MV8

More like "plug and limp" if it runs at all. You'd need a tune and the qualities of that can vary greatly. There are ways to tune oem ecus but it would be much more practical to install an aftermarket speed density (SD) ecu that supports everything you need currently from the oem ford mass air flow (MAF) ecu. To do it properly, you'd also need to tune every aspect for fuel and ignition for air temp, coolant temp, loading (hills, gears, etc) which takes a lot of time unless a tune is available. There are emulators, scalars, and data loggers to make the tasks easier but it is still a lot of work and down time when you could be driving. In contrast, carbs simplify and make troubleshooting easier but nothing is without a downside. I suggest leaving it as-is.

Here are some of my old pics of the miata intermediate shaft components. Note the keyed spline and injected plastic that holds the male section in the tube end. I turned the pillow bush id for a snug fit to the shaft so the bush rotates with the shaft in the stainless saddle instead of the shaft rotating in the bush. Much greater surface area against the saddle so it should stay tight longer/wear much slower.

The Spax G303/G305 are for Lotus '59-'70 series I/II/III and Caterham live axle '72+ but are not adjustable for ride height. The G775/G776 are. They don't provide the damper specs in the catalog but may provide that info with a call to the tech line. The spring ID may be different between the 300 and 770 series dampers. They don't provide that info.

Spax's site does not cross reference to the old part numbers. If you have new old stock to install, are the seats adjustable? With the 1-7/8"/1.9" id springs, 10 inch free length is the standard. If the rear lower seat is not adjustable enough to accept a 10" but the seat is removable, a sleeve can be made to slip on and raise the lower seat as needed to accept a 10 inch spring (I did this when adapting adjustable seats to my spitfire coilovers using a coilover kit for a honda). If you fit coilovers with an adjustable seat that accepts 2-1/2" id springs, 14" free length is available. These will work if you can adjust the spring seats to accept a 10 inch spring but I would strongly consider 2-1/2 id adjustable coilovers all around if there is spring clearance. You could have 2-1/2 just on the rear to satisfy the 14 inch length and subsequent eye to eye length. QA1 255SM10-10" are listed as 1-7/8 id, and come in 95 and 125 for about $68 each. Shot peened, double heat treated, and guaranteed to stay within 5% of the listed rate forever. Chrome-like powder coat. Eibach 330-188-(rate) has the same dims but the closest rates are 100 and 130 for $66 each. Red. Hyperco 444-10S has the same dims but the closest rates are 100 and 125 for $76 each. Blue. www.speedwaymotors.com

Those circuits do not actually run through the ignition module/amp per the '87 schematic. An alternative to the fuses 2/3/4-coil+ continuity check (key off) is to check for voltage at the fuses.

Most major auto salvage yards subscribe and list parts on the site. The nice part is they sometimes list prices, though they sometimes gouge for a "core fee". I always respond Oh, I didn't know you guys rebuild (insert whatever it is). They usually drop it but I don't actually argue about it. They decide what to charge. https://car-part.com/

There should be a double terminal at the ignition switch. One wire goes to the coil + and the other provides B+ to the heater, wiper, and radiator fan fuses. You can try reseating the connector on the ign sw. Note how much less the voltage at the coil is compared to what is measured at the battery. Use a digital meter (DVM). Make a 4-6 foot jumper tool with 16ga wire and alligator clips for testing when the meter leads don't reach.

Check for continuity between the coil + terminal and the fuses, key off.

The distributor and coil wiring is part of the keyed V+ in the RUN position, along with everything that isn't working. Did you check for V+ in RUN at the fuses or just check that the fuses are not blown? Have you run the engine since changing the distributor and coil?

With top and doors on, you might consider a cigar lighter defogger and a fused lead off the battery for no modifications. I think the electric grid demister would be ideal with aux wiring.

I believe there is either a 5.2 and 7.2mm wide bayonet arm. It could be you have a 7.2mm blade on a 5.2mm arm. Given your plans, you may want to remove the wheel boxes, motor, and cable/spring for greasing the cable and the spindles (if possible to get grease in there).

I've seen things listed as a joke, like trying to sell a neighbors eyesore. Didn't say it was actually funny...

SPACs were hot a few years ago but read the SEC filing to see if it "warrants" it (little joke there).

I had a '93 mustang coupe (lighter than the hatchback) in the 90s as a daily driver with a 2.3L lima four and T5. I visited auto salvage yards on a regularly basis look for treasure for upgrades. I fit cobra rocker skirts (different/better than GT skirts), GT front and rear skins, Thunderbird Turbocoupe axle, swaybars and springs all around (had to cut two full coils to sit at normal ride height so way too stiff), urethane bushings, a strut tower brace and the alloy 10 hole rims with blank centers and polished lip and caps like the cobra in your pic. Hurst shifter and an SAAC (Shelby America) replacement label sheet from Ford. Only club members could order an SAAC so they sold around 45 total if memory serves. What I had was essentially the lightest mustang posing as the rarest. I would get "challengers" regularly, to which I would hold up four fingers. I do have a few pics somewhere but it was the "Dark Ages", before digital cameras or browsers. I was collecting parts for upgrading to a Turbocoupe engine. SVO mustangs were always expensive and rare. My job had me on second shift, switched me to third one day, then downshifted me to second the next day. I fell asleep on the way home and totaled the car. A waste, but I still had my 80's 5.0l swb ford ranger.

