to be operated on tomorrow. She doesn't see the surgeon again until the 24th. Missing two things I was really looking forward to. This event and going to Octoberfest.

There are two companies I know can help you. One is Quicksilver Race Engines (301-698-9009) Speak to Eric. The second is Franz Diebold (540-808-2918) Franz works on all the IMSA and half the Indy cars. He also does real motorsport quality wiring.

I hadn't looked for the computer and and software sense it was handed to me when I got my car. I found the computer and it boots up. It is a Windows 98 /NT computer, and the software runs Dos. I never messed with it because Quicksilver is around the corner from me, and they know how to use the program. I can't get in the computer because I do not have the password. I will get in contact with Michael Dougherty. Hopefully he remembers.

I do not know much about it, but my car uses a Pectel ECU. I have all the software to tune the engine and I think I have a manual, but I will need to check. I would like to learn something about it and would be happy to share.

Other than the pictures in the original post, the pictures are of my car. We both have very similar cars. If I remember Bartman's car is a 2001 and mine is a 2000. The picture of his engine from the intake manifold side shows the motor mount. It is similar to mine. I will have a better look today, but the problem appears to be the engine is not sitting far enough back. The exhaust side mount points forward as well, but not as much.

Here are the measurements you were looking for and some pictures. The first measurement is from the back of the cylinder head to the fire wall 8 1/4 inches.  Here is a picture of the motor mount to the vertical frame member that has the lower rear control arm and the upper rear control attached to it. the distance from the vertical tube to the middle of the motor mount bolt is 7 5/8 inches I never paid any attention before, but we were talking about cars with Vauxhall engines, here is a picture of motor mount holes that might be for those engines. I only have them on the exhaust side.

I want to see how you stiffen the seats. I considered foaming behind the seats. Other than making a mess, that didn't stiffen the head rest. I got some Tillet FIA legal seats. They were a very tight fit and I had to remove some of the trim to get them to fit, but they are very stiff.

I wish I could drive a F/C car. I am 72 and haven't raced in way too many years. Leslie hadn't raced in 25 years and that was regular F/F. Three races back and he is turning competitive times. This past weekend he set fast lap in qualifying and finished second. Starting to get comfortable. Still needs some time for things to slow down.

I do not have an SVT. If the SVT oil cap is different my measurements will not work.

I have some pictures for you to look at from my car. I believe we have the same car. Mine is a 1999 or 2000 S-3 Zetec. I measured the oil cap on my car and got 3 treads in 7.64 mm. I think that is how you do it for metric. Imperial is threads per inch. Anyway, that would be 2.55 so I am guessing 2.5. Perhaps someone can jump in who actually knows how to measure threads. If your oil cap is at the intersection of the hood and the nose the engine might not be far enough back. Here are some pictures. The picture of the crank pully shows how low the engine should sit. I spoke to Gus yesterday about that. This picture was taken with a level on the camera, and the little tit sticking up in the picture is the jackstand the car is on.

Thank you - It seemed to be the way it should work, but I haven’t seen that before.

I have a stupid question. The parts did not come with any instructions. I am installing the 4 pot A/P / Caterham calipers and a little confused about the pins that hold the pads. They have a band for lack of a better term at the end of the brake pad pin. I assume that is what retains the pins. I assume you push them in and the band compresses and holds the pin. Is that correct?