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Everything posted by bball7754
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I read this yesterday, and thought it was old news. 😊. More detailed perhaps, but old. 😊
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No real research required, the Chaparral 2 is burned into my brain from when I first saw it as the Cox and Monogram scale cars. This article resonated with me, and it even mentions the T70! 😊 https://www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/childhood-dream-realized-jim-halls-chaparrals-at-the-american-speed-festival/
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Car 66 is, I think, clearly a Chaparral 2. The exhaust placement is accurate, although the actual pipes may have been longer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaparral_Cars I think the intent of the painting was to show the evolution of race cars from 1944 to 1969, as CarlB stated.
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I had roughly equivalent damage with an off at the track, and I just used colored duck tape (wing is BRG) until I could get a replacement. Steve
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When third lights first appeared for Seven’s, it seemed that no one was drilling their roll bars and were attaching both the light and wires using zip ties. The reason, as I remember, was that if you tracked your car, it would fail tech with a roll bar that had holes drilled into it. As I disliked the esthetics of the zip ties, I never added the third light. And I realize that my safety should have overridden cosmetic concerns, but…..what can I say. 😊 So, I guess the “fail tech” issue was false, or the requirements to pass tech have changed? Or maybe it was just if you were racing, rather than track days? Oh, and the install looks great! Steve
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Did you consider Radtec?
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You’ve checked this out on BAT? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-lotus-seven-4/
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Maybe try a Google photo search? Steve
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I would give Scott Young a call about the clutch replacement. He’s a Tilton dealer, and can provide what you’ll need for 300hp. He likely will want to know what color springs are in the clutch as they define how much torque the clutch can handle. https://www.sy-gearboxes.com/ Steve
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This link was posted on ApexSpeed. Thought it was interesting. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/ I use Valvoline VR1 in the Caterham, and Brad Penn in the Mallock. Steve
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Just came across these, which are available for both 13 and 14 inch rims. https://philstireservice.com/shop/nankang-ar-1/
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I had only the orange front bar originally, and decided I needed an upgrade when someone told me they were enjoying seeing my inside front wheel in the air on some corners. I think in 1998 the orange bar may have been thinner, but not sure. It’s been a long time, but went up a step in front, added a rear, as well as added a limited slip diff. All were excellent upgrades in my mind. Having said all that, I think I still have more roll than many/most of the newer and track oriented Caterham’s.
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MV8- thanks for your input. He did change the dowels, I just assumed that the counter sink was to assist with placement. Replacing with the normal bolts and washers makes sense, as the bevel will only increase spreading force as it’s tightened. Guess I should do that on both sides, right?
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When I had the Crossflow in my Mallock rebuilt, I asked the engine builder to align the bell housing. When I picked up the engine, I found that he had counter sunk the top two mounting points of the bell housing, removing a LOT of material. Yesterday I was mating the trans with the engine. I tightened the bolts in stages, and then torqued them. The last one was the top right, and I realized I had passed where the torque point was but no click from the wrench. I stopped and looked, and saw that I had a hairline crack across the top of the mounting point, at which point I backed off the bolt. I have a race in two weeks. Cancel, pull it apart and get it fixed? Have no idea who could do that work, as after welding it would need to be re-countersunk. Liklihood of it getting worse if I race? Race and monitor it? I’ll get a better picture later today.
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I’m surprised the Raceline mounts create this issue. Have you contacted them? Is the custom cam cover (which I think is great) taller than stock?
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weather gear on trips? (where to put the doors)
bball7754 replied to Austin David's topic in General Sevens Discussion
Using soft luggage, I’ve just put the doors in the boot. I fold up the hood and slide it between the passenger seat and the bulkhead. This recently worked on a 3 day trip, even with a passenger. I brought the half hood too, but ended up putting on the full hood for a VERY wet day of driving. -
I just had my Rocket box refreshed by Scott Young, and give him a AAA rating. Website is: https://www.sy-gearboxes.com/ Steve
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What block, 711M? AX? Looks like a Scat crank, forged pistons, after market rods, dry sump, DCOE 40’s, light flywheel. I have the Kent 244 in the Crossflow in my Seven. Dual springs? Assume the CR supports pump gas? Looks like a great engine, solid 150+ hp spec I think.
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Congrats on the purchase, and assume this is Stuart’s/Jeff’s Seven. Quick google for vintage race car prep near Boston returned this: https://ktrmotorsports.com Not sure Ayer is truly considered in the Boston area, but still may not be too far from you. Steve
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So, does this mean I can only expect another 7 years of ownership with my Seven? We both bought our first Seven at around the same time. Of course, you cycled through them, and I’m still on my first! I will not be surprised if you end up returning to the fold, but glad in the mean time that you will continue to hang out here. Steve
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I bought a set of these probably 10 years ago, maybe more. They still look new. https://classicsiliconehoses.uk/wp-content/gallery/uploads/caterham-ford-xflow-1700-classic-black-r.jpg Steve
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I experienced the trans oil leaking several times, and then started to separate the engine before removal. But last year I purchased these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0U04G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used them when I I removed the engine in the Mallock last month, and not a drop of trans fluid leaked out. I was amazed, and pleasantly surprised. Steve
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In case you want a back up engine. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/cosworth-ybm-2-0/