Levante yamaha based walk around. Interesting details.

That sounds like a perfect donor for a Sylva J15.

That was around 2006 for an led third brake (https://www.signaldynamics.com/ ) and a controller (https://kahtec.com/ ) to flash six times then go solid.

I mention alternative oil pressure ports because the elbow bear the filter looks to have less than 3/4 inch of clearance. High torque engines on rubber mounts move a lot. Under load, the clearance will increase then when the throttle is closed the clearance will briefly be less than it is now (rocking on the mounts). Observe an engine during a chassis dyno run to see how much they can move under load. Revving out of gear is not loaded so it won't move as much. I'd plug that port and use another due to the frame rail issue and no clearance to spin an elbow or 45 and no room for a banjo. Another option is to add a remote filter adapter with a separate nut like this one (allows indexing the outlets) to the existing filter adapter or replace it with an adapter with vertical fittings that will need full flow, two-piece elbows that allow indexing. https://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+Products/074/22-593/10002/-1?msclkid=7aef6b152a1c1034cd3e08cea8d21ea3&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BSC - Non-Brand Searches&utm_term=4579397212853868&utm_content=Other Categories

There is more than one spot to tap into for oil pressure and one spot can serve more than one function with a manifold/tee. I guess you are talking about trimming the rack mount to clear the belt and not altering the rack location.

Unfortunately, the customer is at the mercy of the rebuilder/mechanic. I would require any parts replaced to be returned, even if I didn't know a crank from a cam. The parts can be disposed of at a local recycler. Doesn't work too well if you are not there in person but can offset selling replacement speed parts that either are not replaced or they keep the new or old ones. An engine is just an air pump. I've rebuilt a few different engines over the years for myself and have local shops machine as needed. I would expect about $800 in machining and cleaning and a similar amount in aftermarket/non-oem parts that I source. I avoid buying anything from the oem which makes a big difference in cost but not so much in quality. It depends on the part. Rebuilding an ITB should be no more than replacing shaft bushings for a couple hundred if they have to be fabricated from bush stock (mcmaster) and reamed. There may be an o ring groove if designed for boost. Otherwise each one leaks a little by design and it gets worse with the miles but I could not imagine any limited use cat ever really needing a rebuild. The leakage has the greatest affect at idle and they can be extremely worn without causing any issue with idle speed being higher due to the leak. Attached is a link to an average shop labor cost document for the zetec from engine rebuilders magazine. These are 2008 prices so you might add 30-50%. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/wp-content/uploads/Articles/05_01_2008/5220Ford20Lpdf_00000007265.pdf I'll add that it may not be apparent to some that a person would never need every process listed on the attachment for one engine. The general essentials are bore and hone, cleaning, valve guides, replace pistons on the rods if they don't float, surface head and block, machine valves and seats and maybe opt for a line bore, balancing, head assembly, freeze plug installation, and mag particle crack checking if a known problem with the parts.

That's Parker 801 push loc hose. Obviously pressure capable but the only hose they make that is gasoline compatible is FR221. It isn't push loc and is very stiff with a wire braid and made for 500 psi. It could be one of those situations where the 801 hose liner is compatible but they don't want to offer a hose that could be used for automotive or aircraft for liability reasons. Or, it could be that it isn't compatible but you won't know until it breaks down internally and clogs the injectors and pump sock if you have a return, burning up the pump. It is an experiment. I'd replace it with fragola or other R9 labelled push loc, or revert to a common type of push-on fitting and get your hose anywhere.

Rims with the right width, offset, and bolt circle are tough to find in the States. My understanding is the correct wheel for the front (and rear if not staggering) is 4x108/4.25", +et18 /4.21" back space, and 13x6. You might consider having them made to spec then have them painted: https://www.diamondracingwheels.com/index.php/racing-wheels/mini-stock-series I don't know if cat ever switched to hub centric hubs for rim piloting and I'd check the runout on the new wheels before installation.

The fragola hose is the good stuff and will be marked R9 (see pic) for EFI compatible. https://fragolaperformancesystems.com/product/ez-street-low-permeation-fuel-hose/ I expect the fragola is a lot more expensive. Any markings on the hose you received?

Just some food for thought: For an '03 Ford Focus, fuel pressure reference spec with key on and engine off is up to 75 PSI. The push loc fuel hose I linked to states 50 psi working pressure, that it meets R7 specs and specifically says not to use for EFI. SAE R30 tests burst pressure up to 250 psi for R6, R7, and R9 though working pressure is double for R9 at 100 psi, so I don't know where the 350 psi spec came from. How high the pressure might go with a failed regulator, line pinch, electrical issue (depending on the pressure control method used) in a fender bender depends on the pump capacity. If it lets go around a hot header, your done. Just fyi. Your choice. I won't say anything else about it.

That is good news. Where can I find push loc hose with a working pressure of 350 psi?