wemtd

I found that a newton filler cap lets me get the nozzle further into the car and doesn't leak when closed with a full tank

I encountered this issue also. My current fix was to enlarge the sensor hole in the aluminum plate to accept a rubber grommet from my local hardware store. The ATS snugly screws into the rubber which holds it in place without the need for a retaining nut. So far this is working for me.

I got mine from TMW. Practically speaking it may be easier to find a good welder/fabricator to ensure a good custom fit.

Mike I expect this could be an insurance in NJ vs. insurance everywhere else issue. My dd insurance in NHL was different than everywhere else

Bill The birkin should have a frame number in two places: the passenger side diagonal front brace, and i beneath the roll bar mount. Congrats on the new purchase Edit: - it looks like Bernie already replied

has several examples. The best price was through Amazon but required searching for the custom dynamics item#. So far i'm very pleased with my installation which made for a good weekend project: 1) drill two 1/8" holes on either end of LED for wires. 2) Feed wires down both sides. realize this is inconvenient. rearrange wires through roll bar to both come out driver side. spend an inordinate amount of time finding the right size weatherproof connectors. 3) solder all wires together so the connectors align and fit through the hole beneath my roll bar. 4) connect to wiring harness - And bob's your uncle.... please post your results when your done.

Hang in there, it's too bad these things can't be shaken loose with a nice blat

Have you considered a certain Duratec powered se7en in the for sale section?

ooh 6 tunnels, wish i could be there! Can you post (or pm me) the whole route? I'm hoping to come down to monticello in June and this would make a nice side trip (allong with Rt23 over high point). p.

Try checking: http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/ Or. http://www.europaspares.com. Catalogs I think both have a variety is choices including apparent stock switches. Or you could: 1) open up the switches and clean the contacts, 2) build your own superior replacements.

you guys are making me jealous. I'm stuck in dry dock until my new sump guard is done (hopefully this week). No guard = no drive on NE roads torn to pieces by plows. cheers.

if, for some reason Robert changes his mind i'll take the doors. p.

After finding Drew's post I mounted a Custom Dynamics integrated chmsl/indicator (ST6126ARACPT) the same way he did. So far it looks great, has a low profile, and is nice and bright! *it is much brighter when when the brake light is activated

Lancylad. What do you do about road salt this time of year? I've had some cold blats. But am afraid of salt

Blue Since you're starting from the frame up: one quality of life issue i've encountered was the stock birkin fuel filler cap: fiddly and leaky with a full tank. I replaced mine with one made by Newton equipment and have been very happy. Please post picks of your rebuild

Gentlemen Now that cold weather has arrived an odd engine problem developed when out for a recent evening blat (~30 F), not wanting to run above 3200 rpm. This started shortly after startup and lasting beyond coolant temp reaching running temp, but resolved ~30 minutes later. Beyond 3200 RPM the engine/ECU jumps to thinking the engine is at 16,000 rpm. After the rpm spike the speed drops (I suspect the rev-limiter is activated until the ecu thinks the engine has slowed down and the engine re-engages). This cycle continues if i maintain the throttle position: there is a loss of power and the RPM fluctuates between too fast and too slow. If i let up on the accelerator to re-establish an RPM below 3K everything is normal until i reach 3200 again (regardless of whether i do so quickly or gradually). Once well beyond full warmup this problem goes away. I don't think the issue is with the sensors because they both give similar voltage readings with data logging and think it less likely both would go bad at the same time. The fact that this issue resolves AFTER warm up leads me to believe it is not likely related to the air temp/coolant temp correction tables in the ECU setup. I am not sure if this issue is caused by a deficiency in my engine tune, cam/crank shaft sensor error, or wiring harness/connection/ground error? I suspect there must be a slightly off connection in the harness resolving once everything beneath the bonnet is hot. Any ideas (other than every connection) as to likely places to check? Duratec 2L Birkin, Haltech Sport 1000 ECU, ITBs, street use only Cheers P.

Here is my New England fall blat down to Massachusetts. No sooner than arriving, a gentleman jumped out of a car pulling in and made a beeline for me. He had an original (copy) lotus seven in Argentina 40 years ago! His biggest regret is selling his se7n despite it’s assorted bugs. Hopefully he’ll surf on over and get behind the wheel again. cheers. p.

Have you tried unplugging it to check for moisture on the contacts? My guess is it shouldn't (i'm still trying to dry out my seat cushion after my last long blat 3 weeks ago! but the engine and electrics are working ok) Regrettably i don't have a good alternative explanation. - If you are able to connect to your ECU can you log diagnostics/CPS pulses when trying to start? I'm able to do this with my setup and immagine it should confirm whether your sensor is giving you a wonky signal. Could you have water or a short elsewhere? IIRC my ECU won't even give a spark if it isn't receiving signals from cam & crank sensors. good luck

Youre hardware store is bettern than mine. Notes from when my mount needed replacing are: McMaster # 9376k221 M8x1.25

Ha! When I came home in the seven this spring no station's pump attendants wanted to pump my gas. Plenty of interest in the car and no problem letting me Pump

My experience is similar: I have a Newton aero style cap without any restrictors in my birkin. I've found orienting the gas nozzle more vertically is the only thing that consistently helps. I suspect the relatively horizontal orientation of our cars filler pipes trigers the auto-shutoff. Most gas pump nozzles out there have the modern rubber "boot" around the nozzle which only makes filling up harder. One station near me doesn't have these modern gas nozzle amenities. Consequently i am able to insert the nozzle far enough into my filler pipe to have a more vertical orientation which greatly helps. (and the aforementioned 90° rotation) Needless to say i only fill up there. cheers.

Mike. I'd like to compare to my notebook of facts & figures. Do you have the specific recomendations/measurements from BirkinUSA? Also are these for track use; what difference, if any, does road use/blatting about have for alignments? P.

Do you know if they allow a tail pipe sniffer or is a OBD error check also required?

Beautiful pics, where were they taken?

Mike I had a similar problem this spring after THOROUGHLY washing my car after a quick trip to have it inspected :ack:. When i released the hand brake lever the pads wouldn't fully release? My problem was rectified by spraying WD40 into the hand brake cable sheathes to lubricate the brake cables. Your car should be similar to mine: beneath your rear diff the cable from the brake lever connects to a linkage, and in turn to two cables (L&R). On these cables there is a an adjustment bolt . (adjust both nuts to tighten/loosen - i think its a 13 or 15mm wrench). Hopefully this pic helps: taken from above witout the diff mounted. (or brake lines connected). - regrettably technology is preventing proper picture annotation for you tonight. cheers P.